Whats the Cheapest Price battery out there for 21 Sport?

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If you have access to a volt/ohm meter (or multi-meter), set it to DC voltage, and place the black probe on the negative post of the battery, and the red probe on the positive post of the battery. Have a helper start the engine. You should read 13 plus volts at the battery with the engine running (alternator spinning). If less, then alternator is bad.

With engine off, you should read 12.6 to 12.8 volts on a good, well charged battery.

Thank you i will try that with the new battery, this battery was already close to exploding, leaking and shooting steam.
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Before you get too carried away buying a new battery, you need to check your warranty. Your factory battery is covered by the 3/36 warranty and you may still have that coverage in play.

Thant would have been great, but im at 55k.
 
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Thank you i will try that with the new battery, this battery was already close to exploding, leaking and shooting steam.
I would not wait too long after installing the new battery....if the alternator is overcharging, that replacement battery will most likely do the same.
 
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I would not wait too long after installing the new battery....if the alternator is overcharging, that replacement battery will most likely do the same.

I appreciate it.

So heres a question after diagnosis, which was done according to my dealer services, if they conclude that the battery has a dead cell, does that rule out the alternator? Would they put in the invoice, " bad alternator overcharging, causing bad battery".

I will probably make a post about my experience at my dealer, i dont want to veer off topic.
 


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I appreciate it.

So heres a question after diagnosis, which was done according to my dealer services, if they conclude that the battery has a dead cell, does that rule out the alternator? Would they put in the invoice, " bad alternator overcharging, causing bad battery".

I will probably make a post about my experience at my dealer, i dont want to veer off topic.
One would hope they would. But they may or may not have dug that deep. If they first saw it had a bad cell they may have stopped there.
 

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It's unfortunate if the tech stops with a battery having a bad/dead cell; while I'm not an ASE Certified Mechanic, I do know from experience that signs of overcharging are symptoms of a battery leaking and shooting steam, or spewing battery acid. These to me are signs of a battery being over charged (cooking), or severely shorted internally.

I'd hope they would do a complete charging diagnosis, and test the alternator, cables, and battery.
 

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Buy cheap, get cheap. Buy a name brand battery with a warranty. I personally will not buy a battery that states anymore than 3 years of life. An employee of Interstate battery once told be that on the average, a lead acid battery is good for 3 years; anything over that, your doing real good, so save your money on the 4 year batteries. I've had them last me 4 years in Florida, but we don't have the harsh winters like some in the north.
Believe it or not, heat is much worse for batteries than cold.

https://www.consumerreports.org/cars/car-batteries/how-hot-weather-affects-your-car-battery-what-to-do-about-it-a4527456418/
 

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So heres a question after diagnosis, which was done according to my dealer services, if they conclude that the battery has a dead cell, does that rule out the alternator? Would they put in the invoice, " bad alternator overcharging, causing bad battery".
Overcharging the battery generally means using a voltage higher than charging voltage. This is indicative of a bad voltage regulator. Older cars used a voltage regulator external to the alternator; they were two different parts. Many newer alternators incorporate the voltage regulator, so in a way you could say if the voltage regulator is bad you have a bad alternator.

Overcharging the battery will cause it to get hot. Overcharge it enough and it will start melting the plastic case. If you suspect a bad voltage regulator is causing your battery to be overcharged look for signs the plastic case of your battery has gotten hot (bulges, melted plastic, etc.).

I would be very surprised if the dead cell in your battery resulted from overcharging. The most common causes of a dead cell are manufacturing defects and age. As a battery is used and ages the lead plates inside shed debris which collects at the bottom of the case. When enough debris collects it can touch the bottom of the plates. If it touches two plates at the same time it will create an electrical connection where there shouldn't be one; AKA a short circuit. A short circuited cell cannot generate electricity, thus you have a dead cell.
 
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It's unfortunate if the tech stops with a battery having a bad/dead cell; while I'm not an ASE Certified Mechanic, I do know from experience that signs of overcharging are symptoms of a battery leaking and shooting steam, or spewing battery acid. These to me are signs of a battery being over charged (cooking), or severely shorted internally.

I'd hope they would do a complete charging diagnosis, and test the alternator, cables, and battery.

I appreciate you guys so much right now thank you all.
My wife, who i have no brain without, reminded me we have geico, so we scheduled road side assistance to pick up the car, to take it to Walmart, where i can get the battery and install. THIS WAY, the car wont have to be started and explode in anyone's face and everyone will be safer. I will suggest they put it in neutral and get it in there work area. Im a little worried because i called beforehand, and the tech asked if it was hard to do. ? I have a youtube video, seemed pretty easy, id do it myself, but the "free" tow seems to be the most energy efficient option for me.
 


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Overcharging the battery generally means using a voltage higher than charging voltage. This is indicative of a bad voltage regulator. Older cars used a voltage regulator external to the alternator; they were two different parts. Many newer alternators incorporate the voltage regulator, so in a way you could say if the voltage regulator is bad you have a bad alternator.

Overcharging the battery will cause it to get hot. Overcharge it enough and it will start melting the plastic case. If you suspect a bad voltage regulator is causing your battery to be overcharged look for signs the plastic case of your battery has gotten hot (bulges, melted plastic, etc.).

I would be very surprised if the dead cell in your battery resulted from overcharging. The most common causes of a dead cell are manufacturing defects and age. As a battery is used and ages the lead plates inside shed debris which collects at the bottom of the case. When enough debris collects it can touch the bottom of the plates. If it touches two plates at the same time it will create an electrical connection where there shouldn't be one; AKA a short circuit. A short circuited cell cannot generate electricity, thus you have a dead cell.

Well thats reassuring thank you.
 
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Overcharging the battery generally means using a voltage higher than charging voltage. This is indicative of a bad voltage regulator. Older cars used a voltage regulator external to the alternator; they were two different parts. Many newer alternators incorporate the voltage regulator, so in a way you could say if the voltage regulator is bad you have a bad alternator.

Overcharging the battery will cause it to get hot. Overcharge it enough and it will start melting the plastic case. If you suspect a bad voltage regulator is causing your battery to be overcharged look for signs the plastic case of your battery has gotten hot (bulges, melted plastic, etc.).

I would be very surprised if the dead cell in your battery resulted from overcharging. The most common causes of a dead cell are manufacturing defects and age. As a battery is used and ages the lead plates inside shed debris which collects at the bottom of the case. When enough debris collects it can touch the bottom of the plates. If it touches two plates at the same time it will create an electrical connection where there shouldn't be one; AKA a short circuit. A short circuited cell cannot generate electricity, thus you have a dead cell.

Let me ask you this: can such an event result from or be exacerbated by PCM reprogramming work or any work where the battery is unplugged and put back?
 

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Let me ask you this: can such an event result from or be exacerbated by PCM reprogramming work or any work where the battery is unplugged and put back?
I'm not sure what you're referring to when you say "such an event." Do you mean causing a dead cell?

Your car incorporates a battery management system (BMS). As far as I can tell, it's primary job is to monitor battery use and shut down systems that use electricity when the BMS believes available battery power is low. I think the system has been the cause of a lot of issues for Bronco Sport owners, but I don't see how it could possibly cause a dead cell.

If the person disconnecting/reconnecting a battery isn't careful they can cause a short circuit allowing current to flow directly from the positive terminal to the negative terminal. This is generally accompanied by a lot of noise, sparks, and smoke, and can certainly result in damage to internal components. Leave a short circuit in place long enough and you can absolutely generate enough heat to melt the plastic case. It can also melt the lead plates and battery posts. But the kind of current required to fuse internal parts together resulting in a dead cell would be readily apparent (see the comment above about noise, sparks, and smoke).
 
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I'm not sure what you're referring to when you say "such an event." Do you mean causing a dead cell?

Your car incorporates a battery management system (BMS). As far as I can tell, it's primary job is to monitor battery use and shut down systems that use electricity when the BMS believes available battery power is low. I think the system has been the cause of a lot of issues for Bronco Sport owners, but I don't see how it could possibly cause a dead cell.

If the person disconnecting/reconnecting a battery isn't careful they can cause a short circuit allowing current to flow directly from the positive terminal to the negative terminal. This is generally accompanied by a lot of noise, sparks, and smoke, and can certainly result in damage to internal components. Leave a short circuit in place long enough and you can absolutely generate enough heat to melt the plastic case. It can also melt the lead plates and battery posts. But the kind of current required to fuse internal parts together resulting in a dead cell would be readily apparent (see the comment above about noise, sparks, and smoke).
Thank you I will.
 
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Thanks Blackrob, they are bringing a flat bed. But I also am avoiding turning the battery on to put it in neutral. So I think i should pull the manual release string. But I wonder If i should wait on that part until i get to Walmart, the towing tech should have sliders to get it up on top. Id prefer the wheels not to move.
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