Speaker Install Help

[gatornek]

Do you really need the OE connectors? Are you planning to put the OE speakers back in? If not, then why do you need to stick with OE connectors? I get that it makes installation easier. They're designed to make production line assembly faster less error prone. That said, there's nothing magic about them. They won't make an aftermarket installation any more durable than using any number of other widely available DIY connectors. I designed and wired the electrical system for the plane I built, and I learned a lot about what works and what doesn't. I wouldn't waste any more time trying to find OE connectors if I were you.

Zip me a private message and I'll send my phone number if you'd like to discuss.

Nah. I don't NEED them. I would''ve LIKED them. But yeah, the install just took a left turn after seeing that the clips wouldn't go. I really didn't feel like going digging for my connector kit and heat gun. I use these
https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-haisstronica-Connectors-Waterproof-Connectors-Insulated-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B09BQZLJXG/ref=asc_df_B09BQZLJXG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693270340479&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18305843157980038827&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011938&hvtargid=pla-1953930812784&mcid=944284eb6e1332679856d5407f888e5e&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwltKxBhDMARIsAG8KnqVJxHtDkMhtNpIaestSJ8hfQvX635bHgu17Tkfg5oNXDjxC3TAl1xMaArUaEALw_wcB&th=1
I just figure back it up and at least take a moment to see if Im missing something since this dude swore by them
https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/conversations/tweeter-replacement.2560/
I've reached out to the manufacturer to to doublecheck.

I may reach out to the suggestion above just to see what the quote is, but I don't feel like shelling out too much more money than I already have. While I've saved money installing these myself, I've wasted a lot of money on adapters.

What I don't like about having to snip the wires more than anything, is the very tight space to work, and the very little slack they give you on tweeter line.

Question: does blue correspond to black and grey to red? Or vice versa?

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[Mark S.]

https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/conversations/tweeter-replacement.2560/#convMessage-13842

Question: does blue correspond to black and grey to red? Or vice versa?

This link didn't work for me. I get the "oops" message.

 

[gatornek]

This link didn't work for me. I get the "oops" message.

I think I fixed it now. Sorry.

 

[Mark S.]

I think I fixed it now. Sorry.

Nope:

 

[gatornek]

Nope:

Not sure what's up, but its all good. On that thread, the OP responded and confirmed I was an idiot yet again, and yet again purchased the wrong adapter. Excuse me while I go crawl into a hole for a few hours.

 

[aesthet1c]

Were you able to make the 4 Kickers work with the Metra mounting adapters on the front, and the writing harnesses? I'm hoping to do the same 4 speakers (in my 2024) to keep it simple but now I'm confused.

 

[gatornek]

Were you able to make the 4 Kickers work with the Metra mounting adapters on the front, and the writing harnesses? I'm hoping to do the same 4 speakers (in my 2024) to keep it simple but now I'm confused.

Yes. But I had to order the 82-5605. And then I had to trim the nodules off the bracket. You'll see what we mean, when you get them. But yes, the 82-5605 ended up working for me.

 

[aesthet1c]

Thank you! I ordered:

• Metra Electronics 82-5605 Rear 6.5-Inch Speaker Wire Wall Plate
• Metra Electronics 72-5602 4-Way Speaker Harness Connector (x2)
• Kicker 46CSC654 CS-Series CSC65 6.5-Inch (160mm) Coaxial Speakers (x2)

Yeah I think you're right, won't really know until I get the panels off and actually get into it. I know I may need to drill a hole in the side of the speaker plate adapter as well. Looking forward to it! Thanks again.

 

[gatornek]

Thank you! I ordered:

• Metra Electronics 82-5605 Rear 6.5-Inch Speaker Wire Wall Plate
• Metra Electronics 72-5602 4-Way Speaker Harness Connector (x2)
• Kicker 46CSC654 CS-Series CSC65 6.5-Inch (160mm) Coaxial Speakers (x2)

Yeah I think you're right, won't really know until I get the panels off and actually get into it. I know I may need to drill a hole in the side of the speaker plate adapter as well. Looking forward to it! Thanks again.

You're going to like those kickers. And I think you'll probably find them 'easier to fit' than the 6 3/4's I got. It's just a quarter of an inch, but it might give you enough depth to put in the kicker grills for extra protection. I kinda worry about them and 'weather' especially when its raining and the door is open, but so far so good.

Honestly, my most impressive piece of this setup was the Rockford Fosgate tweeters. They are awesome. They come with their own variable level attenuator, and I have it set for -2db, so when I crank the radio up a bit (which I'm now able to do a bit more with better quality speakers), they aren't chirping in my face.

I still have a 5 channel amp and subwoofer, that I have been EXTREMELY lazy about putting on.

Cheers. Let me know if any other questions. No prob.

 

[Slingy]

Thank you! I ordered:

• Metra Electronics 82-5605 Rear 6.5-Inch Speaker Wire Wall Plate
• Metra Electronics 72-5602 4-Way Speaker Harness Connector (x2)
• Kicker 46CSC654 CS-Series CSC65 6.5-Inch (160mm) Coaxial Speakers (x2)

Yeah I think you're right, won't really know until I get the panels off and actually get into it. I know I may need to drill a hole in the side of the speaker plate adapter as well. Looking forward to it! Thanks again.

This is what I did when I installed the Hertz X170 2 way speakers from Crutchfield. This is the same harness and bracket as yours. The first pic is a mockup and the second is the final installation. The tabs on the inside diameter of the mounting bracket are designed to snap off with a bit of thumb pressure (the bigger tabs requiring 2 thumbs of pressure). There is no need to use any kind of cutting device to remove them. If your thumbs don't work like they used to then a pair of pliers should do the trick. There's many different mounting options with all of the holes provided in the speaker as well as the holes provided in the bracket. It may take a few tries to find the best alignment for your particular speakers. This is the best I could come up with to make use of 4 screws rather than 3. I forget the drill bit size I used to make the hole for the pigtail but it was just big enough to allow the connectors to the speaker to pass through and no bigger. The only issue I ran into was that the screws that came with the speakers were too small for any of the bracket holes so I bought some stainless screws from HD and that did the trick.

 

[gatornek]

The only issue I ran into was that the screws that came with the speakers were too small for any of the bracket holes so I bought some stainless screws from HD and that did the trick.

Same.

 

[aesthet1c]

Ok, there may have been some confusion on my end.

I got one front door panel off and one rear panel door–it seems both FRONT and REAR need that 82-5605 speaker adapter plate. I read (other threads, Reddit posts, Youtube, etc.) that it was only the front. Maybe I misunderstood or maybe the 2021 and 2024 are different in that regard.

 

[aesthet1c]

Updating here, I did in fact need the 82-5605 speaker adapter plate for both front and rear in the 2024 Big Bend.

I only did the driver side front/back for now (waiting on extra speaker adapters) and unfortunately, immediately after install and listening, the front left speaker has a noticeable crackle–could it be because I only did the left side? Speakers are Kicker 46CSC654 CS-Series CSC65 6.5-Inch (160mm) Coaxial Speakers if that matters.

I tried adjusting some of the stock sound levels and if I remove bass completely, or put most of the sound in the rear of the car, it mostly goes away.. but the sound then feels off or weird.

Any ideas?

 

[gatornek]

@aesthet1c Sorry. Just seeing this now. I don't really think the model of the speakers matter, ANY speaker is an upgrade over those thimble size magnet stocks. I think yours and mine are the same except yours are 6 1/2 and mine are 6 3/4. The brackets are correct and yes, you needed them for front and rear. Sorry, didn't see that clearly indicated in your post when you first purchased.

I'm not sure what you mean by "crackle". Is this coming from the speaker itself, or it more a physical manifestation from the install work on the door?? I know that sometimes I feel that I should've laid some dynamat down, but that would've probably added at last a couple extra hours to my install since Im no dynamat genius and would've had to learn on the fly. If its emanating from the speaker, it might be the high coming from the tweeters. I'm telling you, my -4db attenuator is making those tweeters golden. I can't imagine if they were coming out at the default volume without the attenuator in place. My guess is you'r trying to turn up the volume on the stock radio to get an awesome sound, and those tweeters are killing it. Try disconnecting them, and see if it improves. YOu don't necesarily need them. I think a lot of people here end up disconnecting them. If you don't, you GOTTA attenuate them, like me. Some how. Some way. Good luck.

 

[aesthet1c]

Hey thanks @gatornek! Yeah by crackle I mean coming from the speaker, and only the front left. Not super loud necessarily, happens around volume 12-16ish (moderate level). I'll try installing the other 2 speakers and see if things balance out, and if not, maybe I'll look into how to disconnect the tweeters because I've read about that as well and that might make all the difference. Thanks again!

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