Brake Fluid Flush

[Jube]

Anyone have a link to the procedure to do a brake fluid flush having the electric booster.

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[jkeaton]

Why are you flushing the fluid on a year old vehicle?

 

[Jube]

Flush all my vehicles every 2 years. Just want to know for the future on this one as I know it is different due to the electronic booster.

 

[Bucko]

I looked in the BS Service manual (for electric brake booster) and only found this:

Bleeding

1. Carry out the brake system pressure bleeding using the diagnostic scan tool following the on-screen instructions.

 

[jkeaton]

Wow.

 

[Mark S.]

I looked in the BS Service manual (for electric brake booster) and only found this:

Bleeding

1. Carry out the brake system pressure bleeding using the diagnostic scan tool following the on-screen instructions.

The valves in the electric ABS pumps that control fluid pressure going to individual wheels on some newer cars will not open without electrical power and direction from the control module. These cars require the use of an appropriate scan tool to control the valves during the bleeding procedure. More here:

https://www.brakes-shop.com/brakepedia/general/bleeding-anti-lock-brakes

 

[Bucko]

The valves in the electric ABS pumps that control fluid pressure going to individual wheels on some newer cars will not open without electrical power and direction from the control module. These cars require the use of an appropriate scan tool to control the valves during the bleeding procedure. More here:

https://www.brakes-shop.com/brakepedia/general/bleeding-anti-lock-brakes

Thanks for following up. This may not be a procedure for the average home mechanic without the proper equipment. Then again, there have been those that come up with a work-around...

This part amused me:

If you really feel the need to cycle the valves, but do not have access to a service tool (or if the dealer is not willing to loan theirs) you COULD just replace Step #2 above with "go driving and slam on the brakes a few times to make the ABS work" to purge the used fluid from the unit. This is usually NOT the most efficient nor socially responsible solution, though it seems to work just fine. You still need to bleed the car a second time, but it saves you from procuring the service tool.

 

[Mark S.]

Thanks for following up. This may not be a procedure for the average home mechanic without the proper equipment. Then again, there have been those that come up with a work-around...

This part amused me:

If you really feel the need to cycle the valves, but do not have access to a service tool (or if the dealer is not willing to loan theirs) you COULD just replace Step #2 above with "go driving and slam on the brakes a few times to make the ABS work" to purge the used fluid from the unit. This is usually NOT the most efficient nor socially responsible solution, though it seems to work just fine. You still need to bleed the car a second time, but it saves you from procuring the service tool.

Aftermarket scan tools range in price from relatively inexpensive to ridiculous. If you purchase one make sure it can access your specific car's system--Fords use a different comm architecture than other vehicles.

 

[Bucko]

Aftermarket scan tools range in price from relatively inexpensive to ridiculous. If you purchase one make sure it can access your specific car's system--Fords use a different comm architecture than other vehicles.

I spent the bucks to be able to read and reset all codes (including brakes and seat belt) type codes for my 2007 Ford F-150. It will not work with the BS, and I have no plans to purchase one for the BS, as I won't have it past its 36 month warranty coverage.

My comments are to @Jube

 

[sajohnson]

A related observation:

Unless the brake fluid has not been flushed in forever, every time I've bled the brakes on a vehicle (since the 1970s), the only fluid that is darker than new is what is in the master cylinder reservoir and what is in the calipers and wheel cylinders.

The fluid in the lines always looks good.

So some people might question the need to cycle the valves the ABS module every time.

Of course doing that is best.

 

[Bucko]

A related observation:

Unless the brake fluid has not been flushed in forever, every time I've bled the brakes on a vehicle (since the 1970s), the only fluid that is darker than new is what is in the master cylinder reservoir and what is in the calipers and wheel cylinders.

The fluid in the lines always looks good.

So some people might question the need to cycle the valves the ABS module every time.

Of course doing that is best.

Agreed, brake fluid will absorb water/moisture over time, which is a huge factor in brake component damage or failure. Best to replace brake fluid every 2 to 3 years for safe measures. I don't prefer to gamble with brakes.

 

[Mark S.]

A related observation:

Unless the brake fluid has not been flushed in forever, every time I've bled the brakes on a vehicle (since the 1970s), the only fluid that is darker than new is what is in the master cylinder reservoir and what is in the calipers and wheel cylinders.

The fluid in the lines always looks good.

There isn't much cyclical movement of fluid between the reservoir and lines. The fluid in the lines when the system is first filled will be the same fluid when you flush the system at the recommended interval. If you drain the fluid in the last few inches of brake line nearest the caliper every time you replace the brake pads you'll get rid of the majority of contaminants in the fluid.

On the other hand, brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture when exposed to air. Any time you open a closed hydraulic system you increase the likelihood of water contamination and getting air in the system. That's why most manufacturers recommend simply flushing the system every five years or so.

 

[kshaw]

Most cars require replacement every two years. If you have a car that you track, you usually have to replace within 90 days of the track event or 180 days if you use approved racing fluids.

 

[Rawah652]

The valves in the electric ABS pumps that control fluid pressure going to individual wheels on some newer cars will not open without electrical power and direction from the control module. These cars require the use of an appropriate scan tool to control the valves during the bleeding procedure. More here:

https://www.brakes-shop.com/brakepedia/general/bleeding-anti-lock-brakes

I'm currently researching different scan tools to get to be able to do this procedure and a couple others on this and my other Ford. Definitely will need to be doing the brake fluid change on my Bronco in the next 6 months or so. Has anyone bought one and successfully used it? What brand did you use?

 

[kshaw]

I have used a Mighty vac bleeder before and that worked fine. The professional shops use a tool that that puts a small amount of pressure on a canister with the new brake fluid which temporarily replaces the cap on your brake reservoir. If you go this route, get a good brand because any kind of leak with pressurized brake fluid can damage your paint.

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