Battery Voltage Reading

[Leeford]

I've been having a issue with the auto start stop not activating due to a message I get on the screen telling me that the battery is charging. I went out one morning and tested the battery, 11.88v...When I'm running the engine, 14.9v. After running the engine for 30 minutes and after turning the engine off, 12.47v. Is this normal?

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[thekingprawn]

Best bet is ask your dealership, but being in Ontario the temperature will negatively affect battery voltage. It looks like the charging voltage is good, but I'm uncertain what the specifications of the battery itself are.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

I've been having a issue with the auto start stop not activating due to a message I get on the screen telling me that the battery is charging. I went out one morning and tested the battery, 11.88v...When I'm running the engine, 14.9v. After running the engine for 30 minutes and after turning the engine off, 12.47v. Is this normal?

Hi there – send a message to us with your VIN and approximate mileage. I’ll look into this for you. Thanks!

 

[Leeford]

Hi there – send a message to us with your VIN and approximate mileage. I’ll look into this for you. Thanks!

I'm from Ontario Canada and you've pointed out that your a US based "help" line from previous contact. Is there a Canadian version?

 

[Mark S.]

I've been having a issue with the auto start stop not activating due to a message I get on the screen telling me that the battery is charging. I went out one morning and tested the battery, 11.88v...When I'm running the engine, 14.9v. After running the engine for 30 minutes and after turning the engine off, 12.47v. Is this normal?

A fully charged battery should be >12.5v. The alternator should output 14.5-15.0v. 11.88v is near the bottom of the range for engine start. If you start your car with the battery that low it will take time to recharge it up to the normal range. During that time the auto start/stop will not function because the battery may not have enough voltage to restart the engine.

It sounds to me like your battery needs to be replace, but you should take it to your dealer and have them load test it.

 

[Leeford]

A fully charged battery should be >12.5v. The alternator should output 14.5-15.0v. 11.88v is near the bottom of the range for engine start. If you start your car with the battery that low it will take time to recharge it up to the normal range. During that time the auto start/stop will not function because the battery may not have enough voltage to restart the engine.

It sounds to me like your battery needs to be replace, but you should take it to your dealer and have them load test it.

Thanks...I have appointment time with Ford tomorrow. I will bring in my observations and yours!

 

[NMhunter]

Let us know what the dealer tells you. In the winter, if I'm takking short trips every day (3.5 miles one way) I run in a lower gear to keep engine revs up enough to charge the battery and warm the oil. I've been told that not getting your vehicle up to temperature creates crud in the engine, and rusts out your exhaust system. Notice on cold mornings all of the steam coming out of exhaut pipes until the engine warms up.

Google battery voltage chart. 11.88 volts is 30 -40% (depending on which chart you read). Any time you discharge a lead acid battery below 50%, you are shortening its life. In the old days, they said it took 5 miles of driving to recharge a battery after starting an engine. New vehicles are better and alternators put out high voltage at low rpms, but it still takes some driving to recharge after starting.

 

[LilbroncoS]

Hi there – send a message to us with your VIN and approximate mileage. I’ll look into this for you. Thanks!

I have same issue 2 or 3 times a week where i have to go manually start vehicle. Something about conserving battery on message.

 

[Benanza]

I've been having a issue with the auto start stop not activating due to a message I get on the screen telling me that the battery is charging. I went out one morning and tested the battery, 11.88v...When I'm running the engine, 14.9v. After running the engine for 30 minutes and after turning the engine off, 12.47v. Is this normal?

I am having the same issue, I just thought it was winter but even after driving for hours and testing it it still doesn't activate with all the accessories off. I go into the shop Friday for this issue plus routine service and a couple recalls.

 

[magicbus]

I recently went through this after having my battery disconnected for 6 weeks while on vacation. I finally threw a charger on it and it solved the problem. Note that most of my trips are short due to where we live and my wife’s Explorer has the same issue.

I was a bit shocked when I opened the driver’s door with the charger connected and the meter jumped over 4 amps and stayed up until all of the noises such as the headlight fans and the miscellaneous clickings stopped.

 

[Leeford]

Let us know what the dealer tells you. In the winter, if I'm takking short trips every day (3.5 miles one way) I run in a lower gear to keep engine revs up enough to charge the battery and warm the oil. I've been told that not getting your vehicle up to temperature creates crud in the engine, and rusts out your exhaust system. Notice on cold mornings all of the steam coming out of exhaut pipes until the engine warms up.

Google battery voltage chart. 11.88 volts is 30 -40% (depending on which chart you read). Any time you discharge a lead acid battery below 50%, you are shortening its life. In the old days, they said it took 5 miles of driving to recharge a battery after starting an engine. New vehicles are better and alternators put out high voltage at low rpms, but it still takes some driving to recharge after starting.

The dealer replaced the battery without actually admitting that it was the problem. Under warranty. It appeared to work like it should. Well, we are in a cold snap and the damn thing is not working again. I will be going out today to ride it longer than my usual short trips to evaluate it. Will report my findings. Before I go, I'll test the battery and if and when it auto stops.
One of the sales guys did point out that the auto system only will work when the voltage is up at 14.6 and consistent.

 

[Leeford]

I am having the same issue, I just thought it was winter but even after driving for hours and testing it it still doesn't activate with all the accessories off. I go into the shop Friday for this issue plus routine service and a couple recalls.

Keep us up to date please

 

[Ford Motor Company]

I recently went through this after having my battery disconnected for 6 weeks while on vacation. I finally threw a charger on it and it solved the problem. Note that most of my trips are short due to where we live and my wife’s Explorer has the same issue.

I was a bit shocked when I opened the driver’s door with the charger connected and the meter jumped over 4 amps and stayed up until all of the noises such as the headlight fans and the miscellaneous clickings stopped.

Hi there! Can you send us a DM with more information? I’ll see how I can assist on my end. Thank you!

 

[Deleted member 6599]

My vehicle keeps going into deep sleep mode. Just ordered a battery charger. Hoping that’ll get her juiced up again.

 

[Glamdring70]

Anecdotally, either the factory battery, or the alternator in the vehicle is crap. Or more precisely, it isn't up to the task the vehicle demands. I have a float charger that I put on anytime I'm going to park for two or more days or else the battery will run down. The various stuff the car does while off, even running the headlamp fans for no apparent reason seems to be too much of a draw. You can get upgraded batteries with better reserve power. I will do that when this one is shot. It isn't barely a year old and I garage the car (constant 50 degrees or warmer) and it still does this.

You definitely need the battery to be tip-top. I took a day trip once and made use of the 110v inverter and accessory power while parked at the beach. The ride home was interesting. The battery dipped down enough that the various warning chimes and stuff that the car generates were the wrong tone. Like, low pitch and slow sounding but volume was fine. It didn't straighten itself out in a 70 mile journey of alternator use. I had to put it on the float overnight and the next day, the chimes were back to normal. After that, I got a voltmeter that plugs into the 12v port. It's just a voltmeter so all it really shows is how much juice the alternator is pumping out or battery voltage with engine stopped. Beats having zero clue though.

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