The only time I get the double honk is when I get out of the vehicle with it running and shut the door. I'm careful not to do that right now, as I have to manually open/close my garage door for the time being.
I know the OP said the vehicle is off.
The only other honk I can think of is...
If this is the only time you ever intend to buff paint and/or plastic, you are probably better off to just take it to a detailer and ask them to do it. If, on the other hand, you are using this as a starting point and want to learn a bit as you go, then you should look at an orbital polisher...
I would probably start with some Mink Oil, as I'm guessing the alcohol wipe dried out the leather in that spot. Beyond that, I might go with some Lexol. There are a lot of options out there and more opinions about all the options.
Just another data point, when I lived in Denver, CO I very rarely had the noise, basically only after it rained/snowed. Now living in the St Louis, MO area I have it all the time. I think rust forming on the rotors in high humidity/wet conditions is the primary trigger.
Sometimes it's better to "nip it in the bud" so to speak. I'm not saying that it has to be mean or terse, just that it needs to be identified. People don't always know when they are doing something "wrong". Double posting doesn't seem like a big deal until it becomes a big deal and the forum...
Oh, that makes me think I need to print something that will screw onto the big oil bottle and hold it in the filler. Just so I don't have to stand there and hold the bottle almost the whole time.
You are measuring the pressure after the turbo, so you will not see much (if any) vacuum. From the turbo to the air filter is where vacuum will be created by the turbo pulling air in. Where you are measuring, the turbo is maintaining the pressure at whatever the ECU is requesting.
Correct, when sitting in traffic no air is being "forced" into the duct. However, the engine is pulling a vacuum which causes air to flow through the duct. For the AFE intake with the plug removed, some air would also come through that side hole.
When you are driving, there is a slightly...
The "ram air effect" is essentially zero. The air coming from that duct is a little cooler, but really just a little unless you are sitting in traffic.
When I'm doing an oil change, I have a rubber pad on my jack and put it under the subframe and jack the whole front end up at once, then put the jack stands in place and drop it down. Of course, this is on the 2.0L, so I don't know if the same thing is available for the 1.5L. I know you have a...
I just bought a K1C and haven't printed anything with it yet.
I have been using 3D printed parts in my work for 25+ years. I have used printers at work off/on for 20+ years. The ability to use CF filaments is what pushed me over the edge to buy one, and the fact that I got a refurb and eBay...
It does suck that now when I really want to know the NOACK value, it has become nearly impossible to find. It also seems to vary from one weight to another within the same brand. I'm sure thicker oils naturally have a lower NOACK. I don't remember where I found the M1 NOACK number now, but at...
My only caveat to this is that in a direct injection engine the oil's NOACK rating can be important to the intake valves. You want something with the lowest NOACK value you can find. Mobil 1 happens to be pretty good for the BS.
Just wanted to say that some of the coolant leaks reported on this forum have been so slow that the coolant would just evaporate before it would show on the ground, and possibly even on the skid plate/under body cover. I think that most active users of this forum know by now that the water pump...