What Tire Pressure in New Tires?

[RSH]

Brader2,

33psi cold.

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[Osco]

Tire crayon / grease-pencil works as well. Anything that'll abrade-off again in a reasonable amount of time.

This is a low-tech way of doing contact-patch analysis, which is a surrogate for zoned tread-block temperature analysis (typically on-track tyres).

Sounds cool but I’ll stick to my more scientific but takes longer to collect data method of my tread depth gauge.
I get a difference in center tread depth in as little as 5,000 miles if I’m over or under inflated.
I compensate and rotate and I’m done.
I’ve always gotten good service life and off they come at 4mm not the wear bars 2mm depth. I don’t like to slip up.

 

[Bluebaru]

Hi everyone,

I'm reading some conflicting information regarding tire pressure. I went one size up in tires; should I still go by the recommended tire pressure stated on the inside door or what is shown on the new tire?
I previously had Michelin Primacy A/S 225/60/18 and now upgraded to BF Goodrich Trail Terrain T/A 235/60/18.

Thank you all for the help!

Tire crayon / grease-pencil works as well. Anything that'll abrade-off again in a reasonable amount of time.

This is a low-tech way of doing contact-patch analysis, which is a surrogate for zoned tread-block temperature analysis (typically on-track tyres).

As far as the chalk method goes, cover the full width of the tire and about 4-6" of the circumference. Drive straight on smooth level pavement a short distance (~100') don't accelerate or brake hard. You're looking for even wear across the full width of the chalk patch.

On another note, there are online tire pressure calculators. I tried posting a link but I'm not tech savvy. It was mentioned in the Falken tire Welcome thread.

 

[VirtualJMills]

Even though it might be considered “low tech”. It’s worked for me for years and with properly balanced wheels and tires…they will wear evenly if rotated on a regular basis as well.

To be clear, I'm using "low tech" in the "cost to implement" sense, not the pejorative sense.

A piece of sidewalk chalk or a tyre grease-pencil / crayon plus a smooth patch of pavement costs almost nothing, and gets you 90% of the way there -- in the Bronco Sport context (road passenger vehicle, mixed duty), it's unlikely that upper 10% of tyre tuning would yield much to the end-consumer.

 

[Osco]

To be clear, I'm using "low tech" in the "cost to implement" sense, not the pejorative sense.

A piece of sidewalk chalk or a tyre grease-pencil / crayon plus a smooth patch of pavement costs almost nothing, and gets you 90% of the way there -- in the Bronco Sport context (road passenger vehicle, mixed duty), it's unlikely that upper 10% of tyre tuning would yield much to the end-consumer.

I beg to differ. 10% off in my 33 pst tires is 3.3 pounds.
From a lifetime of experience with tires if I ran my Bronco sport 3 psi low I’d wear the outsides down pretty quick, long before I reached half of stated service life front and or rear.
If I ran a cold tp of 36 I’d wear out the middle on mr rears.
But this accelerated over inflation wear would be halved if I kept up rotations. This is what many do.
Not to mention being 10% off will not bode well for wet weather traction.
From what I could find the chalk methods is better suited to the old bias ply’s of yesteryear and also widely used when a race team builds a new car. It was just for hunting a baseline starting point so they could choose a tire compound.
Radials are not like bias ply in any way.

 

[VirtualJMills]

I beg to differ. 10% off in my 33 pst tires is 3.3 pounds.
From a lifetime of experience with tires if I ran my Bronco sport 3 psi low I’d wear the outsides down pretty quick, long before I reached half of stated service life front and or rear.
If I ran a cold tp of 36 I’d wear out the middle on mr rears.
But this accelerated over inflation wear would be halved if I kept up rotations. This is what many do.
Not to mention being 10% off will not bode well for wet weather traction.
From what I could fine the chalk methods is better suited to the old bias ply’s of yesteryear and also widely used when a race team builds a new car. It was just for hunting a baseline starting point so they could choose a tire compound.
Radials are not like bias ply in any way.

I was referring to 10% in context of "net-gains", not absolute tyre pressure

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