Add factory class II tow hitch after purchase?

[Coloroadrider]

I know this is an old thread, but here's some info if your having a hitch installed after the purchase. I had one installed today. The Ford hitch for the BS was going to be $420 to have it installed. They have to remove the rear bumper to install the factory hitch. I bought a Curt hitch instead. $160 for installation. big difference. They have to cut the bumper for either hitch

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[TooManyVehicles]

I know this is an old thread, but here's some info if your having a hitch installed after the purchase. I had one installed today. The Ford hitch for the BS was going to be $420 to have it installed. They have to remove the rear bumper to install the factory hitch. I bought a Curt hitch instead. $160 for installation. big difference. They have to cut the bumper for either hitch

Would you be so kind as to post some pictures (especially of the bumper cut) and the Curt part number? Thanks.

 

[Coloroadrider]

Would you be so kind as to post some pictures (especially of the bumper cut) and the Curt part number? Thanks.

This is the website for the cheapest I've found the Curt hitch for the Sport. It's an exact fit. Like I said, they have to cut the bumper for either hitch! They did a really good job on my bumper, but the company I used does hitches, brush guards bed covers etc. So they were experienced in cutting the bumper.

https://www.carparts.com/details/Ford/Bronco_Sport/Curt/Hitch/2021/Outer_Banks/3_Cyl_1-dot-5L/CUR13474.html

 

[Flash]

My paperwork says I have the Class II tow package, but the receiver is 2" x 2" which makes it a class III.

 

[bjbena]

This is the website for the cheapest I've found the Curt hitch for the Sport. It's an exact fit. Like I said, they have to cut the bumper for either hitch! They did a really good job on my bumper, but the company I used does hitches, brush guards bed covers etc. So they were experienced in cutting the bumper.

https://www.carparts.com/details/Ford/Bronco_Sport/Curt/Hitch/2021/Outer_Banks/3_Cyl_1-dot-5L/CUR13474.html

I'm buying the First Edition bumper when I add the tow package as I didn't like many of the cuts to bumper i've seen. You, my friend, have the best looking cutout in my opinion. I like how you rounded out corners and made the hole bigger .

My paperwork says I have the Class II tow package, but the receiver is 2" x 2" which makes it a class III.

Still Class II as it's limited by what the vehicle can pull.

 

[Flash]

I'm buying the First Edition bumper when I add the tow package as I didn't like many of the cuts to bumper i've seen. You, my friend, have the best looking cutout in my opinion. I like how you rounded out corners and made the hole bigger .


Still Class II as it's limited by what the vehicle can pull.

I'm talking about the hitch, not the vehicle's capabilities.

 

[Monkey]

I'm talking about the hitch, not the vehicle's capabilities.

Having a 2" receiver does not automatically make it Class III. But rather anything smaller than a 2" receiver disqualifies it from being Class III.

The hitch itself may be perfectly capable of meeting all Class III requirements. But once installed on a vehicle, the manufacturer can only advertise and sell it for the highest class for which it meets all the minimum requirements, when in combination with the vehicle it's mounted to. In this case, Class II.

 

[bjbena]

Having a 2" receiver does not automatically make it Class III. But rather anything smaller than a 2" receiver disqualifies it from being Class III.

The hitch itself may be perfectly capable of meeting all Class III requirements. But once installed on a vehicle, the manufacturer can only advertise and sell it for the highest class for which it meets all the minimum requirements, when in combination with the vehicle it's mounted to. In this case, Class II.

Bingo! You can buy a Class IV hitch from an F150 but the minute it bolts onto a BS it becomes a Class II.

 

[VirtualJMills]

Bingo! You can buy a Class IV hitch from an F150 but the minute it bolts onto a BS it becomes a Class II.

Class-V Gooseneck into the rear roof area, or go home. ;-)

 

[Flash]

One last time, I'm talking about the hitch itself and I made that plain in my last post.

Putting a Class III hitch on a Class II vehicle doesn't change the fact that it's a Class III hitch.

You could mount it on a motorscooter and it would still be a Class III hitch.

 

[VirtualJMills]

One last time, I'm talking about the hitch itself and I made that plain in my last post.

Putting a Class III hitch on a Class II vehicle doesn't change the fact that it's a Class III hitch.

You could mount it on a motorscooter and it would still be a Class III hitch.

Patience, grasshopper.

I think most folks are razzing this out of fun, not armchair "well actually…" behavior.

Ford has a plated set of maximums the surrounding (uni-)frame will support, the hitch cross-member itself is typically stronger than what surrounds it.

I'd happily prefer a healthily Class Ⅲ hitch cross-member and draw-bar, even if only loading to the high end of Class Ⅱ ratings.

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