- First Name
- Michael
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2024
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- 24
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- 49
- Location
- San Francisco
- Vehicle(s)
- 2023 Big Bend
- Thread starter
- #1
Just installed the Rival 4x4 aluminum skid plate on my 2023 Big Bend with the plastic crankcase oil pan. This topic has been written about previously, but I thought I'd add my observations and photos for reference.
Overall, the product is solid; they shipped it out via FedEX within 3-4 days and, IMO, it's pretty heavy duty. 1/4" aluminum, but pretty easy to handle as it's about 20-23 pounds. This will be iimportant as you will have to be removing it and reinstalling it in the future for all oil changes.
The original engine bottom tray is a felt/composit tray held in place by 2 plastic button retainers and 13 x 1" torx head fasteners. It removes very easily but if you're sliding under the car to remove it, some of the fasteners are somewhat hidden. It's a flimsy piece that does nothing to protect the underside of the engine area.
The Rival product is held in place by 8x M6x25 bolts. An additional 4x M6x25 bolts are usede to hold the plastic bumper in place, but they do nothing to hold the skidplate to the car.
The front two bolts, labeled 1 and 2, should never be removed once installed; they are loosened to allow the skid plate to be removed. All of the other bolts need to be completely removed to pull out the skid plate.
Unfortunately, I think the product was designed around the original engine sump and the newer models with the plastic/polymer crankcase oil pan have the drain plug outside of the access panel provided. Furthermore, the oil filter is only accessible if you remove the entire skid plate.
Bolts 1 and 2 are easily installed as the provided insert nut is easily accessed on the backside of the steel chassis member. Bolts 3 & 4 have a flat wire retainer and are relatively easily installed on the backside of the steel chassis member. Make sure the flat wire retainers do not interfere with access to the nut screw threads.
Bolts 5, 6, 7, 8 are held in place with an insert nut with flat wire retainers. These are inserted into chassis members where there is no access on the back side. The flat wire retainers need to be bent flat to the insert nut, then pushed into the rectangular/square hole that used to hold a threaded sheet metal clip that used to hold one of the torx head engine tray fasteners. It's tricky to get the insert nut in, then bend the flat wire retainers back in place. Lots of 4 letter words used here. you need to visually make sure that the insert nut threads are fully visible and not blocked by the flat wire retainers.
Once bolts 1 & 2 are loosely in place and all insert nuts are in place, you slide the skid plate into place from the rear, then install bolts 7 & 8, I found it best to install 3 & 4 next followed by 5 & 6. Torque everything down, then install the final 4 bolts to hold the front bumper in place.
I was surprised to see the boxed in chassis members holding insert nuts 5/6/7/8. IMO, this is not a good thing for salt induced corrosion, whether you have this skid plate or the OEM tray.
I also found the M6x25 bolts a little short for locations 5 & 6 and had to forgo the double washer recommended. Having boldts 3 & 4 in place and snugged down helped bring the plate up.
IMO, you need to jack up one side of the car to get sufficient access to install this.
The Rival product is good, but could be improved by relocating the drain plug access panel and maybe providing another port for access to the oil filter.
Overall, the product is solid; they shipped it out via FedEX within 3-4 days and, IMO, it's pretty heavy duty. 1/4" aluminum, but pretty easy to handle as it's about 20-23 pounds. This will be iimportant as you will have to be removing it and reinstalling it in the future for all oil changes.
The original engine bottom tray is a felt/composit tray held in place by 2 plastic button retainers and 13 x 1" torx head fasteners. It removes very easily but if you're sliding under the car to remove it, some of the fasteners are somewhat hidden. It's a flimsy piece that does nothing to protect the underside of the engine area.
The Rival product is held in place by 8x M6x25 bolts. An additional 4x M6x25 bolts are usede to hold the plastic bumper in place, but they do nothing to hold the skidplate to the car.
The front two bolts, labeled 1 and 2, should never be removed once installed; they are loosened to allow the skid plate to be removed. All of the other bolts need to be completely removed to pull out the skid plate.
Unfortunately, I think the product was designed around the original engine sump and the newer models with the plastic/polymer crankcase oil pan have the drain plug outside of the access panel provided. Furthermore, the oil filter is only accessible if you remove the entire skid plate.
Bolts 1 and 2 are easily installed as the provided insert nut is easily accessed on the backside of the steel chassis member. Bolts 3 & 4 have a flat wire retainer and are relatively easily installed on the backside of the steel chassis member. Make sure the flat wire retainers do not interfere with access to the nut screw threads.
Bolts 5, 6, 7, 8 are held in place with an insert nut with flat wire retainers. These are inserted into chassis members where there is no access on the back side. The flat wire retainers need to be bent flat to the insert nut, then pushed into the rectangular/square hole that used to hold a threaded sheet metal clip that used to hold one of the torx head engine tray fasteners. It's tricky to get the insert nut in, then bend the flat wire retainers back in place. Lots of 4 letter words used here. you need to visually make sure that the insert nut threads are fully visible and not blocked by the flat wire retainers.
Once bolts 1 & 2 are loosely in place and all insert nuts are in place, you slide the skid plate into place from the rear, then install bolts 7 & 8, I found it best to install 3 & 4 next followed by 5 & 6. Torque everything down, then install the final 4 bolts to hold the front bumper in place.
I was surprised to see the boxed in chassis members holding insert nuts 5/6/7/8. IMO, this is not a good thing for salt induced corrosion, whether you have this skid plate or the OEM tray.
I also found the M6x25 bolts a little short for locations 5 & 6 and had to forgo the double washer recommended. Having boldts 3 & 4 in place and snugged down helped bring the plate up.
IMO, you need to jack up one side of the car to get sufficient access to install this.
The Rival product is good, but could be improved by relocating the drain plug access panel and maybe providing another port for access to the oil filter.
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