I'm more curious about the VIN issue that the actual problem at this point.
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I just decoded the VIN here.
https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder/Decoder?VIN=3fmcr9c61mra35262&ModelYear=
https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder/Decoder?VIN=3fmcr9c61mra35262&ModelYear=
Same. The VIN suggested by PTS pulls up, but I don't think it's his truck based on warranty history not matching up with his prior issues and the fact that VIN is for a truck not being driven, so it is not reporting data to the cloud since 5/28(see second screenshot).
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I checked the vin number on the car and I apparently made the mistake. The last 2 numbers of my vin is 52 not 62. Sorry as I have had an eye issue lately or a typing issue. lolI'm more curious about the VIN issue that the actual problem at this point.
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My mistake as the last 2 numbers on the vin is 52 NOT 62 as I wrote. Not only the car has issues but I do also. sorry
Ok, so here's the culprit. The last time this code was recorded reporting a hard fault was on 7/24. Notice the characters circled in red. That is the status byte of the code. If it ends in 8 like the green circle, is a stored code and not an active fault. If it ends in pretty much anything but an 8, it is an active fault.
The problem you are having is that when you take it to the dealer, it appears as a stored code. Due to the nature of this code, the issue causing it can be multifactorial. It can be a boost/vacuum leak, a bad boost sensor, wastegate, or even the turbo itself. Diagnosis this issue requires checking multiple components to determine which is failing under load. In order for the dealer to replicate the issue, they would need to put a heavy load on the turbo so enough boost is built up so it triggers the fault.
In many cases, the codes being reported are obvious and point to something very specific, but a P0299 code is a generic code that cannot be used to pin-point one specific thing. It needs to be diagnosed the old-school way with hand tools and not a laptop.
Because the code is not active when you take it to the dealer, they do not have a way to bill Ford for the diagnosis/repair. Assuming the components needing repair do fall under the 5 year/60k mile powertrain warranty, the vehicle is not meeting the conditions needed for them to bill the repair to Ford when you take it in. These guys are not dumb.....I am sure they saw the stored codes there. However, a stored code is not enough for them to verify a customer concern and get Ford to pay a warranty claim.
With that said, your truck has build date of 2/9/21 and has these two open recalls that it needs to be checked for to see if it qualifies. Recalls are attached.
It's nice to have someone on the inside. Should change your username to Deep (Tail) Throat... 
Not sure what that means, but if you're flirting with me, it's working.It's nice to have someone on the inside. Should change your username to Deep (Tail) Throat...
Don't worry, it's an exhaust thing, not intake. Not sure if that make it any better...Not sure what that means, but if you're flirting with me, it's working.
Hey! I also have a 2021 BS Outer Banks and have also experienced the same thing.
So... I've had 2 episodes of a powertrain fault where the transmission down-shifted suddenly, and the vehicle lost speed and power. The 1st time was at 70 mph on a highway (scary- also had vehicles on my tail), and it made a loud thud from the engine. I pulled over, turned off the car, found nothing wrong inside or out, and restarted it. The car was totally normal. No error code registered. The second time it happened was after transitioning from main road to a slow side street near my house. Same thud and loss of power, but that time a powertrain fault light came on. I got home, turned it on and off. Error code was gone, car acted normal. First time was around 27K mi and second at 30K miles.
Brought it into Ford for evaluation, and they spent 6 weeks rebuilding the transmission.
They can read the old codes even if they aren't active. (Sounds like your Ford dealership might suck more than mine if all they do is take it for a test drive.)
The notes from service tech on my invoice say that when the transmission was opened and flushed, a bunch of valves were stuck, there was was a bunch of debris inside, and the fluid was burnt and contaminated with clutch material.
Question for you... Does your car make a "chuffing" ticking noise at 1500 rpms? I had this happening ever since I got it at 14K miles. The noise wen away for 3-4 months after the transmission rebuild. I've put another 2K+ miles on it, and it's totally back. Which make me thinks the transmission is going to fail again.
So... I've had 2 episodes of a powertrain fault where the transmission down-shifted suddenly, and the vehicle lost speed and power. The 1st time was at 70 mph on a highway (scary- also had vehicles on my tail), and it made a loud thud from the engine. I pulled over, turned off the car, found nothing wrong inside or out, and restarted it. The car was totally normal. No error code registered. The second time it happened was after transitioning from main road to a slow side street near my house. Same thud and loss of power, but that time a powertrain fault light came on. I got home, turned it on and off. Error code was gone, car acted normal. First time was around 27K mi and second at 30K miles.
Brought it into Ford for evaluation, and they spent 6 weeks rebuilding the transmission.
They can read the old codes even if they aren't active. (Sounds like your Ford dealership might suck more than mine if all they do is take it for a test drive.)
The notes from service tech on my invoice say that when the transmission was opened and flushed, a bunch of valves were stuck, there was was a bunch of debris inside, and the fluid was burnt and contaminated with clutch material.
Question for you... Does your car make a "chuffing" ticking noise at 1500 rpms? I had this happening ever since I got it at 14K miles. The noise wen away for 3-4 months after the transmission rebuild. I've put another 2K+ miles on it, and it's totally back. Which make me thinks the transmission is going to fail again.
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