Max speed when in 4WD?

Mark S.

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Of course using the brakes isn’t the same as locking the 4 wheels as the Badlands can do on command which can be a hugely important feature.
Absolutely, you just don't want to do that on dry pavement. OP mentioned driving "in and out of snow covered roads." The owner's manual says driving with 4WD or the rear diff locked on dry pavement can damage the system, so in changing conditions where part of the pavement is slippery and part is dry I would use NORMAL or ECO and let the system work. If the conditions warrant by all means lock things up and/or use the appropriate GOAT mode, just be mindful of the limitations.
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Badlanders

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Absolutely, you just don't want to do that on dry pavement. OP mentioned driving "in and out of snow covered roads." The owner's manual says driving with 4WD or the rear diff locked on dry pavement can damage the system, so in changing conditions where part of the pavement is slippery and part is dry I would use NORMAL or ECO and let the system work. If the conditions warrant by all means lock things up and/or use the appropriate GOAT mode, just be mindful of the limitations.
Flashback!
I remember reading a long time ago, before sensors, computers and electronic controls. Heck, the transfer case may have been connected to the trans with a driveshaft, not bolted to it. You drive into an area in 2-wheeldrive, and use 4-wheeldrive to get out of a situation / unstuck. Yes, I've a few miles on me, 1st 4x4 was a '68 Bronco, and there's been a 4x4 in the stable since.

Not sure how current 4x4's are set-up as far as front / rear drive ratios. The front used to be a bit lower vs rear say 4.11 vs 4.10. So the front was pulling a bit vs being pushed, for control. Get out onto pavement, even hardpack, you knew you were in 4x. Today's systems there is some slippage designed in. Agree though - 4x4 on dry pavement is not what you want to do.
 
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I think slippery is best on snow packed or icy streets and mud/ruts or sand mode is for deeper snow.
 

Osco

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I think slippery is best on snow packed or icy streets and mud/ruts or sand mode is for deeper snow.
You won’t hurt a thing using slippery anytine or anywhere as it just numbs the throttle/gas pedal responsiveness. It is very effective.
Sand mode should only be used in deep sand.
IMHO Eco is about as useful as hen shit on a pump handle.
 

kingtj

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Honestly, if you're driving in a lot of sand (like on a beach), I imagine the same advice applies as did for my Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. Was always best to air down the tires to maybe 18-20psi, and to put them back at the manufacturer recommended pressure when you were ready to get back onto pavement again.

They sell nifty little devices you screw onto the valve stem of each tire that let air out until it reaches a pre-set pressure. Something like these would work:

https://www.amazon.com/Real-4X4-Deflators-Vehicles-Wranglers/dp/B077JGKYG4/ref=asc_df_B077JGKYG4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312075398870&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8093061881585146159&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9022297&hvtargid=pla-567726810846&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62497261659&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312075398870&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8093061881585146159&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9022297&hvtargid=pla-567726810846

That should do FAR more for you than any GOAT mode. You'll want to be sure to carry a decent tire inflator with you though.
 


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Goinbroke2

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Airing down is a great tip, but don’t dismiss the goat modes as they do more than just lock diffs, they also control throttle sensitivity as well and a bit more. My first bronco was a 74 and the very last first gen I drove was a 68 too!
Everything used to be solid lock/unlock and was mechanical like a transmission or rearend. Then permanent 4wd with a diff in the transfer case.( so everybody in the 70’s bought warn hubs so you could unlock an axle for better mileage) Then we went to clutch engaged 4wd with explorers for example. Choices were auto/4l/4h where auto was rear wheel drive until slippage was detected then the clutch would engage on the fly.
Now, instead of 3 or 4 gears and high/low range, you have 7-10 gears and no low range. Does this matter? Well, let’s use facts not feelings;
First gear high range in a 06 ranger with 3.50 rear end:
1st gear is 3.40:1
High range is 1:1
Rear end is 3.5:1
= crawl ratio of 11.9
Low range
1st gear 3.40:1
Low range is 2.48:1
Rear gear is 3.5:1
= crawl ratio of 29.5

Bronco sport;
1st gear is 4.69
Rear gear is 3.81
= crawl ratio of 17.9:1
Not as low as low range but the two lower gears in the BS get you lower than just stock “high range”. Which means bigger tires won’t make it a dog like putting 35’s on a stock 4x4 with 3:1 rearend.
is it the ultimate off road rig? No and it’s not meant to be. But just as I’ve shown up in my 2wd pickup in places people with side by sides are struggling, momentum is your friend and the driver is way more important than anything else.

oh, and with a turbo motor, you can’t rock the bs like you do anything else. You can’t put it in gear and rock it as you have zero power and it just bogs. But if you torque it up in gear with the brakes for a second, it’s like the difference of a small block and a big block😂😂😂

Another thing, don’t use slippery if you are going through drifts as it will kill power. Use mud and lock the diff, now it won’t kill power when it spins and won’t put on traction control, so lock the rear diff and nail it!

(very capable in the right hands)
 

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Great suggestions and explanations. Hopefully the OP will realize the newfound grip, but when they stop, they will be at a reasonable speed that won't have them sliding through snow or ice. Grip and traction is one thing, but knowing that you have to stop eventually is another!
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