30,000 Mile Maintenance Service Cost

[RSH]

Sorry if I missed an earlier thread on this…but just picked up my 21 Big Bend from dealer. Finally got my parts in for the brake recall and some other minor issues like warped console cluster thingy, faulty mud flaps. While there they reminded me I was due for 30,000 mile maintenance service so I ok’d it. Can’t believe the cost on that service was $1,100 dollars. Is that what you all have experienced as far as cost? Trying to decipher all shop paperwork, but dang that price stings a bit.

Your dealer did quite a bit of additional work that isn't necessarily part of the normal 30k service unless the vehicle was used in severe duty or towing type service conditions.

It's not unusual for dealers to recommend or perform additional service items. I would think the service writer would have explained what their 30k service includes.

I wouldn't say you were ripped off, just some services were performed earlier in the service cycle than usual.
It's unfortunate the dealer didn't have the air filter instock, then at least you wouldn't of had to go back for awhile.

 

[Mark S.]

I wouldn't say you were ripped off, just some services were performed earlier in the service cycle than usual.

Assuming the services were actually performed, she got what she paid for. Only in that respect was she not ripped off. Replacing fluids in the transmission, front/rear diffs, and power transfer unit at 30K miles is not Ford's recommended service interval, and Ford NEVER recommends the "Fuel Intake and Throttle Service," so in that respect I would say she WAS ripped off. Performing services sooner that required is wasteful. Unless the inspection showed otherwise, the fluid removed from these components was still perfectly serviceable at 30K, yet it will go into the recycle barrel to be processed. If the inspection DID show these fluids required replacement then something is amiss with the components or @Inlandgirl's driving habits, yet I don't see that noted anywhere on this invoice.

This is a cautionary tale: Do not give your service department carte blanche to do whatever they want during "scheduled" service visits. Ask to see Ford's recommended service requirements and compare it with what they propose to do. I would question ANY service items not recommended by Ford. Remember that "inspect" does not necessarily mean "replace," but it may. For example, if they inspect the transmission fluid the tech may determine it needs replacing. Make sure you instruct your service writer to contact you BEFORE performing any maintenance they deem necessary based on an inspection. You should understand WHY the fluid needs to be replaced earlier than recommended. You may even want to have a look at the fluid yourself.

If a dealership service department balks at any requests such as those I suggest it's time to find another dealership. Open and honest communication between you and your service department should not be a hardship.

 

[PaulOinMA]

30k transmission fluid change is actually in the Special Operating Conditions section of Scheduled Maintenance in the owner's manual. Saw that last night.

If I'm out on the porch at night having a cigar and there's nothing of interest on the TV my wife is watching inside that I can still see, I may page through the owner's manual for our two new vehicles. I have both on my phone. Lots of interesting stuff in there.

Things like 3-year brake fluid change now. Will probably let dealer do that.

 

[Mark S.]

30k transmission fluid change is actually in the Special Operating Conditions section of Scheduled Maintenance in the owner's manual. Saw that last night.

That should not be assumed, however, by the shop. I didn't see anything on the invoice suggesting the shop was using the Special Operating Conditions schedule, and I think @Inlandgirl would've told us she requested that schedule if she had.

 

[Idahobro]

I can

Things like 3-year brake fluid change now. Will probably let dealer do that.

Brake fluid change is such a scam. It's the easiest thing to do. here is the poor man's process for a brake fluid chance.

Go get a new turkey baster and some new brake fluid. Us turkey baster to pull fluid our of reservoir and replace with new fluid. Drive a few hundred miles, rinse repeat a few times. I do this about every 30k or 40k miles and have never had a problem. Some people never change it.
paying a dealer between $200 and $600 to do this is crazy.

edit: if you really want to get it all out at once, here is an easy way that uses the turkey baster and bleeding the brakes.

https://www.oildepot.ca/changing-brake-fluid-turkey-baster/

Any DIY can do this.

 

[PaulOinMA]

I have a Mityvac and have done it on our Moke. Mityvac makes it pretty easy.

 

[Mark S.]

Go get a new turkey baster and some new brake fluid. Us turkey baster to pull fluid our of reservoir and replace with new fluid. Drive a few hundred miles, rinse repeat a few times.

While I agree that changing brake fluid should not cost $600, the process is more involved than simply replacing the fluid in the reservoir (the link you provided is not working). The fluid most in need of replacement is at the end of the brake lines near the calipers. The calipers get hot when you apply the brakes, and that heat is transferred to the fluid in the brake lines. Heat breaks down the fluid, and after the fluid cools you get condensate moisture. Moisture in the brake lines leads to further breakdown of the fluid, as well as internal corrosion of brake system components that come in contact with the brake fluid. The more moisture in the line the less effective the fluid is at generating pressure to stop you. That's because water turns to steam (gas) when heated to boiling, and unlike hydraulic fluid, gas is compressible. With water in the fluid flashed to steam hydraulic pressure generated by the brake booster will simply compress the steam in the line instead of pushing on the brake piston.

Brake fluid does not circulate in the system—there is no fluid return line to the reservoir from the calipers. The only way to get new fluid all the way to the calipers at the end of the brake lines—and all the water out—is to open the bleed valve at the caliper and drain the fluid out of the line. If you do that with new fluid in the reservoir you will replace the bad fluid in the line with the good fluid from the reservoir.

 

[Idahobro]

While I agree that changing brake fluid should not cost $600, the process is more involved than simply replacing the fluid in the reservoir (the link you provided is not working). The fluid most in need of replacement is at the end of the brake lines near the calipers. The calipers get hot when you apply the brakes, and that heat is transferred to the fluid in the brake lines. Heat breaks down the fluid, and after the fluid cools you get condensate moisture. Moisture in the brake lines leads to further breakdown of the fluid, as well as internal corrosion of brake system components that come in contact with the brake fluid. The more moisture in the line the less effective the fluid is at generating pressure to stop you. That's because water turns to steam (gas) when heated to boiling, and unlike hydraulic fluid, gas is compressible. With water in the fluid flashed to steam hydraulic pressure generated by the brake booster will simply compress the steam in the line instead of pushing on the brake piston.

Brake fluid does not circulate in the system—there is no fluid return line to the reservoir from the calipers. The only way to get new fluid all the way to the calipers at the end of the brake lines—and all the water out—s to open the bleed valve at the caliper and drain the fluid out of the line. If you do that with new fluid in the reservoir you will replace the bad fluid in the line with the good fluid from the reservoir.

The link works just fine for me. At any rate, info in the link talks about how damn easy it is to bleed at the calipers which overcomes (what appears to be) your main gripe above.

Take a plastic bottle, put a few inches of new brake fluid in it. put a clear plastic tube in it and fit that tube over the brake bleed fitting. make sure the end of the tube in the bottle is in the fluid so you don't draw air into the system on the brake pumping. Loosen fitting, have helper pump brakes. Watch fluid. When clean fluid starts flowing through the tube, tighten fitting. Rinse repeat on other four tires.

People need to stop thinking about these vehicles as crazy complex, or better yet, stop thinking of themselves as incompetent. It doesn't take much to do this. Just you tube it. People with minor technical ability can do this without issue. Then take your spouse/significant other out to a nice dinner and tell him/her how bad ass you are by doing it yourself.

Dealers are for knuckleheads like me, who don't have enough time to do it myself unless it's really crazy $$$$. Like it was the other day, I changed two TEDs in the driver's seat and the FF camera in my F350. My cost was $300 and an IOU to a friend who helped. Dealer estimate for both repairs was $2000. It took us under two hours to complete both jobs. The camera was 45 minutes b/c we had to take the grill off and the seat was an 1 and 15 minutes because we had to remove the seat. Our tech manual was You tube!.

 

[Mark S.]

The link works just fine for me.

It does now; it didn't the first time I clicked it.

At any rate, info in the link talks about how damn easy it is to bleed at the calipers which overcomes (what appears to be) your main gripe above.

That's not what you said in your first post:

Go get a new turkey baster and some new brake fluid. Us turkey baster to pull fluid our of reservoir and replace with new fluid. Drive a few hundred miles, rinse repeat a few times.

Even the link you provided shows this as inaccurate.

People with minor technical ability can do this without issue.

I'm not so sure I fully agree with this. Those who've never done it before would benefit greatly by having a (competent) friend walk them through the process before attempting themselves. I agree that it's easy to do...if you know what you're doing. It's also easy to really screw things up if you don't know what you're doing. Brakes are a critical safety system; if you don't do this right you could endanger yourself or others on the road.

 

[RSH]

Assuming the services were actually performed

That's a pretty bold statement.

I would say the dealer should have been more transparent in what their version of the 30k service entailed. I also think the OP, could have been more inquisitive and or had more of an idea of the service expected.
Unfortunately the experience ended up leaving a bad taste because of the sticker shock of the service bill.

I'm not defending the dealer or the OP, their were errors on both sides.

Taking it as as a learning experience, the OP can choose other options for future service's or even perform some of them on their own.

 

[Idahobro]

It does now; it didn't the first time I clicked it.


That's not what you said in your first post:

Even the link you provided shows this as inaccurate.

I'm not so sure I fully agree with this. Those who've never done it before would benefit greatly by having a (competent) friend walk them through the process before attempting themselves. I agree that it's easy to do...if you know what you're doing. It's also easy to really screw things up if you don't know what you're doing. Brakes are a critical safety system; if you don't do this right you could endanger yourself or others on the road.

Who cares what you agree with? Please with the know it all responses. Yes, ANYONE that has an IQ over 90 can do it. It's simple. There are a ton of Youtube videos for people who have never done it.

My god man, get a life.

 

[Mark S.]

My god man, get a life.

From the man who is reading the opinions of someone they don't care about? Not sure I agree with this...

 

[Mark S.]

That's a pretty bold statement.

I'm certainly not claiming they didn't do what they said, but I'm a trust-but-verify kinda guy.

I would say the dealer should have been more transparent in what their version of the 30k service entailed. I also think the OP, could have been more inquisitive and or had more of an idea of the service expected.
Unfortunately the experience ended up leaving a bad taste because of the sticker shock of the service bill.

I'm not defending the dealer or the OP, their were errors on both sides.

Taking it as as a learning experience, the OP can choose other options for future service's or even perform some of them on their own.

Agreed!

 

[Idahobro]

From the man who is reading the opinions of someone they don't care about? Not sure I agree with this...

Well, at least you have a sense of humor. I can work with that. Now, we just need to knock the chip off your shoulder that possesses you to needlessly attempt to correct people on a point by point basis. I bet you've never heard that before, right?

I am glad you acknowledge that they are "opinions" and not facts. That's a good first step.

 

[Mark S.]

Well, at least you have a sense of humor. I can work with that.

That's nice.

Now, we just need to knock the chip off your shoulder that possesses you to needlessly attempt to correct people on a point by point basis.

Sometimes clarity requires specificity.

I bet you've never heard that before, right?

Not from you.

I am glad you acknowledge that they are "opinions" and not facts. That's a good first step.

There are opinions, and then there are opinions. It's usually fairly easy to figure out which ones are worth listening to.

At any rate, if you wanna continue the should-we-or-should-we-not-listen-to-what-Mark S.-has-to-say discussion you should probably start a new topic.

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