Whats the Cheapest Price battery out there for 21 Sport?

[AlpharettaOuterBank]

If anyone were interested in the nuts and bolts long winded detail of how I got into this situation, the link is below. It all started out so innocent.


https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/visited-dealer-for-recall-work-ended-up-with-deadcell-in-battery-that-shoots-acid-long-and-short-version.9690/

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[Dude]

Believe it or not, heat is much worse for batteries than cold.

https://www.consumerreports.org/cars/car-batteries/how-hot-weather-affects-your-car-battery-what-to-do-about-it-a4527456418/

Oh I believe that heat is much worse for batteries than cold …

where I live (often exceeds 110° for many weeks), I pretty much consider the battery as a yearly replacement item.

At a minimum, no matter what else I might be doing, at the very first suspicion (like even a small indication of a slower than normal crank when starting the car), means drop everything and just head over to buy a new battery.

I generally only get one or 2 early “warnings” the battery is going to fail soon.

With new cars, I generally experience no battery issues in the first few years of ownership but no matter what battery replacement I use or it’s quality or its warranty (and I’ve pretty much tried them all), might as well get a new battery every year before the start of summer.

 

[RSH]

Free if your vehicle is still under warranty.
For a number of people including myself, the standard FoMoCo lead acid battery gave out fairly early in its life cycle. The dealer replaced mine under warranty with a Motorcraft AGM battery.
So far so good, no more electrical issues.

 

[Bucko]

I live in Florida, and the summer heat gets hot at times. My experience with batteries going bad is when I see the winter months hit; the first blast of cold weather seems to kill my 3 year old batteries. I've never experienced a battery failure during summer months, but can understand that heat will affect them as well.

Hence my personal reasoning for cold weather causing an older battery to bite the dust.

 

[BourbonRunner]

I live in Florida, and the summer heat gets hot at times. My experience with batteries going bad is when I see the winter months hit; the first blast of cold weather seems to kill my 3 year old batteries. I've never experienced a battery failure during summer months, but can understand that heat will affect them as well.

Hence my personal reasoning for cold weather causing an older battery to bite the dust.

Funny how that works out, isn't it?

I don't think I've ever replaced a battery in the warmer months in nearly 30 years of owning and driving cars.

 

[AlpharettaOuterBank]

If you have access to a volt/ohm meter (or multi-meter), set it to DC voltage, and place the black probe on the negative post of the battery, and the red probe on the positive post of the battery. Have a helper start the engine. You should read 13 plus volts at the battery with the engine running (alternator spinning). If less, then alternator is bad.

With engine off, you should read 12.6 to 12.8 volts on a good, well charged battery.

CAR IS UP AND RUNNING! Walmart and Geico for the win! I will do this test as soon as i can. Thank you.

 

[Mark S.]

I live in Florida, and the summer heat gets hot at times. My experience with batteries going bad is when I see the winter months hit; the first blast of cold weather seems to kill my 3 year old batteries. I've never experienced a battery failure during summer months, but can understand that heat will affect them as well.

Hence my personal reasoning for cold weather causing an older battery to bite the dust.

Cold weather makes the car harder to start, so a weak battery will be more obvious. The summer heat damaged your battery, but the damage didn't become apparent until the colder temps put a heavier load on it.

 

[AlpharettaOuterBank]

Cold weather makes the car harder to start, so a weak battery will be more obvious. The summer heat damaged your battery, but the damage didn't become apparent until the colder temps put a heavier load on it.

like long term condensation?

 

[seoden88]

Specially? Hard to say.
All I know is I went in for the 2 recalls, went home and to work. Their printed invoice says battery at 85%.
Next day, car won’t start, all sort of error codes and warnings, check engine light, p0600 code the full gamut. I bring it back in within 3 days, they said they were going to spruce up the core. They print a new invoice of battery at 60% suggesting I get a new one. Just 4 days ago it was 85%. They are not attaching themselves to the overnight change in my battery after thier recall work which was drain tube and pcm reprogramming.
The battery is shooting up acid now and smoking inside the hood.

Even if you change battery you have to take it in to reset the battery management system. It monitors she if battery and adjusts charging accordingly

 

[Mark S.]

like long term condensation?

I'm not sure what you're asking. Do you want to know why engine starts are harder in colder weather?

https://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-driving-safety/accidents-hazardous-conditions/start-car-in-winter.htm

 

[Dude]

Even if you change battery you have to take it in to reset the battery management system. It monitors she if battery and adjusts charging accordingly

Not required to go to the dealership, @AlpharettaOuterBank can use this documented Ford procedure.

Battery Sensor Reset (Battery Management System (BMS) Reset):

When you install a new battery, reset the battery sensor by doing the following:
1. Switch ignition on, and leave the engine off.
Note: Complete Steps 2 & 3 within 10 seconds.
2. Flash the high beam headlamps five times, ending with the high beams off.
3. Press and release the brake pedal 3 times.
The battery warning lamp flashes 3 times to confirm that the reset is successful.

 

[AlpharettaOuterBank]

Even if you change battery you have to take it in to reset the battery management system. It monitors she if battery and adjusts charging accordingly

no one told me that. its been in there almost 24 hours now acting like normal.

 

[AlpharettaOuterBank]

Not required to go to the dealership, @AlpharettaOuterBank can use this documented Ford procedure.

Battery Sensor Reset (Battery Management System (BMS) Reset):

When you install a new battery, reset the battery sensor by doing the following:
1. Switch ignition on, and leave the engine off.
Note: Complete Steps 2 & 3 within 10 seconds.
2. Flash the high beam headlamps five times, ending with the high beams off.
3. Press and release the brake pedal 3 times.
The battery warning lamp flashes 3 times to confirm that the reset is successful.

damn like an old nintendo controller.

I even watched a video on how to change the battery where this wasnt mentioned.

 

[AlpharettaOuterBank]

If you have access to a volt/ohm meter (or multi-meter), set it to DC voltage, and place the black probe on the negative post of the battery, and the red probe on the positive post of the battery. Have a helper start the engine. You should read 13 plus volts at the battery with the engine running (alternator spinning). If less, then alternator is bad.

With engine off, you should read 12.6 to 12.8 volts on a good, well charged battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Continuity-Klein-Tools-ET250/dp/B071Z1R8ZG/ref=sr_1_30?crid=1IBC2LNUTPU7Y&keywords=klein+tools+voltage+tester&qid=1696089999&sprefix=klein+tools+volta,aps,86&sr=8-30&th=1

This is one I actually have in my house, will this be enough?

 

[Bucko]

https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Continuity-Klein-Tools-ET250/dp/B071Z1R8ZG/ref=sr_1_30?crid=1IBC2LNUTPU7Y&keywords=klein+tools+voltage+tester&qid=1696089999&sprefix=klein+tools+volta,aps,86&sr=8-30&th=1

This is one I actually have in my house, will this be enough?

Yep. That's a good one.

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