Project O'Bronco

[bjbena]

My bad, forgot about those things. They don't work in the rain on my EcoSport, any better on the BS?

How funny. My wife had a Titanium Ecosport and those things only worked in dry weather and ONLY if you pressed the sh*t out of them. Very unreliable.

Sponsored

 

[Osmo66]

Sidemarker lights.

It's bugged me since I test drove the Sport that the red and amber sidelamps don't blink. You can sort of see flashers from the side, but I wanted something more direct. Originally I was going to take the Ford trademark sideplates off and rig up some kind of LED with a Dremel and hot glue. Procrastination paid off with fortune in the form of 3rd party option. I bought a set of premade LED sidelights off Big Rainforest from a seller called DZG.

The lights are such a knock-off item, they failed to remove the molded in FoMoCo and part number on the back that they copied/stole the original molds from. Well, anyhow, you can at least be sure it will be a good fit. The lights came with spring metal clips and a foam backing, just like the OEM, except they have an enclosed LED. Also, the color accent carbon grey piece isn't there. It's just the black plastic. Well, it's give and take to have plug-and-play.

Well, thanks to HugeGuyTheory over on this post we have the schematic:
https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/turn-signals.4186/post-71432

My vehicle is wired exactly like that diagram. Can't speak to all BS ever built or that will ever be built, but pin #2 which is blu/grn on driver side and yel/vio over on passenger side along with pin #8 (ground) provide power to the amber blinker part of the headlight assembly. The power is fed from upstream via a switching relay (the transistor marked FET in schematic). When you mess with loads on stuff sometimes you get a goofy result. For my part, I didn't notice anything weird like faster blinking, voltage bleeds or dimmer lights by just tapping those wires.

I am a bit pedantic about auto electrical. It's just never fun when it has an issue or when something faults. So I tried to do as much as possible to make the install clean and secure. I invested in some convoluted wire loom from Harbor Freight, but you can overpay for it at most hardware stores and DIY supply houses. I don't know what Ford did, but there was a lot of papery, black, masking tape like stuff on the factory harness and it was doing nothing. So I just took it off. Then there is the harness loom. It is (partially) in a sort of fabric wrap. No wonder rodents think modern cars are a buffet! Anyways, I hot glued the wires at the LED opening to better secure them and then shoved the entire length into the convoluted stuff and used a few points of electrical tape to hold it all together. Here is a pic of basically all the tools I needed. I also used a utility knife and a soldering iron:

Here is where the harness connects to the headlamp assembly. If you look at the wire loom, you can see that papery masking tape junk that was on it. You squeeze the tab and pull the connector off. Make sure the headlamps have finished the cooling cycle and the fan is off. I looked at taking the connector apart and splicing inside there, but it is tiny and the wires that are in use fill the space up. So I am going to splice onto the wire mid-loom.

Taking the old accents off is a matter of pinching the spring metal clip and gently pulling. Open the door so you can get on one side. Under the hood there is a (foam?) block that is literally just stuffed in there. You can just pull it back, no adhesive, no anchors. I worked the pliers from inside the fender so I couldn't slip and gouge the paint on the side of the car! Here is the block pulled down and out a bit. The accent piece is right under where that block of foam normally rests where the light is coming through in the pic:

You have to press the insert in and that takes a bit of force. Support the fender and frame with one hand from behind (try not to bend) and press it in until the clip snaps into place. Once that was in, I pressed the blocker foam back and then zip-tied the harness along the fender well where I found good attachment points. I took this before I snipped the ties so it's obvious where some are. I used 4-5 on each side.

Here is the driver side loom. I notched out the insulation and wrapped the marker LED wires onto the harness wires. I strongly recommend this as the best way to splice. Connectors corrode and come loose. But if you want fast and dirty, you can buy snap on splice packs that cut in and do this for you. I offset the wires so the cuts are not on the same spot inside. Then solder the joint, wrap it with electrical tape and all of that gets stuffed into the convoluted loom. Reseat the harness and plug it back in.

Steps are all the same on passenger side except the correct wire #2 is a different color and working around the washer fluid bottle was a little extra challenge. A set of hook nose pliers instead of straight needle nose might be easier to get the bottom spring clip off, or maybe go in from the door side to get it. I managed to do it but it came out with a little more POP than I expected.

Total time invested: 2.25 hours. Total cost: $49 LED pair plus incidentals. Here is the proof shot:

Those look amazing. Thank you for sharing the steps. I'll have to take a shot once the weather gets warmer

 

[jnot2]

Sidemarker lights.

It's bugged me since I test drove the Sport that the red and amber sidelamps don't blink. You can sort of see flashers from the side, but I wanted something more direct. Originally I was going to take the Ford trademark sideplates off and rig up some kind of LED with a Dremel and hot glue. Procrastination paid off with fortune in the form of 3rd party option. I bought a set of premade LED sidelights off Big Rainforest from a seller called DZG.

The lights are such a knock-off item, they failed to remove the molded in FoMoCo and part number on the back that they copied/stole the original molds from. Well, anyhow, you can at least be sure it will be a good fit. The lights came with spring metal clips and a foam backing, just like the OEM, except they have an enclosed LED. Also, the color accent carbon grey piece isn't there. It's just the black plastic. Well, it's give and take to have plug-and-play.

Well, thanks to HugeGuyTheory over on this post we have the schematic:
https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/turn-signals.4186/post-71432

My vehicle is wired exactly like that diagram. Can't speak to all BS ever built or that will ever be built, but pin #2 which is blu/grn on driver side and yel/vio over on passenger side along with pin #8 (ground) provide power to the amber blinker part of the headlight assembly. The power is fed from upstream via a switching relay (the transistor marked FET in schematic). When you mess with loads on stuff sometimes you get a goofy result. For my part, I didn't notice anything weird like faster blinking, voltage bleeds or dimmer lights by just tapping those wires.

I am a bit pedantic about auto electrical. It's just never fun when it has an issue or when something faults. So I tried to do as much as possible to make the install clean and secure. I invested in some convoluted wire loom from Harbor Freight, but you can overpay for it at most hardware stores and DIY supply houses. I don't know what Ford did, but there was a lot of papery, black, masking tape like stuff on the factory harness and it was doing nothing. So I just took it off. Then there is the harness loom. It is (partially) in a sort of fabric wrap. No wonder rodents think modern cars are a buffet! Anyways, I hot glued the wires at the LED opening to better secure them and then shoved the entire length into the convoluted stuff and used a few points of electrical tape to hold it all together. Here is a pic of basically all the tools I needed. I also used a utility knife and a soldering iron:

Here is where the harness connects to the headlamp assembly. If you look at the wire loom, you can see that papery masking tape junk that was on it. You squeeze the tab and pull the connector off. Make sure the headlamps have finished the cooling cycle and the fan is off. I looked at taking the connector apart and splicing inside there, but it is tiny and the wires that are in use fill the space up. So I am going to splice onto the wire mid-loom.

Taking the old accents off is a matter of pinching the spring metal clip and gently pulling. Open the door so you can get on one side. Under the hood there is a (foam?) block that is literally just stuffed in there. You can just pull it back, no adhesive, no anchors. I worked the pliers from inside the fender so I couldn't slip and gouge the paint on the side of the car! Here is the block pulled down and out a bit. The accent piece is right under where that block of foam normally rests where the light is coming through in the pic:

You have to press the insert in and that takes a bit of force. Support the fender and frame with one hand from behind (try not to bend) and press it in until the clip snaps into place. Once that was in, I pressed the blocker foam back and then zip-tied the harness along the fender well where I found good attachment points. I took this before I snipped the ties so it's obvious where some are. I used 4-5 on each side.

Here is the driver side loom. I notched out the insulation and wrapped the marker LED wires onto the harness wires. I strongly recommend this as the best way to splice. Connectors corrode and come loose. But if you want fast and dirty, you can buy snap on splice packs that cut in and do this for you. I offset the wires so the cuts are not on the same spot inside. Then solder the joint, wrap it with electrical tape and all of that gets stuffed into the convoluted loom. Reseat the harness and plug it back in.

Steps are all the same on passenger side except the correct wire #2 is a different color and working around the washer fluid bottle was a little extra challenge. A set of hook nose pliers instead of straight needle nose might be easier to get the bottom spring clip off, or maybe go in from the door side to get it. I managed to do it but it came out with a little more POP than I expected.

Total time invested: 2.25 hours. Total cost: $49 LED pair plus incidentals. Here is the proof shot:

Do you have a link. Sorry if I missed it

 

[Glamdring70]

Do you have a link. Sorry if I missed it

I sussed out that maybe you mean the lights? This is the exact item I ordered,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09LCPMNJ1

 

[NVSport]

Sidemarker lights.

It's bugged me since I test drove the Sport that the red and amber sidelamps don't blink. You can sort of see flashers from the side, but I wanted something more direct. Originally I was going to take the Ford trademark sideplates off and rig up some kind of LED with a Dremel and hot glue. Procrastination paid off with fortune in the form of 3rd party option. I bought a set of premade LED sidelights off Big Rainforest from a seller called DZG.

The lights are such a knock-off item, they failed to remove the molded in FoMoCo and part number on the back that they copied/stole the original molds from. Well, anyhow, you can at least be sure it will be a good fit. The lights came with spring metal clips and a foam backing, just like the OEM, except they have an enclosed LED. Also, the color accent carbon grey piece isn't there. It's just the black plastic. Well, it's give and take to have plug-and-play.

Well, thanks to HugeGuyTheory over on this post we have the schematic:
https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/turn-signals.4186/post-71432

My vehicle is wired exactly like that diagram. Can't speak to all BS ever built or that will ever be built, but pin #2 which is blu/grn on driver side and yel/vio over on passenger side along with pin #8 (ground) provide power to the amber blinker part of the headlight assembly. The power is fed from upstream via a switching relay (the transistor marked FET in schematic). When you mess with loads on stuff sometimes you get a goofy result. For my part, I didn't notice anything weird like faster blinking, voltage bleeds or dimmer lights by just tapping those wires.

I am a bit pedantic about auto electrical. It's just never fun when it has an issue or when something faults. So I tried to do as much as possible to make the install clean and secure. I invested in some convoluted wire loom from Harbor Freight, but you can overpay for it at most hardware stores and DIY supply houses. I don't know what Ford did, but there was a lot of papery, black, masking tape like stuff on the factory harness and it was doing nothing. So I just took it off. Then there is the harness loom. It is (partially) in a sort of fabric wrap. No wonder rodents think modern cars are a buffet! Anyways, I hot glued the wires at the LED opening to better secure them and then shoved the entire length into the convoluted stuff and used a few points of electrical tape to hold it all together. Here is a pic of basically all the tools I needed. I also used a utility knife and a soldering iron:

Here is where the harness connects to the headlamp assembly. If you look at the wire loom, you can see that papery masking tape junk that was on it. You squeeze the tab and pull the connector off. Make sure the headlamps have finished the cooling cycle and the fan is off. I looked at taking the connector apart and splicing inside there, but it is tiny and the wires that are in use fill the space up. So I am going to splice onto the wire mid-loom.

Taking the old accents off is a matter of pinching the spring metal clip and gently pulling. Open the door so you can get on one side. Under the hood there is a (foam?) block that is literally just stuffed in there. You can just pull it back, no adhesive, no anchors. I worked the pliers from inside the fender so I couldn't slip and gouge the paint on the side of the car! Here is the block pulled down and out a bit. The accent piece is right under where that block of foam normally rests where the light is coming through in the pic:

You have to press the insert in and that takes a bit of force. Support the fender and frame with one hand from behind (try not to bend) and press it in until the clip snaps into place. Once that was in, I pressed the blocker foam back and then zip-tied the harness along the fender well where I found good attachment points. I took this before I snipped the ties so it's obvious where some are. I used 4-5 on each side.

Here is the driver side loom. I notched out the insulation and wrapped the marker LED wires onto the harness wires. I strongly recommend this as the best way to splice. Connectors corrode and come loose. But if you want fast and dirty, you can buy snap on splice packs that cut in and do this for you. I offset the wires so the cuts are not on the same spot inside. Then solder the joint, wrap it with electrical tape and all of that gets stuffed into the convoluted loom. Reseat the harness and plug it back in.

Steps are all the same on passenger side except the correct wire #2 is a different color and working around the washer fluid bottle was a little extra challenge. A set of hook nose pliers instead of straight needle nose might be easier to get the bottom spring clip off, or maybe go in from the door side to get it. I managed to do it but it came out with a little more POP than I expected.

Total time invested: 2.25 hours. Total cost: $49 LED pair plus incidentals. Here is the proof shot:

Thanks for this it was super helpful as I put mine on today. I couple of notes and tips for those who follow: I used a dab of quick glue where the wires enter the light housing. Use bent nose needle pliers they come of easy from the inside of the fender On both sides. The hardest one is at passenger bottom, just pull back the foam and turn it sideways. I used loom and zip ties over the wiring and to cover the factory harness were the tap splices were done. Leave yourself some room from the molex plug in case you need to fix/change in the future. I opted to tie into turn signals, and no issues at all. Some pics attached:

 

[cklapka]

Today I added to the rear. If you have access to a vinyl cutter or a home Silhouette or Cricut craft vinyl machine you can produce a variety of stuff for next to nothing but time. Aficionados will see that the Badlands badge is not a 100% reproduction of a Ford badge/sticker. But the "correct" Ford one at $45 is just more than I want to spend so this is a $1 knockoff creation made at home. I like the better balance with more badging, and the price is right to peel it up and do it over again to make a change. Perhaps making the Bronco horse a carbon grey instead of black.

I am still mulling over the lettering. I don't want the white letters. The options are to paint them or vinyl cover them. Again I am weighing a carbon black color (like the grill) vs. a gloss or matte black. I am also thinking about just coving the faces and leaving the white edges so it's more like the factory Badlands badging.

I'm still messing with the vinyl options and did this as another test idea. I like the life the outline gives to it and I think I am going to shop for some material that is closer to the wheels than the solid color.

When you are using the circuit are you using a specific type of vinyl? Just wondering if UV or heat is something that I would have to be worried about if I did something similar?

 

[Glamdring70]

When you are using the circuit are you using a specific type of vinyl? Just wondering if UV or heat is something that I would have to be worried about if I did something similar?

The badge and logo were cut from standard Oracal 651. The Bronco horses I have redone since the post you quoted. Not from failure, but I wanted a metallic finish vinyl. So I redid them in 3M metallic. I have driven in temperatures between 25f and 107f and they're all still stuck well. My car spends most of its time in the garage to be honest. Let it sit for 24 hours after you apply it before washing or temperature extremes.

 

[cklapka]

The badge and logo were cut from standard Oracal 651. The Bronco horses I have redone since the post you quoted. Not from failure, but I wanted a metallic finish vinyl. So I redid them in 3M metallic. I have driven in temperatures between 25f and 107f and they're all still stuck well. My car spends most of its time in the garage to be honest. Let it sit for 24 hours after you apply it before washing or temperature extremes.

Thanks, it looks like both those are outdoor rated, so I will go with something similar.

 

[Pmk1710]

Thanks for all the details. Followed them all and got my set working perfectly.

 

[compass crusher]

I wrote earlier about vinyl options and what you can do with a home operation. I was going back and forth on a grey like the grill, but settled on black. I picked up 30' of this Oracal 651 matte black for about $20. If you order elsewhere, you can get it cheaper than at Big Rainforest, but it's slower. That gave time to work out some designs. This was pieced together out of several silhouettes and sized to fit the Bronco. I used a sheet of butcher paper over the body to trace the contours, breaks, and interference areas like fender and badge and handles. The hardest part was waiting for the materials to arrive. The designs were made with a combination of Illustrator and the Cricut software and then cut and installed at home. This probably represents 9 hours of install and like 2 more of the machine cutting.

The hood graphic was hand made. It proved difficult to correctly follow all the curves on the hood edge and the deflector. The bumps grow from about 6" by the windshield to 8" at the front so this is like a trapezoid with 3 French curve sides. I printed out a template on paper to test the hood graphics. I pieced all the prints together into an accurate size of the creation. Then I measured and used blue painter's tape to section off the area so there was a solid reference to lay down the vinyl.

Like the Bronco logo I put on the back, I decided to put a hood ornament on the deflector. I've gone back and forth with the letters. I saw a really good looking orange with orange letters, but it must have been FE because it had black edges. The white on front really stands out and goes well with the light bars IMO. So maybe I will leave that alone?

I'm still struggling with the BRONCO SPORT on the back. It's proving difficult to run down a good template. There are a lot to find with Google, but they do a poor job following the contours satisfactorily. It's still stock white and top of my list of things to "correct". But I'm super pleased with how much the add-ons break up the orange areas.

Looks great?

 

[compass crusher]

Putting these on today?, Amazon was sold out for a week and there now back in stock. Thank you for all the info.

 

[mooredl1]

Sidemarker lights.

It's bugged me since I test drove the Sport that the red and amber sidelamps don't blink. You can sort of see flashers from the side, but I wanted something more direct. Originally I was going to take the Ford trademark sideplates off and rig up some kind of LED with a Dremel and hot glue. Procrastination paid off with fortune in the form of 3rd party option. I bought a set of premade LED sidelights off Big Rainforest from a seller called DZG.

The lights are such a knock-off item, they failed to remove the molded in FoMoCo and part number on the back that they copied/stole the original molds from. Well, anyhow, you can at least be sure it will be a good fit. The lights came with spring metal clips and a foam backing, just like the OEM, except they have an enclosed LED. Also, the color accent carbon grey piece isn't there. It's just the black plastic. Well, it's give and take to have plug-and-play.

Well, thanks to HugeGuyTheory over on this post we have the schematic:
https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/turn-signals.4186/post-71432

My vehicle is wired exactly like that diagram. Can't speak to all BS ever built or that will ever be built, but pin #2 which is blu/grn on driver side and yel/vio over on passenger side along with pin #8 (ground) provide power to the amber blinker part of the headlight assembly. The power is fed from upstream via a switching relay (the transistor marked FET in schematic). When you mess with loads on stuff sometimes you get a goofy result. For my part, I didn't notice anything weird like faster blinking, voltage bleeds or dimmer lights by just tapping those wires.

I am a bit pedantic about auto electrical. It's just never fun when it has an issue or when something faults. So I tried to do as much as possible to make the install clean and secure. I invested in some convoluted wire loom from Harbor Freight, but you can overpay for it at most hardware stores and DIY supply houses. I don't know what Ford did, but there was a lot of papery, black, masking tape like stuff on the factory harness and it was doing nothing. So I just took it off. Then there is the harness loom. It is (partially) in a sort of fabric wrap. No wonder rodents think modern cars are a buffet! Anyways, I hot glued the wires at the LED opening to better secure them and then shoved the entire length into the convoluted stuff and used a few points of electrical tape to hold it all together. Here is a pic of basically all the tools I needed. I also used a utility knife and a soldering iron:

Here is where the harness connects to the headlamp assembly. If you look at the wire loom, you can see that papery masking tape junk that was on it. You squeeze the tab and pull the connector off. Make sure the headlamps have finished the cooling cycle and the fan is off. I looked at taking the connector apart and splicing inside there, but it is tiny and the wires that are in use fill the space up. So I am going to splice onto the wire mid-loom.

Taking the old accents off is a matter of pinching the spring metal clip and gently pulling. Open the door so you can get on one side. Under the hood there is a (foam?) block that is literally just stuffed in there. You can just pull it back, no adhesive, no anchors. I worked the pliers from inside the fender so I couldn't slip and gouge the paint on the side of the car! Here is the block pulled down and out a bit. The accent piece is right under where that block of foam normally rests where the light is coming through in the pic:

You have to press the insert in and that takes a bit of force. Support the fender and frame with one hand from behind (try not to bend) and press it in until the clip snaps into place. Once that was in, I pressed the blocker foam back and then zip-tied the harness along the fender well where I found good attachment points. I took this before I snipped the ties so it's obvious where some are. I used 4-5 on each side.

Here is the driver side loom. I notched out the insulation and wrapped the marker LED wires onto the harness wires. I strongly recommend this as the best way to splice. Connectors corrode and come loose. But if you want fast and dirty, you can buy snap on splice packs that cut in and do this for you. I offset the wires so the cuts are not on the same spot inside. Then solder the joint, wrap it with electrical tape and all of that gets stuffed into the convoluted loom. Reseat the harness and plug it back in.

Steps are all the same on passenger side except the correct wire #2 is a different color and working around the washer fluid bottle was a little extra challenge. A set of hook nose pliers instead of straight needle nose might be easier to get the bottom spring clip off, or maybe go in from the door side to get it. I managed to do it but it came out with a little more POP than I expected.

Total time invested: 2.25 hours. Total cost: $49 LED pair plus incidentals. Here is the proof shot:

Thanks for the time you invested in this post. I have recently purchased the lights, and am about to put them in. You had some some excellent ideas. Any follow you would ad?

 

[Glamdring70]

Thanks for the time you invested in this post. I have recently purchased the lights, and am about to put them in. You had some some excellent ideas. Any follow you would ad?

Nah. A couple other people posted their installs too, for anyone looking for more pics. They're still working and haven't popped off or anything. Next I want to get the signal to give more than three blinks but I learned that's possible with ForScan. Some cars let you do it with a user-selectable setting. But Sync 3 on a Ford, nooooo.

 

[Renee Soss]

Sidemarker lights.

It's bugged me since I test drove the Sport that the red and amber sidelamps don't blink. You can sort of see flashers from the side, but I wanted something more direct. Originally I was going to take the Ford trademark sideplates off and rig up some kind of LED with a Dremel and hot glue. Procrastination paid off with fortune in the form of 3rd party option. I bought a set of premade LED sidelights off Big Rainforest from a seller called DZG.

The lights are such a knock-off item, they failed to remove the molded in FoMoCo and part number on the back that they copied/stole the original molds from. Well, anyhow, you can at least be sure it will be a good fit. The lights came with spring metal clips and a foam backing, just like the OEM, except they have an enclosed LED. Also, the color accent carbon grey piece isn't there. It's just the black plastic. Well, it's give and take to have plug-and-play.

Well, thanks to HugeGuyTheory over on this post we have the schematic:
https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/turn-signals.4186/post-71432

My vehicle is wired exactly like that diagram. Can't speak to all BS ever built or that will ever be built, but pin #2 which is blu/grn on driver side and yel/vio over on passenger side along with pin #8 (ground) provide power to the amber blinker part of the headlight assembly. The power is fed from upstream via a switching relay (the transistor marked FET in schematic). When you mess with loads on stuff sometimes you get a goofy result. For my part, I didn't notice anything weird like faster blinking, voltage bleeds or dimmer lights by just tapping those wires.

I am a bit pedantic about auto electrical. It's just never fun when it has an issue or when something faults. So I tried to do as much as possible to make the install clean and secure. I invested in some convoluted wire loom from Harbor Freight, but you can overpay for it at most hardware stores and DIY supply houses. I don't know what Ford did, but there was a lot of papery, black, masking tape like stuff on the factory harness and it was doing nothing. So I just took it off. Then there is the harness loom. It is (partially) in a sort of fabric wrap. No wonder rodents think modern cars are a buffet! Anyways, I hot glued the wires at the LED opening to better secure them and then shoved the entire length into the convoluted stuff and used a few points of electrical tape to hold it all together. Here is a pic of basically all the tools I needed. I also used a utility knife and a soldering iron:

Here is where the harness connects to the headlamp assembly. If you look at the wire loom, you can see that papery masking tape junk that was on it. You squeeze the tab and pull the connector off. Make sure the headlamps have finished the cooling cycle and the fan is off. I looked at taking the connector apart and splicing inside there, but it is tiny and the wires that are in use fill the space up. So I am going to splice onto the wire mid-loom.

Taking the old accents off is a matter of pinching the spring metal clip and gently pulling. Open the door so you can get on one side. Under the hood there is a (foam?) block that is literally just stuffed in there. You can just pull it back, no adhesive, no anchors. I worked the pliers from inside the fender so I couldn't slip and gouge the paint on the side of the car! Here is the block pulled down and out a bit. The accent piece is right under where that block of foam normally rests where the light is coming through in the pic:

You have to press the insert in and that takes a bit of force. Support the fender and frame with one hand from behind (try not to bend) and press it in until the clip snaps into place. Once that was in, I pressed the blocker foam back and then zip-tied the harness along the fender well where I found good attachment points. I took this before I snipped the ties so it's obvious where some are. I used 4-5 on each side.

Here is the driver side loom. I notched out the insulation and wrapped the marker LED wires onto the harness wires. I strongly recommend this as the best way to splice. Connectors corrode and come loose. But if you want fast and dirty, you can buy snap on splice packs that cut in and do this for you. I offset the wires so the cuts are not on the same spot inside. Then solder the joint, wrap it with electrical tape and all of that gets stuffed into the convoluted loom. Reseat the harness and plug it back in.

Steps are all the same on passenger side except the correct wire #2 is a different color and working around the washer fluid bottle was a little extra challenge. A set of hook nose pliers instead of straight needle nose might be easier to get the bottom spring clip off, or maybe go in from the door side to get it. I managed to do it but it came out with a little more POP than I expected.

Total time invested: 2.25 hours. Total cost: $49 LED pair plus incidentals. Here is the proof shot:

Wow, what a great thread you posted, especially pics and the video. Thank you.

 

[Codysooz]

I would be interested in seeing how these would operate. DRL lights until you pull the turn signal then they flip to amber lights.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VD794H5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KTG7Y9KB45STR8BSZ2QB

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