Speaker Questions

[Scottie137]

I still have not done with tweeters only due to free time. As this point, was it worth it? Yes. However, if you're going to go through the trouble of ripping your doors aparts (and potentially break clips like me), get the speakers you really want. Not that there's anything wrong with the Powerbass ones.... but the one thing they actually lack is bass. Clarity is much improved. I'm sure the head unit powering all of this is grossly underwhelming as well which probably doesn't help the speaker situation.

-Scott

My understanding is that the door speakers are just woofers, with the tweeters in the pillar and a cross over somewhere in the dash, do you think that’s right?

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[ScottyD]

My understanding is that the door speakers are just woofers, with the tweeters in the pillar and a cross over somewhere in the dash, do you think that’s right?

I believe so, but I'll leave it to someone with more street cred than me. LOL

 

[Mark S.]

My understanding is that the door speakers are just woofers, with the tweeters in the pillar and a cross over somewhere in the dash, do you think that’s right?

If by "woofer" you mean a single driver, yes that's correct. If by "woofer" you mean the frequency they are capable of reproducing, I don't think that's correct. The OEM speakers are full-range speakers, meaning there is only a single driver instead of a woofer/tweeter (coaxial) arrangement as is common with automotive speakers. With a coax speaker design there is usually a filter to prevent lower frequencies being sent to the tweeter, but I don't believe the opposite is true.

 

[Scottie137]

If by "woofer" you mean a single driver, yes that's correct. If by "woofer" you mean the frequency they are capable of reproducing, I don't think that's correct. The OEM speakers are full-range speakers, meaning there is only a single driver instead of a woofer/tweeter (coaxial) arrangement as is common with automotive speakers. With a coax speaker design there is usually a filter to prevent lower frequencies being sent to the tweeter, but I don't believe the opposite is true.

Yes, from my layman understanding, I meant woofer as "single driver" not a 2 or 3 way speaker. Thanks for confirming!

 

[Xzavior1818]

I had the same experience with Crutchfield. Any 6.5" speakers will work with the right adapters. Here's what I used.

Adapters
AmazonSmile: Metra 82-5605 Rear 6.5" Speaker Plate - Pair : Automotive

Sealing tape
AmazonSmile: uxcell a15011200ux0430 Black 10m 33ft Length Car Speaker Sealing Tape : Industrial & Scientific

Speaker wire adapters
AmazonSmile: (2) Pair of Metra 72-5602 Speaker Wire Adapters for Ford and Mazda Vehicles - 4 Total Adapters : Automotive

Speakers
AmazonSmile: JBL GTO629 Premium 6.5-Inch Co-Axial Speaker - Set of 2 : Electronics

You have your choice of tons of speakers. I went with a good mid-range and am happy with it.

Thinking about the same speakers. How does it sound on the factory system? Louder? More crisp?

 

[MAGPLM]

PowerBass is what I used in both front and rear. Much better that stock without spending a lot of money!!!!

 

[Xzavior1818]

I ordered the jbl GTO 6.5s. Going to see if it cleans up the sound and gets a slight increase in volume. If all we'll then I'll add the subwoofer in a few months. I really don't want to add a 4 channel amp this time around. I love my car audio but it becomes a big project with these newer cars. I plan to use a t harness and feed the front channels to the rear to a kicker key pre amp to correct the audio signal. Then maybe 1000 watts rms sub and call it a day.

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