- First Name
- Dan
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2021
- Threads
- 2
- Messages
- 27
- Reaction score
- 36
- Location
- North Ridgeville, Ohio
- Vehicle(s)
- 2021 Bronco Sport
- Thread starter
- #1
Good morning all,
So I changed my brakes over the last few days and when I started it, it gave me a bunch of warnings, including "Hill start assist not available," "collision assist not available," "check brakes," a bunch of stuff.
To take you through what I did start to finish to see what I messed up, I took the car into the shop on Saturday to have the brake fluid changed. Took them about an hour, everything was working well after, drove home fine.
On Sunday I did the rear brakes. I put the car into Electronic Parking Brake maintenance mode, it confirmed it was on. I started in the rear: loosened the lug nuts, jacked the wheels up, removed the lug nuts, took the wheel off. I unplugged the power cord running to the motor on the caliper so i could move it more freely. Then I loosened the caliper bracket bolts and removed the caliper and bracket from the wheel assembly. I hung the caliper up by a hook. I removed the rotor. I changed the rubber boots in the caliper bracket. I thoroughly greased the inside of the boots and the caliper guide pins. Greased the pad arms and backs. In order to retract the piston, I used two tools: the First one was a pusher tool, almost like a clamp, except made for brakes. I put an old pad in, and turned it until it stopped turning. I then tried to put the brakes back on and get them around the rotor, but there was not enough clearance. So then I hunted down my tool to rotate the piston with the two little notches. I rotated clockwise until this piston did not turn anymore. I put the pads back into the bracket, was able to get it around the rotor this time. Put everything back together, plugged the electrical connector back in, and then put the wheels, etc. Back on. I did this to both sides.
Last night I did the front brakes. Same process, jacked up, disassembled, etc. When it came time to take the rotors off, they were more or less glued on there and I couldn't get them past the hub flange. So I pulled the neutral release cord in the cabin and rotated the axle so I could beat the rotor off with a mallet. Got it off, did the same process as the back (changing rubber boots, greasing pins, greasing pads, compressing pistons, etc.). I made sure the little tabs on the inside pad were pushed and seated all the way into the piston's circle. Then I put everything back together.
I got in the cabin, i made sure the parking jawl release switch was back in (I put this back into park each time after getting the rotor off each front side). I then got it out of parking brake maintenance mode. The parking brake motors worked because I could hear them whirring and it would say "parking brake on, parking brake off" etc. However, I had that plethora of lights I mentioned. I drove the car to break in the brakes, I assumed the lights would go away. I broke the brakes in, but once I got back the lights were still on. Another source said try disconnecting the negative battery terminal to reset it. I did that, but the lights were still there even with the battery disconnected for like 3 mins...
Both the rear brake electric connectors were plugged back in. The only thing I can think is that perhaps I wasn't supposed to rotate the pistons in the back all the way in when I was turning them clockwise by the notches? I also noticed that if I would pump the brakes once the car was off, it did NOT firm up like it's supposed to... I didn't do anything with the brake fluid, the level looked good when I check it, however I did notice a little moisture on the outside of the reservoir (even though the cap was on). I don't believe that was there when I got it back from the shop after the brake fluid change, but I also wasn't looking at it with a flashlight at night.
Can anyone advise me on what I may have done wrona if they've had this problem/are knowledgeable about these newer braking systems? Thank you very much in advance.
-Dan
So I changed my brakes over the last few days and when I started it, it gave me a bunch of warnings, including "Hill start assist not available," "collision assist not available," "check brakes," a bunch of stuff.
To take you through what I did start to finish to see what I messed up, I took the car into the shop on Saturday to have the brake fluid changed. Took them about an hour, everything was working well after, drove home fine.
On Sunday I did the rear brakes. I put the car into Electronic Parking Brake maintenance mode, it confirmed it was on. I started in the rear: loosened the lug nuts, jacked the wheels up, removed the lug nuts, took the wheel off. I unplugged the power cord running to the motor on the caliper so i could move it more freely. Then I loosened the caliper bracket bolts and removed the caliper and bracket from the wheel assembly. I hung the caliper up by a hook. I removed the rotor. I changed the rubber boots in the caliper bracket. I thoroughly greased the inside of the boots and the caliper guide pins. Greased the pad arms and backs. In order to retract the piston, I used two tools: the First one was a pusher tool, almost like a clamp, except made for brakes. I put an old pad in, and turned it until it stopped turning. I then tried to put the brakes back on and get them around the rotor, but there was not enough clearance. So then I hunted down my tool to rotate the piston with the two little notches. I rotated clockwise until this piston did not turn anymore. I put the pads back into the bracket, was able to get it around the rotor this time. Put everything back together, plugged the electrical connector back in, and then put the wheels, etc. Back on. I did this to both sides.
Last night I did the front brakes. Same process, jacked up, disassembled, etc. When it came time to take the rotors off, they were more or less glued on there and I couldn't get them past the hub flange. So I pulled the neutral release cord in the cabin and rotated the axle so I could beat the rotor off with a mallet. Got it off, did the same process as the back (changing rubber boots, greasing pins, greasing pads, compressing pistons, etc.). I made sure the little tabs on the inside pad were pushed and seated all the way into the piston's circle. Then I put everything back together.
I got in the cabin, i made sure the parking jawl release switch was back in (I put this back into park each time after getting the rotor off each front side). I then got it out of parking brake maintenance mode. The parking brake motors worked because I could hear them whirring and it would say "parking brake on, parking brake off" etc. However, I had that plethora of lights I mentioned. I drove the car to break in the brakes, I assumed the lights would go away. I broke the brakes in, but once I got back the lights were still on. Another source said try disconnecting the negative battery terminal to reset it. I did that, but the lights were still there even with the battery disconnected for like 3 mins...
Both the rear brake electric connectors were plugged back in. The only thing I can think is that perhaps I wasn't supposed to rotate the pistons in the back all the way in when I was turning them clockwise by the notches? I also noticed that if I would pump the brakes once the car was off, it did NOT firm up like it's supposed to... I didn't do anything with the brake fluid, the level looked good when I check it, however I did notice a little moisture on the outside of the reservoir (even though the cap was on). I don't believe that was there when I got it back from the shop after the brake fluid change, but I also wasn't looking at it with a flashlight at night.
Can anyone advise me on what I may have done wrona if they've had this problem/are knowledgeable about these newer braking systems? Thank you very much in advance.
-Dan
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