Type of fuel used on BS ?

[Osco]

I run premium because it's the only ethanol free alternative I have. I also have documented about a 10% decrease in fuel economy using ethanol laden fuel. So the extra cost is offset.

You don't need to vet anything for me. Between the owner's manual and what I've documented, the vetting has already been done. Thanks anyway!

FWIW I saw/felt no difference in Mpg’s between ethanol free and 10% I did many tanks of the 100% gas. Cost me nearly a dollar more per gallon.
In my Base model.
Do you have the 2 liter ?
I did this flip flop test in my 3.7 liter V6 2013 Ford F-150 and found ethanol free gave me a 10% mileage increase consistently.
But An extra 10% or 1.9 Mpg of the 91 octane ethanol free still did not
Justify the added 30% cost increase of that fuel.
My 2006 2.7 liter Tacoma also gave a 10% mpg gain.
My 1998 Jeep 4.0 strait six gave no mpg gain. This I’ve never understood.
Any thoughts ?

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[Mark S.]

How does it do this ? Do tell ?
Preventing early detonation ?
Izzat what you mean ?

I'm not sure what you mean by "early detonation." The engine will experience detonation at lower temperatures using regular gas, and engine temp is going to increase rapidly in an uphill towing situation where you may need maximum or near maximum power just to keep up with traffic. Using premium fuel can reduce or avoid entirely the need to drive for a prolonged time with the throttle wide open.

 

[abxponce]

87 octane in a 1.5 with out issues for over 5K miles .

Mpg?

 

[Thuntley001]

Curious as to what others are using for fuel type on their BS?

I use only E091 in my BS Outer Banks. I regularly get 31+ MPG in combined driving. On a 110-mile roundtrip adventure (mostly Interstate) I got 37.4 MGP. Where I'm located in Missouri I find it at QuikTrip and or, Hy-Vee.

 

[Fairplayinc]

Can you use 87? Yes. You might actually feel hesitation in higher RPMs (like I have in my last 4 Ford ecoboost vehicles on 87) compared to running 91 or 93. This hesitation is the computer pulling timing because the knock sensors picked up knock.

I plan on keeping our BS for the long haul. 91-93 give you more headroom against knock. Knock generates heat. Heat melts pistons. Don't melt your pistons.

 

[CrashBend]

Curious as to what others are using for fuel type on their BS?

I use the 87 Octane at COSTCO which has up to 10% Ethanol. Works fine for me. Nearing the first 5K miles on the OB.

 

[Osco]

I'm not sure what you mean by "early detonation." The engine will experience detonation at lower temperatures using regular gas, and engine temp is going to increase rapidly in an uphill towing situation where you may need maximum or near maximum power just to keep up with traffic. Using premium fuel can reduce or avoid entirely the need to drive for a prolonged time with the throttle wide open.

Never experienced this as I always downshifted or my automatic did it for me. Never needed WOT to pull up grades, always relied I that majic number 5200 rpm, where the Hp and torque peaks meet on any given engine.

 

[MaxVelocity]

FWIW I saw/felt no difference in Mpg’s between ethanol free and 10% I did many tanks of the 100% gas. Cost me nearly a dollar more per gallon.
In my Base model.
Do you have the 2 liter ?
I did this flip flop test in my 3.7 liter V6 2013 Ford F-150 and found ethanol free gave me a 10% mileage increase consistently.
But An extra 10% or 1.9 Mpg of the 91 octane ethanol free still did not
Justify the added 30% cost increase of that fuel.
My 2006 2.7 liter Tacoma also gave a 10% mpg gain.
My 1998 Jeep 4.0 strait six gave no mpg gain. This I’ve never understood.
Any thoughts ?

I don't know yet. I am waiting on delivery of my BL with 2.0L to see the results. I'll do some test tanks and see. Even the EPA says to expect a 3-4% drop in economy, but they base it on solely on ethanol content and don't take into consideration how various vehicles may be optimized to run E10. That's why I'm curious to see how the fuel management works in the new BS.

I drive 7 miles of mountain highway every day at 6-8% grades, so maybe that has something to do with my current vehicles performance and economy with premium.

Our premium is not 30% higher cost either, which would be a tough pill to swallow. Right now it is about 15%.

 

[fourthgear]

28 city , haven't went on a highway trip yet, but certainly will .

 

[VirtualJMills]

Never experienced this as I always downshifted or my automatic did it for me. Never needed WOT to pull up grades, always relied I that manic number 5200 rpm, where the Hp and torque peaks meet on any given engine.

I thought they met at 5252 RPM? You're under-cranking! ;-)

 

[Osco]

I don't know yet. I am waiting on delivery of my BL with 2.0L to see the results. I'll do some test tanks and see. Even the EPA says to expect a 3-4% drop in economy, but they base it on solely on ethanol content and don't take into consideration how various vehicles may be optimized to run E10. That's why I'm curious to see how the fuel management works in the new BS.

I drive 7 miles of mountain highway every day at 6-8% grades, so maybe that has something to do with my current vehicles performance and economy with premium.

Our premium is not 30% higher cost either, which would be a tough pill to swallow. Right now it is about 15%.

Yep and my premium locally is now only 20% more than regular, I just looked.
FWIW I just yesterday did the pass to Franklin NC, 7 & 8 % grades with my 1.5L, no cargo just me with cruise control on. My engine never got above 3200 RPM going up with most of the climbing at 2700 with the automatic easily choosing the best gear out of the eight.
Dang thang shifts so smooth I never can count to see what gear I’m in…
As for descending I hit the low button, it climbed above my cruise control set 45 mph. The downshifts were smooth. But
Just not enough engine braking power. Was not long before I was at 5,000 rpm so I held he brakes steady. We know on a long decent and steady braking produces the least heat.
There was never any brake fade.

 

[Mark S.]

We know on a long decent and steady braking produces the least heat.

What technique do you use? I've read that once the car reaches a given speed (driver's choice) you apply the brakes long enough to slow 10-15 mph, then release them completely. Lather, rinse, repeat. The time between brake applications allows the brakes to cool, which prevents boiling of brake fluid in the brake lines near the calipers.

I know this technique is absolutely critical for large vehicles, and it's what they teach over-the-road truckers.

 

[dejones64]

For those of you getting over 30mpg are you on stock tires still, or changed out to bigger AT's?

I swapped to 245 AT's before I even picked it up at the dealer. Run between 89-93 octane, struggling to get 28mpg. Mostly paved backroads (stop turn stop turn), some stretches at 60mph, some city.

 

[Osco]

What technique do you use? I've read that once the car reaches a given speed (driver's choice) you apply the brakes long enough to slow 10-15 mph, then release them completely. Lather, rinse, repeat. The time between brake applications allows the brakes to cool, which prevents boiling of brake fluid in the brake lines near the calipers.

I know this technique is absolutely critical for large vehicles, and it's what they teach over-the-road truckers.

3.2 million commercial miles behind me. Had 800,000 before I went to Tractor trailer school in the Air Force and became an instructor.
Driver from stateside had to get past me before they drove off base. We were in Rienland pfaltz, very hilly…
Not watching your video as I’m retired but we taught the opposite.
Steady brake pedal generates less heat as brake disk do very little cooling in the short term.
You press, they heat, your release they cool say 25% of built up heat, you press they heat up a double that. Release they drop 25% but now from a higher temp.
They key is and has always been slowing down before the grade, downshifting and steady brake pressure.
Videos on the internet are often wanna be know it’s all’s that manage a so called title of importance.
We did extreme over weight trucking in Germany. I was certified to transport tanks like the Abram.
I treat my cars brakes just like my 100,000 pound and above GVWR trucks.
Fact ! If it takes 200 horse power to go from zero to sixty in a given distance it takes 2,000 to go from sixty to zero in that same distance. Inertia is the problem. I also transported nukes at Minot., The big Mrv’s and such, city killers. They made damn sure we knew everything about trucks and especially brakes
Your feather braking can kill or at least wear out brakes faster and boil brake fluid.
You choose who you listen to…

 

[Mark S.]

Not watching your video as I’m retired but we taught the opposite.
Steady brake pedal generates less heat as brake disk do very little cooling in the short term.
You press, they heat, your release they cool say 25% of built up heat, you press they heat up a double that. Release they drop 25% but now from a higher temp.
They key is and has always been slowing down before the grade, downshifting and steady brake pressure.
Videos on the internet are often wanna be know it’s all’s that manage a so called title of importance.
We did extreme over weight trucking in Germany. I was certified to transport tanks like the Abram.
I treat my cars brakes just like my 100,000 pound and above GVWR trucks.
Fact ! If it takes 200 horse power to go from zero to sixty in a given distance it takes 2,000 to go from sixty to zero in that same distance. Inertia is the problem. I also transported nukes at Minot., The big Mrv’s and such, city killers. They made damn sure we knew everything about trucks and especially brakes
Your feather braking can kill or at least wear out brakes faster and boil brake fluid.
You choose who you listen to…

Seems like I touched a nerve. Certainly didn't mean to offend. I agree that using a lower gear is the best way to control speed going downhill, but the post I commented on said that wasn't working so brakes were required. The video I posted is from a commercial driver training facility. It also recommends the primary means of speed control is with engine braking, and using brakes as a supplement.

I've searched far and wide online and I can find NO recommendations to maintain steady pressure on brakes when they are required to control speed going downhill. Every reference I can find recommends using a lower gear first, then supplementing with short, hard brake applications with time between to allow for cooling. For example, this article includes recommendations from Alabama's Commercial Driver's License Manual. Excerpt:

The manual recommends that drivers put the truck into the proper low gear, press the brakes just hard enough to notice a slowdown, and use brakes for periods of around 3 seconds before releasing them.

My dad was a commercial driver for 20+ years in the intermountain west hauling doubles and triples. He was selected by his company to train other drivers in the midwest and east coast states when their laws changed permitting double and triple trailer operations. When he taught me to drive he told me never to ride the brakes going downhill, and showed me the "snubbing" technique.

Short, sharp brake applications with cooling time between seems to make more sense to me than a long, continuous application with no cooling, but I'm not a brake engineer. The snubbing technique my dad taught me has worked well over the years; I think I'll stick with it.

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