No.
Sorry - my bad as explained. Very hard to find the 2.0 info and you were a big help.
Is it push3d down all the way. Maybe jus the angleJust received my engine cover from Carid.
Have 2 more ball studs on the way.
Thank you for letting us know about removing the bracket . I bought to short ball studs and 2 long ball studs. Now I just need 1 more short ball stud.Realize topic has been discussed over and over. Just creating a post that once and for all outlines the situation, parts needed and a simple how to (this would have so helped me).
Beginning mid 2021 Ford stopped including engine covers for BS outfitted with the 1.5 liter Dragon engine (plenty of theories and outrage). Besides there being no cover, Ford added a plastic bracket to the right and back of the engine to help hold two hoses in place... Intriguing!
There is a diagram floating around that shows the cover, short metal stud, long plastic stud and a bottom insulator piece. To clarify, diagram does NOT actually represent parts needed to retrofit a BS without an engine cover. Only need 2 of the parts shown and for one of those parts, the short metal stud, 3 are needed.
What you will need:
What you will NOT need:
- Engine Cover = JX6Z-6A949-B
- Short, Engine Cover Metal Stud = AA5Z-6N958-A (need 3)
Had followed the diagram and as a result made mistake of ordering ONLY 1 short bolt as well as a long bolt that was NOT needed (noticed bottom insulator was already there so at least avoided that extra purchase).
- Long, Engine Cover Plastic Stud (already installed, used to hold the plastic bracket in place)
- Bottom Insulator (already installed)
As for install, it will be obvious where the 3 short mounting bolts go. To remove the bracket, first unclip the hoses or simply cut the zip ties (ties were on tight so left them on and just unclipped hoses from the bracket using a trim tool). Once hoses are free from the bracket, trick will be to pull the bracket out. Easier said than done but it will pop out, just give it a good hard pull straight up. Suggest spraying some WD 40 inside (see pic below) the cylinder section on the right where the bracket is mounted.
And that is it! Hopefully helpful (post is NOT to debate merits or uselessness of an engine cover... nor how cheap Ford is (but they are!) for no longer including one in a $30k+ SUV!)
... Bit off topic, but pic below compared to pic above reveals another one (noticed it in another thread). Realize there is, besides the options listed, another subtle difference b/w Base vs Big Bend/Outer Banks noted as "enhanced sound insulation"... Thinking that includes underbody panels and laminated front door window glass among things one wouldn't find in the Base edition. Wonder if pad below is such an item too (is pic of engine above from a Base?)... Figure that pad could help absorb heat and sound? 
Realize topic has been discussed over and over. Just creating a post that once and for all outlines the situation, parts needed and a simple how to (this would have so helped me).
Beginning mid 2021 Ford stopped including engine covers for BS outfitted with the 1.5 liter Dragon engine (plenty of theories and outrage
There is a diagram floating around that shows the cover, short metal stud, long plastic stud and a bottom insulator piece. To clarify, diagram does NOT actually represent parts needed to retrofit a BS without an engine cover. Only need 2 of the parts shown and for one of those parts, the short metal stud, 3 are needed.
What you will need:
What you will NOT need:
- Engine Cover = JX6Z-6A949-B
- Short, Engine Cover Metal Stud = AA5Z-6N958-A (need 3)
Had followed the diagram and as a result made mistake of ordering ONLY 1 short bolt as well as a long bolt that was NOT needed (noticed bottom insulator was already there so at least avoided that extra purchase).
- Long, Engine Cover Plastic Stud (already installed, used to hold the plastic bracket in place)
- Bottom Insulator (already installed)
As for install, it will be obvious where the 3 short mounting bolts go. To remove the bracket, first unclip the hoses or simply cut the zip ties (ties were on tight so left them on and just unclipped hoses from the bracket using a trim tool). Once hoses are free from the bracket, trick will be to pull the bracket out. Easier said than done but it will pop out, just give it a good hard pull straight up. Suggest spraying some WD 40 inside (see pic below) the cylinder section on the right where the bracket is mounted.
And that is it! Hopefully helpful (post is NOT to debate merits or uselessness of an engine cover... nor how cheap Ford is (but they are!) for no longer including one in a $30k+ SUV!)
I bought the engine cover and hood insulator from my Ford dealer and did not have to pay for any shipping. You can find the parts online for less but the shipping costs are not worth it. I believe the engine cover serves a useful purpose. There are a lot of hoses, wires and tubes on top of the engine that undergo a lot of vibration during operation. Vibration eventually leads to failure. The cover is molded to hold these in place...My opinion.Realize topic has been discussed over and over. Just creating a post that once and for all outlines the situation, parts needed and a simple how to (this would have so helped me).
Beginning mid 2021 Ford stopped including engine covers for BS outfitted with the 1.5 liter Dragon engine (plenty of theories and outrage
There is a diagram floating around that shows the cover, short metal stud, long plastic stud and a bottom insulator piece. To clarify, diagram does NOT actually represent parts needed to retrofit a BS without an engine cover. Only need 2 of the parts shown and for one of those parts, the short metal stud, 3 are needed.
What you will need:
What you will NOT need:
- Engine Cover = JX6Z-6A949-B
- Short, Engine Cover Metal Stud = AA5Z-6N958-A (need 3)
Had followed the diagram and as a result made mistake of ordering ONLY 1 short bolt as well as a long bolt that was NOT needed (noticed bottom insulator was already there so at least avoided that extra purchase).
- Long, Engine Cover Plastic Stud (already installed, used to hold the plastic bracket in place)
- Bottom Insulator (already installed)
As for install, it will be obvious where the 3 short mounting bolts go. To remove the bracket, first unclip the hoses or simply cut the zip ties (ties were on tight so left them on and just unclipped hoses from the bracket using a trim tool). Once hoses are free from the bracket, trick will be to pull the bracket out. Easier said than done but it will pop out, just give it a good hard pull straight up. Suggest spraying some WD 40 inside (see pic below) the cylinder section on the right where the bracket is mounted.
And that is it! Hopefully helpful (post is NOT to debate merits or uselessness of an engine cover... nor how cheap Ford is (but they are!) for no longer including one in a $30k+ SUV!)
The write up is great but I am getting conflicting P/N when on different dealer sites... IDK uggh
