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While driving in sport mode we noticed this last night. After being stopped at a light when we started to drive again the engine rev’d to 4000 rpm before it seemed to kick into a gear. Anyone else experience this?
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In the five Goat mode system all the modes are basically throttle remapping.
You want snappier power you gotta move up the tac.
You want easier control in slick stuff you lessen throttle response.
Example: regular drive mode, a half inch of gas pedal movement gives ‘X’ amount of acceleration…
Switch to slippery mode and that same amount of throttle press down gives 1/2 of ‘X’ amount of acceleration. If it’s rough or slippery and you sneeze or hit a bump and your foot moves, sudden acceleration or deceleration will break traction.
The system is that simple.
With good right foot management you can do everything in regular mode and low gear when climbing or in bad traction situations.
Follow me ?
I would have been perfectly fine without any goat modes at all and would have much preferred L,2, and OD off.
As for the seven GOAT 2.0 L badlands that’s a different animal.
All I said above does not apply to that system.
New people, You should read the manual and stay out of sand mode !
Sand mode is only for deep sand. Improper use can cause excessive wear. As for sandy rocks, gravel or dirt roads. Sand mode is NOT for those conditions.
Always use the transmission to take the load of the engine, especially the 3 banger.
Use the LOW button at low speeds when climbing or in the rough stuff. Holding the tac above 1700 rpm keeps you in the turbo.
Stay on pipe. 2,000 to 3,000 is best for climbing if it’s smooth enough.
As for engine braking with low.
Fagetaboutit!
The 3 banger crank prolly weighs about four pounds.
Use your brakes. They are cheap to replace.
You want snappier power you gotta move up the tac.
You want easier control in slick stuff you lessen throttle response.
Example: regular drive mode, a half inch of gas pedal movement gives ‘X’ amount of acceleration…
Switch to slippery mode and that same amount of throttle press down gives 1/2 of ‘X’ amount of acceleration. If it’s rough or slippery and you sneeze or hit a bump and your foot moves, sudden acceleration or deceleration will break traction.
The system is that simple.
With good right foot management you can do everything in regular mode and low gear when climbing or in bad traction situations.
Follow me ?
I would have been perfectly fine without any goat modes at all and would have much preferred L,2, and OD off.
As for the seven GOAT 2.0 L badlands that’s a different animal.
All I said above does not apply to that system.
New people, You should read the manual and stay out of sand mode !
Sand mode is only for deep sand. Improper use can cause excessive wear. As for sandy rocks, gravel or dirt roads. Sand mode is NOT for those conditions.
Always use the transmission to take the load of the engine, especially the 3 banger.
Use the LOW button at low speeds when climbing or in the rough stuff. Holding the tac above 1700 rpm keeps you in the turbo.
Stay on pipe. 2,000 to 3,000 is best for climbing if it’s smooth enough.
As for engine braking with low.
Fagetaboutit!
The 3 banger crank prolly weighs about four pounds.
Use your brakes. They are cheap to replace.
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If I am reading your description right, you are saying that the engine rev’d up to 4K rpms before the transmission engaged and the car began to move? If that is the case, then this is not normal. If you are saying that it rev’d to 4K before shifting from 1st to 2nd gear then that is probably normal.
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