Fixable?

OP
OP

Pmk1710

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That may not hit the threshold before insurance companies total it. It would be interesting to find out what the insurance/lien holder does.
I mean, I’m trying to remain optimistic. But after looking at build schematics as well as already doing my own Mods/alterations to the car, I’m leaning towards loss.

It’s definitely not in my control, but after looking at what parts I assume is needed, I’m seeing a lot of $ build up as well as huge “Back Order” lists. Not to mention the collision garage my insurance is sending it to tells me that they are 4-6 weeks out with repair labor availability (if applicable).

If it were up to me, looking at all costs involved (ie Rental coverage, garage storage fee,”possible” repair, parts fees, etc)… I would say move on. Why waste 3+ months of expenses when you can cut your losses and let me go get another BS.
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Bill G

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Sorry to see that kind of damage but glad you came out in one piece.
you can have repairs made at the shop of your choice. When I didn’t want a car back I had a shop I went to — their motto was “Price has no quality and quality has no price”. They did a lot of work on Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porsche, etc. Insurance only repaired one car — and it was perfect (and I only drove Ford, Chevy, etc.).
wish you luck which ever way you go.
 

Kraken23

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Distracted driver?
 

FakeCowboy

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I had $4k in damage from a medium sized tree branch falling on my hood and fender.....just my opinion but I'm thinking that's totalled. Glad you're okay
 


baja_bob

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A friends Ford Escape got totaled from being hit the same way. Even if fixed it wouldn't be the same, like trying to straighten out a crushed beer can.
 

C&C&C=The 3 Amigos !

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You don't want to play the branded title game, salvage, rebuilt or rebuildable titles don't work in your favor. If you really think the unibody has been compromised, you do not want that vehicle back, let it be someone else's problem.
:rolleyes: He is correct about the branded title :oops: The two dealership I have worked for would not take that in for a trade o_O
 

Escape2Bronco

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:rolleyes: He is correct about the branded title :oops: The two dealership I have worked for would not take that in for a trade o_O
Absolutely, but.... if you are planning to keep it, then you cannot beat it. I did it and would do it again in a heartbeat. My daughter drove that savaged title car through high school and college and put 150K miles on it. It cost me less than 2K for that car. In the end, Ford refused to put it up on the lift because the rear clip was failing due to rust (Wisconsin winters). The car was 15 years old with nearly 200K miles on it. The junk yard gave me 500 for it. I still consider it one of the best cars as far as cost per mile that I ever had.

I do tend to drive my cars until they get totaled or die of old age so there is that. But, if you like having a reliable beater to drive to the grocery store or such, it's a cheap way of getting a good second vehicle.
 

C&C&C=The 3 Amigos !

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Absolutely, but.... if you are planning to keep it, then you cannot beat it. I did it and would do it again in a heartbeat. My daughter drove that savaged title car through high school and college and put 150K miles on it. It cost me less than 2K for that car. In the end, Ford refused to put it up on the lift because the rear clip was failing due to rust (Wisconsin winters). The car was 15 years old with nearly 200K miles on it. The junk yard gave me 500 for it. I still consider it one of the best cars as far as cost per mile that I ever had.

I do tend to drive my cars until they get totaled or die of old age so there is that. But, if you like having a reliable beater to drive to the grocery store or such, it's a cheap way of getting a good second vehicle.
:) Your 100% correct :handsinair: If you plan to keep it for yourself or a family member :clap: It's almost priceless this day and age with what has been going on in the car market :crazy:
LoL and I get it with ( WI Winters ) I was right next door in MN for 42 yrs ❄ Now in IN ❄ It's not
as bad :clap: as WI or MN o_O So yes if the insurance company does total it out and I would think they
would total it out but I'm a nobody that ? the smilies faces on here ? So if the insurance co will offer to sell it back to them at a good price :oops: I would be all over that in a ? beat. You got a
great deal cause you did keep it and made good use out of it ? and not tried to trade it in .
 

Bronco2.7

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I mean, I’m trying to remain optimistic. But after looking at build schematics as well as already doing my own Mods/alterations to the car, I’m leaning towards loss.

It’s definitely not in my control, but after looking at what parts I assume is needed, I’m seeing a lot of $ build up as well as huge “Back Order” lists. Not to mention the collision garage my insurance is sending it to tells me that they are 4-6 weeks out with repair labor availability (if applicable).

If it were up to me, looking at all costs involved (ie Rental coverage, garage storage fee,”possible” repair, parts fees, etc)… I would say move on. Why waste 3+ months of expenses when you can cut your losses and let me go get another BS.
Isn't this a case for the other guys insurance?
 


OP
OP

Pmk1710

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Isn't this a case for the other guys insurance?
yeah, like hell I’m paying for any of the repair. I’ll even make the 3 other cars pay restitution for my deductible.
still puts me without my BS for an unknown amount of time.
I’ve gotten 50/50 on repairable or not, but now I’m looking at the whole picture and costs:
Insurance pays for my rental - $40/day
Insurance pays for parts - $unknown (back order status)
Insurance pays for Repair Labor - 4 weeks out after estimate (pending potential part back order status/delivery)
Insurance pays Collision Center Storage - $50/day after estimate

I’m already Seeing a minimum $2700 just in rental and storage.And that all factors into total repair cost. I’d rather not wait and just take the total loss payout and go get another one tomorrow opposed to the whole waiting game.
 
OP
OP

Pmk1710

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Final repair estimate:

$15,284.57

Based on California Total Loss formula… it could go either way…

ACV = Ballpark $26-27k
Salvage Value = $10-15k


So I guess it’s insurance’s decision now…
If Salvage + Repair totals under the ACV, then it’s a keeper, but if not… back to the dealership!

Maybe I upgrade to the full size?
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