Battery Tender Time, Anyone with Install Advice/Suggestions/Pics?

[JAM486HP]

First post here so bare with me... Bought a New 25 Badlands, I take only short trips 1-2 times a week and store in a cold garage, it's time to install a NOCO 5 Genius with M10 eyelet connect. Looking for install advice/experience as the install points are not quite as simple as my 24 Mustang. Much needed as these vehicles get moody without a strong battery.

First off (dumb question) do I need to disconnect the battery cable (7) before I begin? Think I'm getting sparks one way or the other. I notice just loosening the chassis post (4)started sparks, lights flashed etc...

For (+) I should go to the post (1) though the M10 eyelet would fit better on (2) or (3) . Would that work? Where do those head off to, or stay on the post clamp?

For (-) it is recommended to chassis post (4) though that contact is not great as it is, I prefer not disturb it with add-ons for obvious reasons. I'm thinking sand off paint and bolt the (-) to spot (5) and since there is already a pass-though (6) where I will be able to access the plug without having to open the hood. Have this on the Mustang and love it.

Any advice, suggestions would be appreciated.

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[SWUKU]

https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/bed-rest-bs-best-practices.8064/post-144481

 

[JAM486HP]

https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/bed-rest-bs-best-practices.8064/post-144481

Thanks, on your install you connected to the (-) battery post which is what the video on the BMS suggested not to do. Also the (+) you connected to, that (2) post on my pic, do you know where that leads to?
Do still have yours connected that way, and ever have any electrical or issues infotainment glitches?

 

[Major Kong]

grounding lug attached to frame grounding post
presently occupied by antenna strap and battery tender

 

[JAM486HP]

grounding lug attached to frame grounding post
presently occupied by antenna strap and battery tender

Thanks Major, I saw your thread a few days ago. The only difference with my 25, the ground lug is actually a bolt shape and not round like yours. I was trying to find a clamp that would work and make a good connection.

 

[SWUKU]

Thanks, on your install you connected to the (-) battery post which is what the video on the BMS suggested not to do. Also the (+) you connected to, that (2) post on my pic, do you know where that leads to?
Do still have yours connected that way, and ever have any electrical or issues infotainment glitches?

lots of smart people on here know more than me.
It works well and has had no problems of any sort
the dealer replaced my battery 6 months ago per the recall and they didn’t say anything about my hook up
but I’m always open to suggestions for safety and performance

 

[kshaw]

I installed an SAE pigtail on my Porsche and run the connector out near the wiper arm. I cut leads to correct length and crimped some ring terminals. That should work fine for the BS as well. I also installed an Ancel BM300 Pro battery monitor on my BS, 350Z, and Boxster. These use bluetooth to tell you the charge status of all your batteries. I use a Battery Minder to maintain my batteries and use an older version of this one: https://www.batterystuff.com/battery-restoration/12-volt/batteryminder-12v-2-4-8-amp-charger-maintainer-desulfator-and-lithium-charger-maintainer-128cec2.html . Leave your battery connected. There may be some debate on whether you should connect to the BS battery maintainer or directly to the battery posts. You want to leave some kind of reminder that the battery is being charged so that you do not accidentally back the BS out while the battery maintainer is connected.

 

[rocks]

Eyelet on the positive side of battery and my ground is connected to the Red Line hood lift bracket. My BS sits a lot and I ran a wire connect with cap to the cowl area of the windshield. Easy, quick off and on connection.
I have used a Deltran Battery Tender Plus and have for over 20 years. I had a classic '69 Corvette on one for years. I bought a new unit a couple of years ago. I just felt more comfortable with a new unit over a 20 year old unit.

 

[sajohnson]

Eyelet on the positive side of battery and my ground is connected to the Red Line hood lift bracket. My BS sits a lot and I ran a wire connect with cap to the cowl area of the windshield. Easy, quick off and on connection.
I have used a Deltran Battery Tender Plus and have for over 20 years. I had a classic '69 Corvette on one for years. I bought a new unit a couple of years ago. I just felt more comfortable with a new unit over a 20 year old unit.

I have at least 4 Deltran Battery Tender (BT) units. The oldest is from 2009 and still going strong. It is constantly connected to our RV chassis battery.

One thing that's nice about BT (and Battery Minder, IIRC) is that they use standard SAE connectors -- unlike some others (<cough> Noco <cough>) that use proprietary connectors. Last I saw, Noco charges $20 for an adapter to convert from their connector to the SAE 12V. They appear competitively priced, and are -- if the buyer does not need any accessories.

Before I became aware of that issue, I was going to purchase a Noco portable jump start unit with Ford points -- until I read the many negative (1-star) reviews. Those reviews may not apply to their battery maintainers.

That said, if the Noco maintainer comes with everything necessary to connect it -- enough wire, correct size ring terminals -- then their proprietary connector is a non-issue.

 

[sajohnson]

First post here so bare with me... Bought a New 25 Badlands, I take only short trips 1-2 times a week and store in a cold garage, it's time to install a NOCO 5 Genius with M10 eyelet connect. Looking for install advice/experience as the install points are not quite as simple as my 24 Mustang. Much needed as these vehicles get moody without a strong battery.

First off (dumb question) do I need to disconnect the battery cable (7) before I begin? Think I'm getting sparks one way or the other. I notice just loosening the chassis post (4)started sparks, lights flashed etc...

For (+) I should go to the post (1) though the M10 eyelet would fit better on (2) or (3) . Would that work? Where do those head off to, or stay on the post clamp?

For (-) it is recommended to chassis post (4) though that contact is not great as it is, I prefer not disturb it with add-ons for obvious reasons. I'm thinking sand off paint and bolt the (-) to spot (5) and since there is already a pass-though (6) where I will be able to access the plug without having to open the hood. Have this on the Mustang and love it.

Any advice, suggestions would be appreciated.

It's always a good idea to disconnect the neg(-) battery cable first. The reason is that with it connected, almost any metal surface is electrically connected to the negative battery terminal (B-). So if a person has a wrench on B+ and accidentally touches anything metal with the other end of the wrench, it will create a direct short. A shorted 12V battery can produce thousands of amps.

I'd use #2 for the pos(+) connection. In post #3 you asked where it leads to. For purposes of connecting the maintainer that's irrelevant -- it is a direct connection to the pos(+) battery post.

For the neg(-) connection I like Major Kong's grounding lug, although I see what you mean about your chassis post being hex shaped. Actually, the lug would still provide plenty of contact area for the small amount of current from the battery maintainer.

One potential issue -- if the BS must be jump started, Ford recommends using that post. If the post is completely covered by the lug, that would be a problem.

If #5 in your photo is a solid ground that would be OK.

 

[rocks]

I have at least 4 Deltran Battery Tender (BT) units. The oldest is from 2009 and still going strong. It is constantly connected to our RV chassis battery.

One thing that's nice about BT (and Battery Minder, IIRC) is that they use standard SAE connectors -- unlike some others (<cough> Noco <cough>) that use proprietary connectors. Last I saw, Noco charges $20 for an adapter to convert from their connector to the SAE 12V. They appear competitively priced, and are -- if the buyer does not need any accessories.

Before I became aware of that issue, I was going to purchase a Noco portable jump start unit with Ford points -- until I read the many negative (1-star) reviews. Those reviews may not apply to their battery maintainers.

That said, if the Noco maintainer comes with everything necessary to connect it -- enough wire, correct size ring terminals -- then their proprietary connector is a non-issue.

I have two NOCO G40 jump starters. I used them for neighbors a couple of times with no issues.

 

[cprcubed]

I have two NOCO G40 jump starters. I used them for neighbors a couple of times with no issues.

I also have two NOCO (GBX45) jump starters and have had no issues with them other than they take a while to recharge with a regular USB charger. I also have their U65 65-watt USB-C charger which is much faster. Cheers!

 

[JAM486HP]

It's always a good idea to disconnect the neg(-) battery cable first. The reason is that with it connected, almost any metal surface is electrically connected to the negative battery terminal (B-). So if a person has a wrench on B+ and accidentally touches anything metal with the other end of the wrench, it will create a direct short. A shorted 12V battery can produce thousands of amps.

I'd use #2 for the pos(+) connection. In post #3 you asked where it leads to. For purposes of connecting the maintainer that's irrelevant -- it is a direct connection to the pos(+) battery post.

For the neg(-) connection I like Major Kong's grounding lug, although I see what you mean about your chassis post being hex shaped. Actually, the lug would still provide plenty of contact area for the small amount of current from the battery maintainer.

One potential issue -- if the BS must be jump started, Ford recommends using that post. If the post is completely covered by the lug, that would be a problem.

If #5 in your photo is a solid ground that would be OK.

Great info! My limited experience, I always get sparks removing (B-) cable. Heck just backing out the chassis lug it throws sparks and the headlights flicker... I am trying to produce the least amount of disruption to the electrical system. So disconnect (B-) even though I get a small spark should be safest bet?

I can unscrew the ground lug though as I mentioned, just a quarter turn on that lug and it starts to spark and cause issues, it seems like while I have the battery disconnected, I should examine that area and try to get a better connection. Almost looked like Ford left too much paint under the lug. If that chassis connection is not constant and strong, eventually the vehicle will not start am I correct on that? That being the case I would prefer to ground the NOCO on it's own spot.

Appreciate the info

 

[sajohnson]

I have two NOCO G40 jump starters. I used them for neighbors a couple of times with no issues.

Almost all products have many more positive (4/5-star) reviews than 1-star.

I always read the 1-star reviews first. I disregard the ones that are clearly NA: operator error; box damaged; wrong color; late delivery, etc. I pay attention to the ones that are detailed and appear to be written by a person who has a clue. In addition to the product itself, I pay attention to reviews of customer service.

There's usually a decent chance of getting a good product, even when the percentage of negative reviews is high. My goal is to improve my odds of getting something that will work well, be reliable, and if there is an issue, get good customer service -- i.e., they answer emails and phone calls, are polite and professional, have no "restocking fees" and free returns if the problem is not the customer's fault.

So as with many items, my sense is that with Noco, if the buyer gets good one, great. If not, too bad so sad. Customer service is reportedly terrible.

 

[sajohnson]

Great info! My limited experience, I always get sparks removing (B-) cable. Heck just backing out the chassis lug it throws sparks and the headlights flicker... I am trying to produce the least amount of disruption to the electrical system. So disconnect (B-) even though I get a small spark should be safest bet?

I can unscrew the ground lug though as I mentioned, just a quarter turn on that lug and it starts to spark and cause issues, it seems like while I have the battery disconnected, I should examine that area and try to get a better connection. Almost looked like Ford left too much paint under the lug. If that chassis connection is not constant and strong, eventually the vehicle will not start am I correct on that? That being the case I would prefer to ground the NOCO on it's own spot.

Appreciate the info

My experience is mostly with older cars -- aside from the Badlands the newest one we have is a 2002 WRX. There is no risk of damage from disconnecting the battery with older vehicles. AFAIK, it's the same with the BS, at least I haven't read anything to indicate otherwise.

You definitely want to disconnect the neg(-) cable first, and reconnect it last. That way, if you accidentally bridge from the pos(+) terminal/cable to any surrounding metal it will not create a short.

A small spark when disconnecting the battery is normal -- especially with a vehicle like the BS which turns on the lights and headlight fans (etc.) whenever a door is opened. If you pop the hood, and then close the driver's door and wait for everything to turn off before disconnecting the battery any spark should be much smaller, and maybe not noticeable.

Your instinct about not using the chassis ground is correct. It is critical. You can use it, and it should be fine, but it would be a potential failure point.

You might consider using "Kopr-Shield" or similar on the ground connection:
https://www.specialized.net/cp8-tb-thomas-betts-kopr-shield-compound-8-oz.html

It's pricey but it works exceptionally well, has multiple uses, and a little goes a long way.

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