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Today I finished installing a custom sub box that I built under the cargo floor and a line converter with the amp under the pass side rear seat storage area.
Sub is a Dayton Audio 8” in roughly .5 cu ft.
Amp is an old school Zapco I had laying around with built in x-oxer.
Installed a simple PAC LP7-2 line out converter connected to the front door speakers.
Running speaker wires and power cable wasn’t too bad. Just a TON of plastic panels to remove.
I brought the power wire in through a large rubber grommet on the firewall behind the battery. It was way easier with the battery removed. Just poke a slightly smaller hole than the size of the wire, apply a small bit of soapy water to the cable push it through. There’s plenty of room for any size cable, even 1/0.
Tapping into the front speaker wire was done at the harnesses by the kick-panels.
The driver side front harness was the easiest to get to and had lots of room to work. Remove the dead pedal and there are two harnesses. The lower one has the speaker wires. What I found after testing, speaker wire at the harness were twisted and taped together which helped identify them.
Front left wire colors.
light blue = positive, gray black = negative
Passenger side harness was easiest to get to by removing the glove box and the plastic fuse panel cover underneath.
Front right wire colors.
yellow orange = positive, green black = negative
There are a bunch of yellow/orange wires in the harness, the ones to tap into have black electrical tape and twisted together.
If anyone attempts this, use this info at your own risk.
Sub is a Dayton Audio 8” in roughly .5 cu ft.
Amp is an old school Zapco I had laying around with built in x-oxer.
Installed a simple PAC LP7-2 line out converter connected to the front door speakers.
Running speaker wires and power cable wasn’t too bad. Just a TON of plastic panels to remove.
I brought the power wire in through a large rubber grommet on the firewall behind the battery. It was way easier with the battery removed. Just poke a slightly smaller hole than the size of the wire, apply a small bit of soapy water to the cable push it through. There’s plenty of room for any size cable, even 1/0.
Tapping into the front speaker wire was done at the harnesses by the kick-panels.
The driver side front harness was the easiest to get to and had lots of room to work. Remove the dead pedal and there are two harnesses. The lower one has the speaker wires. What I found after testing, speaker wire at the harness were twisted and taped together which helped identify them.
Front left wire colors.
light blue = positive, gray black = negative
Passenger side harness was easiest to get to by removing the glove box and the plastic fuse panel cover underneath.
Front right wire colors.
yellow orange = positive, green black = negative
There are a bunch of yellow/orange wires in the harness, the ones to tap into have black electrical tape and twisted together.
If anyone attempts this, use this info at your own risk.
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