Custom sub box and amp install.

BjB13

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Quick easy spot I came across for wiring access from under hood to cabin area. Above driver side front door hinge. It goes right through to behind dash and wires drop easily to floor without any real fishin. ??

Ford Bronco Sport Custom sub box and amp install. 77BFB46D-2802-4584-8A23-CFC98A9E377A
 

HugeGuyTheory

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Quick easy spot I came across for wiring access from under hood to cabin area. Above driver side front door hinge. It goes right through to behind dash and wires drop easily to floor without any real fishin. ??

Ford Bronco Sport Custom sub box and amp install. 77BFB46D-2802-4584-8A23-CFC98A9E377A
Is this going behind your weather stripping instead of through the firewall? ?ā€ā™‚
 

BjB13

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Just going through an existing hole they put there already had in place even with the rubber plug. The black looking stuff is the foam filled trash bags Ford used to fill the extremely larger void space. No weather stripping was harmed for this photo
 

21BroncoSport

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Thank you for the wiring information. It made my install much easier.

For anyone running wires, the dead pedal has a cap at the top that you pop out to reveal a 10mm nut holding the pedal down. I was unaware and broke mine thinking there were just pop-its...
 


21BroncoSport

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I cannot find the right channels in the wiring harness under the dead pedal. The colors you list don't exist in my setup. I found 4 sets of black tape/twisted wires. I found both left side speaker leads, but the other 2 sets produce no sound. I'm stumped.

Were the right sides in the upper harness of the two? Access is tight, so getting test leads in there was a no-go.
 

ethanridings

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Today I finished installing a custom sub box that I built under the cargo floor and a line converter with the amp under the pass side rear seat storage area.
Sub is a Dayton Audio 8ā€ in roughly .5 cu ft.
Amp is an old school Zapco I had laying around with built in x-oxer.
Installed a simple PAC LP7-2 line out converter connected to the front door speakers.
Running speaker wires and power cable wasnā€™t too bad. Just a TON of plastic panels to remove.
I brought the power wire in through a large rubber grommet on the firewall behind the battery. It was way easier with the battery removed. Just poke a slightly smaller hole than the size of the wire, apply a small bit of soapy water to the cable push it through. Thereā€™s plenty of room for any size cable, even 1/0.
Tapping into the front speaker wire was done at the harnesses by the kick-panels.
The driver side front harness was the easiest to get to and had lots of room to work. Remove the dead pedal and there are two harnesses. The lower one has the speaker wires. What I found after testing, speaker wire at the harness were twisted and taped together which helped identify them.
Front left wire colors.
light blue = positive, gray black = negative
Passenger side harness was easiest to get to by removing the glove box and the plastic fuse panel cover underneath.
Front right wire colors.
yellow orange = positive, green black = negative
There are a bunch of yellow/orange wires in the harness, the ones to tap into have black electrical tape and twisted together.
If anyone attempts this, use this info at your own risk.
Hey yall! Just wanna re
I cannot find the right channels in the wiring harness under the dead pedal. The colors you list don't exist in my setup. I found 4 sets of black tape/twisted wires. I found both left side speaker leads, but the other 2 sets produce no sound. I'm stumped.

Were the right sides in the upper harness of the two? Access is tight, so getting test leads in there was a no-go.
hey! Did you find the speaker wires you were looking to tap into? Iā€™m in the same predicament! Looking for the color of the wires to tap into the front left and front right.
 

ethanridings

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Today I finished installing a custom sub box that I built under the cargo floor and a line converter with the amp under the pass side rear seat storage area.
Sub is a Dayton Audio 8ā€ in roughly .5 cu ft.
Amp is an old school Zapco I had laying around with built in x-oxer.
Installed a simple PAC LP7-2 line out converter connected to the front door speakers.
Running speaker wires and power cable wasnā€™t too bad. Just a TON of plastic panels to remove.
I brought the power wire in through a large rubber grommet on the firewall behind the battery. It was way easier with the battery removed. Just poke a slightly smaller hole than the size of the wire, apply a small bit of soapy water to the cable push it through. Thereā€™s plenty of room for any size cable, even 1/0.
Tapping into the front speaker wire was done at the harnesses by the kick-panels.
The driver side front harness was the easiest to get to and had lots of room to work. Remove the dead pedal and there are two harnesses. The lower one has the speaker wires. What I found after testing, speaker wire at the harness were twisted and taped together which helped identify them.
Front left wire colors.
light blue = positive, gray black = negative
Passenger side harness was easiest to get to by removing the glove box and the plastic fuse panel cover underneath.
Front right wire colors.
yellow orange = positive, green black = negative
There are a bunch of yellow/orange wires in the harness, the ones to tap into have black electrical tape and twisted together.
If anyone attempts this, use this info at your own risk.
I cannot for the life of me find these wire on the front passenger side. Glove box removed, fuse cover removed.. any tips on a more specific location that you tapped into? I see where the harness is coming out into the area from the door but I canā€™t find the specific ā€œtwisted togetherā€ wires.. almost all the wires in there are covered by electrical tape as well.. please any help would be very much appreciated.
 
 




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