B&O Audio Interface

[Pintarrr]

Has anyone successfully bypassed the factory amp using an audio interface? (I hope I'm even saying that right.)
I over estimated my abilities with car audio and didn't take into account the A²B system that Ford uses. There were definitely some lessons learned, so hopefully someone learns from my mistakes!

I bought an Axxess AXDSPX-A2B2 (https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AXDSPX-A2B2) to bypass the factory B&O amplifier/DSP, but the Axxess 20-pin female connector's bottom slot doesn't line up with the factory male connector, figured I'd see what the options are before I start filing the connector or splicing wires.

It seems like the NAV TV product could be compatible, (https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT889/zen-a2b-dsp12a-a2b.html) it has the Bronco and Escape listed, has anyone tried using that yet? Probably the next step if I can't get the Axxess working.

The whole point of this is to have my own DSP dialing in the sound, since I don't think we can make changes to the B&O DSP. I originally bought a JBL DSP4086 thinking that's all I would need, I guess we'll see what happens when an amp with a built-in DSP is powering another DSP audio interface.

EDIT: I've replaced all the speakers in the car, including a downfiring 6.5" Skar subwoofer I built a box for and tapped into the existing subwoofer wires. The instructions for both interface manufacturers say to remove the existing factory amp, as it is replaced by the interface and then powered by an additional amp of your choosing, mine hopefully being the JBL DSP4086.

EDIT 7/14/22: Here's what the connector looks like that needs to be modified. I tried to highlight how the black male connector from the car, the one that plugs into the factory amp, has a ridge that is off-center and won't fit into the gray female connector with a slot in the center that comes with the kit. It looks ugly, but when I checked the fitment of it, they connected perfectly so I left it alone. You're basically just trying to widen that center slot just enough to get the off-center ridge into there, it won't take much to widen it enough to fit.

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[RiotfunK]

You’re better off just bypassing the shitty oem amp and going with a new one and better speakers. Hell even just swapping the 4 door speakers and adding a lil amp would be 100x better.

 

[Pintarrr]

You’re better off just bypassing the shitty oem amp and going with a new one and better speakers. Hell even just swapping the 4 door speakers and adding a lil amp would be 100x better.

That's the plan, already replaced every speaker, just trying to keep things like the chime and voice commands still working.

 

[Pintarrr]

Alright, for anyone wondering, I used the Axxess interface to bypass the B&O factory amp, I just had to cut a slot with my Dremel into the Axxess' female connector so the male connector tab could fit into it. I also had to select "2020 - 2022 Escape" on the Axxess app when I was setting it up, seems to work better than the "Bronco" option, and there isn't an option for the Sport yet. Haven't heard the rear parking sensor yet, but the chimes and the voice commands all work. The fake engine noise still gets pumped in when the music is off, but I don't think the front tweeters or center channel are working at the moment, I'm still working on that.

Anyway, hopefully someone in the future might look at this in a Google search when they're ready to completely overhaul their B&O sound system in a Bronco Sport.

Update 7/12/22: The reverse sensor chime works as it did before. I have noticed my phone, a Motorola RAZR 5G, is now having trouble connecting to the head unit Bluetooth, but it does eventually connect after a couple of tries. The other bug I noticed is the head unit sound settings default to having the fader and balance to the front right, I'll keep playing around with settings in a few days and see what I can come up with.

Update 7/15/22: My phone will Bluetooth just fine now, and Android Auto works as it did. Still no fix for the head unit defaulting the Fader and Balancer to the front right.

 

[Mark S.]

Alright, for anyone wondering, I used the Axxess interface to bypass the B&O factory amp, I just had to cut a slot with my Dremel into the Axxess' female connector so the male connector tab could fit into it. I also had to select "2020 - 2022 Escape" on the Axxess app when I was setting it up, seems to work better than the "Bronco" option, and there isn't an option for the Sport yet. Haven't heard the rear parking sensor yet, but the chimes and the voice commands all work. The fake engine noise still gets pumped in when the music is off, but I don't think the front tweeters or center channel are working at the moment, I'm still working on that.

Anyway, hopefully someone in the future might look at this in a Google search when they're ready to completely overhaul their B&O sound system in a Bronco Sport.

Some photos of the connectors you are referring to would be grand.

 

[Pintarrr]

Some photos of the connectors you are referring to would be grand.

Sure, it'll be a couple days but I'll add some to the first post. It was the only modification I had to do, everything else fit and wired together perfectly.

 

[2XIPA]

I'm enjoying this thread. Would you happen to have any picture's of the right hand panel in the back removed showing the subwoofer? I'm curious that if the B&O subwoofer was removed a small subwoofer could be installed in it's place? e.g;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PVVL5G4/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A270FEYNWLVOMA&psc=1 It's 4.63 x 9 x 2.75 inches

 

[Pintarrr]

I'm enjoying this thread. Would you happen to have any picture's of the right hand panel in the back removed showing the subwoofer? I'm curious that if the B&O subwoofer was removed a small subwoofer could be installed in it's place? e.g;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PVVL5G4/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A270FEYNWLVOMA&psc=1 It's 4.63 x 9 x 2.75 inches

I'll get a picture of that, the factory sub mounted and unmounted, and the factory amp location on the other side. That downfiring sub looks like a great idea, I think mounting it to the floor would be the best option anyway. Hopefully it fits, I'll even make a cardboard box model of that sub for funsies so anyone looking at this can get an idea of how it'll be.

 

[2XIPA]

Fantastic, thanks!

 

[Pintarrr]

OK, I got what I hope are alright pictures of the rear passenger cargo panel where the subwoofer is. I made a little model roughly the size of that small Pioneer subwoofer, and placed it where I think a viable option would be for it. I think you'll still need to get creative mounting it, but it seems like it's doable.

I'd forgotten how much more narrow it is in the lower rear corner of that void space, you can kinda see that it's roughly 3 1/4" at the narrow point.

I lost the motivation to take pictures of the other side where the amplifier is, but it's very similar. I have more pictures of the amp and the sub by themselves if anyone is curious how the mounting brackets look.

 

[2XIPA]

Awesome thanks! Looks like there’s room for even a larger subwoofer if you were so inclined. What are the distances between the mounting points on the sub?

Almost seems you could mount a sub this large into the space. 10" x 8" x 3" https://www.crutchfield.com/S-q2N2qIIWYAe/p_109BASPRON/JBL-BassPro-Nano.html

I just got my preliminary build date of 9/17 so I have plenty of time to daydream.

 

[Pintarrr]

Awesome thanks! Looks like there’s room for even a larger subwoofer if you were so inclined. What are the distances between the mounting points on the sub?

Almost seems you could mount a sub this large into the space. 10" x 8" x 3" https://www.crutchfield.com/S-q2N2qIIWYAe/p_109BASPRON/JBL-BassPro-Nano.html

I just got my preliminary build date of 9/17 so I have plenty of time to daydream.

I think you'll wanna wait until you can make a model of the mounting points, a couple are depressed back into the void space a couple inches and they're not in any sensible position.

https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/electrical/other-electrical-related-parts/speaker-13292593-1?pdp=y

 

[2XIPA]

Thanks for that. Being newly retired this year, and with newly found time, I built a couple subwoofer models a while ago.

Curious as to what speakers did you use to replace the B&O’s? I’ve read that some are getting good results not replacing the door tweeters or dash speakers. Also read in the Mach-E forum some people are tapping into the 12v outlet in the back to power their subwoofer.

Looks like it’s been a fun build. Cheers!

 

[BroncoMike]

Thanks for the detailed writeup and photos. I'm not at the stage where I'm ready to do an audio upgrade yet, but this will be valuable info for anyone going down the path in the future. Hats off for blazing the trail.

 

[Froggy]

Thanks for that. Being newly retired this year, and with newly found time, I built a couple subwoofer models a while ago.

Curious as to what speakers did you use to replace the B&O’s? I’ve read that some are getting good results not replacing the door tweeters or dash speakers. Also read in the Mach-E forum some people are tapping into the 12v outlet in the back to power their subwoofer.

Looks like it’s been a fun build. Cheers!

I would make sure you choose your, remote on, correctly. It is very possible, an amp could come on, without, the key.

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