Running a 4 channel amp to aftermarket door speakers

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T_Stiffler

T_Stiffler

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All the "plugnplay" will do is REROUTE your speaker wires out to your amp, and back. That's it. If there is a faulty or intermittent signal coming out of the head unit as it goes OUT of the head unit to the amp (by way of the "plugnplay"), then that faulty or intermittent signal will still be there as it comes back from the amp and goes out to the left speaker.

My best guess without hearing it is one of the two:

A) Something screwey is going on with your head unit output, and MIGHT BE able to be fixed by resetting the ACM and its factory settings via some OBD2 process.
B) There is faulty wiring between the head unit and the left speaker. This can be tested by using a multimeter on the speaker wires going to the left speaker, and looking for a constant voltage as sound is heard.

I would also say to never discount the possiblity of a 'bad ground' somewhere. 'Bad grounds' somehow always rear their head whenit comes to weird electrical issues.

If its just your left speaker, a work around could be to simply use your rear outputs to the amp and bridge them over to the front. You'll lose some power, but you'll solve your left speaker issue if the issue is NOT the head unit itself.

Whats up Gator gotta question for you! I had my car diagnosed at Ford Im having a short to ground issue somewhere still with my left door speaker and tweeter isnt working, if I use T-harness plug-n-play, kicker key DSP amp, and a line converter wouldnt the amp technically be powering each channel of speaker individually? Or will I still ultimately have a short to ground somehwere?
 

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Whats up Gator gotta question for you! I had my car diagnosed at Ford Im having a short to ground issue somewhere still with my left door speaker and tweeter isnt working, if I use T-harness plug-n-play, kicker key DSP amp, and a line converter wouldnt the amp technically be powering each channel of speaker individually? Or will I still ultimately have a short to ground somehwere?
Sorry I’ve been on vacay and have been purposefully trying to unplug, at my wife’s behest.

It depends on where the short is. If the short is within the head unit only, then yes, bypassing the amp in the head unit with the tee connector to a third party amp “should” technically fix the issue.
I’m still unsure why they can’t fix it for you, if they diagnosed it.
A short to ground can be a very difficult thing to pinpoint.
 
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Sorry I’ve been on vacay and have been purposefully trying to unplug, at my wife’s behest.

It depends on where the short is. If the short is within the head unit only, then yes, bypassing the amp in the head unit with the tee connector to a third party amp “should” technically fix the issue.
I’m still unsure why they can’t fix it for you, if they diagnosed it.
A short to ground can be a very difficult thing to pinpoint.

No worries I know how the women can be lol. They could fix it but just like you said it can be difficult to pinpoint. Dude gave me an estimate to fix it from 300-1200 very vague, thats just for them to find where to short is and then charge me whatever else to fix it. They kept my car for about 16hrs and didnt even pull it into the garage but said "Speaker was working when they first turned on stereo then went to get in it again and it wasnt working" service manager told me "They didn't have time to fix it" ?????

They have frustrated me so bad I decided I'm not letting them touch my audio again I've called and complained to corporate and everything.

My buddies and I at the audio shop I frequent are gonna strip my driver side door run a new speaker harness, I have plug-n-play ordered from crutchfield, gonna run a JBL underseat sub on the driver side, and possibly a 12 in the trunk. Before I ran the kicker key amp to all 4 speakers I was gonna see how a couple subs sounded 1st and see if I still have same issue in door speaker with the plug-n-play set up.
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