Anyone installed a dash cam in Bronco Sport yet?

[Willow]

I just finished installing a Garmin Mini Dash Cam in the rear window in my Badlands.

and a Rexing V1 dash cam behind the mirror on the windshield. Ignore messy garage.

Both camera's videos can be viewed over apps on phone. The Rexing has it's own screen for viewing also.

The rear facing Garmin is powered by the usb port in the rear which powers on/off with ignition. Garmin also has a small battery that continues to record for about 30 minutes after shutdown. Unfortunately the battery gives Garmin an operating temperature only from -4 F to 140 F. I've used battery dash cams from -30 F to 150 F and the only issues I've seen is poor or missing video until the camera warmed up.

I used a coiled Micro USB cable with a USB A extension so the rear window and rear hatch could open without the usb cable being damaged or getting in the way.

Rexing uses a super capacitor which gives it an operating Temp of -20F to 176F and is powered through the BS fuse block. I'll be posting directions on getting at the fuse block also in the electronics installation thread. It wasn't as easy without directions as it should be and I almost cut a couple wires in a wire loom trying to do it.

I had no problems hiding the USB wiring behind panels without detaching them. I also was able to easily run the wires along the door gaskets. I used a nylon tire tube changing tool from my bike to pry panels apart enough to hide the wires.

The Rexing was $100 and the Garmin was $93 on Amazon

I like the cams you bought. Good price on Amazon for each. Just wondering why you mounted the Garmin to the passenger side versus in the middle of the window? How does that effect the viewing angle? How clear is the picture through the tint?

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[Willow]

I just finished installing a Garmin Mini Dash Cam in the rear window in my Badlands.

and a Rexing V1 dash cam behind the mirror on the windshield. Ignore messy garage.

Both camera's videos can be viewed over apps on phone. The Rexing has it's own screen for viewing also.

The rear facing Garmin is powered by the usb port in the rear which powers on/off with ignition. Garmin also has a small battery that continues to record for about 30 minutes after shutdown. Unfortunately the battery gives Garmin an operating temperature only from -4 F to 140 F. I've used battery dash cams from -30 F to 150 F and the only issues I've seen is poor or missing video until the camera warmed up.

I used a coiled Micro USB cable with a USB A extension so the rear window and rear hatch could open without the usb cable being damaged or getting in the way.

Rexing uses a super capacitor which gives it an operating Temp of -20F to 176F and is powered through the BS fuse block. I'll be posting directions on getting at the fuse block also in the electronics installation thread. It wasn't as easy without directions as it should be and I almost cut a couple wires in a wire loom trying to do it.

I had no problems hiding the USB wiring behind panels without detaching them. I also was able to easily run the wires along the door gaskets. I used a nylon tire tube changing tool from my bike to pry panels apart enough to hide the wires.

The Rexing was $100 and the Garmin was $93 on Amazon

I did buy the Rexing and installed it with the supplied 12v cigarette power supply. Basically hid the wires, only problem with this setup is you have to remove the power supply after each drive. I put it through it's paces and then ordered the hard-wire kit to deliver power only after engine start up.

After doing some mounting and a test drive, I removed the MicroSD card and reviewed the videos on my laptop. I had some sunny skies and then going to dusk when I did my test drive. The video is very good. I have not done a night drive through town yet.

This camera is aimed at capturing accidents and parking lot mishaps but I am looking forward to doing a fun drive and videoing an on the go scenery, etc. which this can do.

I like how it basically looks like it belongs there on the rear view mirror windshield module. It looks stock, nice choice Ultraspaz! Now researching on rear cam and how the tint may effect video.

 

[Ultraspaz]

I did buy the Rexing and installed it with the supplied 12v cigarette power supply. Basically hid the wires, only problem with this setup is you have to remove the power supply after each drive. I put it through it's paces and then ordered the hard-wire kit to deliver power only after engine start up.

After doing some mounting and a test drive, I removed the MicroSD card and reviewed the videos on my laptop. I had some sunny skies and then going to dusk when I did my test drive. The video is very good. I have not done a night drive through town yet.

This camera is aimed at capturing accidents and parking lot mishaps but I am looking forward to doing a fun drive and videoing an on the go scenery, etc. which this can do.

I like how it basically looks like it belongs there on the rear view mirror windshield module. It looks stock, nice choice Ultraspaz! Now researching on rear cam and how the tint may effect video.

Thanks. Sorry I missed the earlier post on my rear camera. I installed it on the side of the rear window just for ease of installation. The viewing angle isn't much of a factor due to the wide angle lens still capturing everything behind me. Tinting isn't really noticeable in recordings but be careful of to not damage the defroster elements. I did get rid of the Garmin mini in the rear. Recordings were hit and miss and the camera overheated easily. I liked my Rexing but bought an Anker Roav on sale and having been having good luck with it.

I changed my hardwire kit to one that connects to both switched power and continuous power so I can use parking mode on the Rexing. I really like the time-lapse when vehicle is parked. Even though it didn't catch the @#*!% that put a dent in my passenger door.

 

[crockermt]

Installed the Thinkware dash cam from Ford's accessory catalog. Hardwired; works great. Only issue is the OBD port was put in a bad spot and can't be accessed when everything is reinstalled. Looking to relocate the OBD so it's usable.

 

[Vyper]

I also posted this in the fuse block thread, but here's for visibility:

FYI for anyone curious, I installed a Thinkware F200 today with a hardwire kit. They sell an installation kit on Amazon that included the needed 10A fuses and fuse taps, along with a voltage tester and pry bar.

I ended up using only spare fuses as listed in the manual. I used #3 for the ACC as it does not get constant power and I used #20 for the battery as it DOES get constant power. I tested these both to make sure.

The F200 smartphone app has battery saver for park mode to ensure it doesn't drop below 12v. This is adjustable.

Took a couple hours including tucking all the wiring into the trim/headliner. If you use the fuses I did, it should be quicker as you won't need to do any trial and error.

I hope this helps!

I also learned my local Best Buy is clueless as the parking mode never worked in my previous vehicle that they installed on. Go figure I do it myself and everything is great.

 

[SN95]

I finally installed the rear camera to the back glass. It took some work but wasn't as bad as I had originally thought. I found a great tip from youtube in regards to fishing the camera wire through the rubber sleeve from the body to the liftgate. They used a ziptie. It's flexible and yet rigid enough.
I used a T20 bit to remove the screws from the handle first. The handle cover just pulls off, exposing the screws. Once the screws are removed, you can pull the lower inner trim panel away, but not off from the lift gate. This will allow you to pull the upper trim panel (the one that surrounds the rear glass) away. The lower part of the upper trim panel has a white clip. Use a screw driver to push down to disengage on both sides. Once those are disengaged, you can pull the panel off. All of that panels are attached by emhart clips, just pull it. I used a large ziptie to insert into the sleeve after i gently removed it from the white caps that attaches to the metal. I sprayed some windex to lubricate it a little when pulling the wire through. When running the wire, pay attention to the center top clip. YOu need to leave that area clear. The emhart is attached to a doghouse (industry design term). It needs to be clear for the fastener to be seated correctly. You need to keeps some slack in the wire for when the rear glass opens. I used a small rubber band to keep the wire together that will open up when i use the glass window. The white brackets that attaches the rubber sleeves to the body and liftgate should be removed to properly seat the rubber sleeve then it just snaps back in easy for a good seal. Of course, finish the project with the bottle opener.

 

[Vyper]

I finally installed the rear camera to the back glass. It took some work but wasn't as bad as I had originally thought. I found a great tip from youtube in regards to fishing the camera wire through the rubber sleeve from the body to the liftgate. They used a ziptie. It's flexible and yet rigid enough.
I used a T20 bit to remove the screws from the handle first. The handle cover just pulls off, exposing the screws. Once the screws are removed, you can pull the lower inner trim panel away, but not off from the lift gate. This will allow you to pull the upper trim panel (the one that surrounds the rear glass) away. The lower part of the upper trim panel has a white clip. Use a screw driver to push down to disengage on both sides. Once those are disengaged, you can pull the panel off. All of that panels are attached by emhart clips, just pull it. I used a large ziptie to insert into the sleeve after i gently removed it from the white caps that attaches to the metal. I sprayed some windex to lubricate it a little when pulling the wire through. When running the wire, pay attention to the center top clip. YOu need to leave that area clear. The emhart is attached to a doghouse (industry design term). It needs to be clear for the fastener to be seated correctly. You need to keeps some slack in the wire for when the rear glass opens. I used a small rubber band to keep the wire together that will open up when i use the glass window. The white brackets that attaches the rubber sleeves to the body and liftgate should be removed to properly seat the rubber sleeve then it just snaps back in easy for a good seal. Of course, finish the project with the bottle opener.

You definitely went an extra few steps compared to me. I just tucked it into the weather stripping on the body and left enough slack for the wire to go from the body to the glass on the tailgate. Yours looks great!

PS excellent use of the built-in bottle opener for a job well done

 

[SN95]

Cheers!

 

[NJBronco]

I went with Rexing V5 and it was easy to install.

⁴

 

[Argang]

You definitely went an extra few steps compared to me. I just tucked it into the weather stripping on the body and left enough slack for the wire to go from the body to the glass on the tailgate. Yours looks great!

PS excellent use of the built-in bottle opener for a job well done

Hi Inwant to attempt this but how did you run the wire from the front of the cab to the rear? It looks like you ran it in the roof liner....did you need to pull off the trim on the pillars first?

Thanks....excellent job btw.

 

[compass crusher]

Just bought this. I hope there's some way to turn off the ADAS with the dashcams. Otherwise, I'll be getting emergency notifications from my bronco sport and dashcams ?

 

[rmreid22]

Slightly off topic question:
For those who have run wire/cord up and around the front pillar(s) around the windshield to the rear view mirror; How easy was it to get behind/or tuck the cord?
I am mounting my V1 G2 to the left of my rearview mirror and need to hide the cord

TIA

 

[Petroph]

I finally installed the rear camera to the back glass. It took some work but wasn't as bad as I had originally thought. I found a great tip from youtube in regards to fishing the camera wire through the rubber sleeve from the body to the liftgate. They used a ziptie. It's flexible and yet rigid enough.
I used a T20 bit to remove the screws from the handle first. The handle cover just pulls off, exposing the screws. Once the screws are removed, you can pull the lower inner trim panel away, but not off from the lift gate. This will allow you to pull the upper trim panel (the one that surrounds the rear glass) away. The lower part of the upper trim panel has a white clip. Use a screw driver to push down to disengage on both sides. Once those are disengaged, you can pull the panel off. All of that panels are attached by emhart clips, just pull it. I used a large ziptie to insert into the sleeve after i gently removed it from the white caps that attaches to the metal. I sprayed some windex to lubricate it a little when pulling the wire through. When running the wire, pay attention to the center top clip. YOu need to leave that area clear. The emhart is attached to a doghouse (industry design term). It needs to be clear for the fastener to be seated correctly. You need to keeps some slack in the wire for when the rear glass opens. I used a small rubber band to keep the wire together that will open up when i use the glass window. The white brackets that attaches the rubber sleeves to the body and liftgate should be removed to properly seat the rubber sleeve then it just snaps back in easy for a good seal. Of course, finish the project with the bottle opener.

I have a Thinkware F800 PRO with Front and Rear Camera. There is a USB connection that connect and powers the rear camera, similar to your setup. I'm afraid that the USB section that connects to the main camera is not long enough. It barely was long enough for my F150 Full Crew Cab, when I installed it years ago. Wanting to move it over to the BS when I get it, but not sure if I will be able to install the rear camera just because of the length of the USB cable.

 

[DISCOLEG]

Let's see some videos and what they were shot on. I had an old cam I tried for fitment. It fit like a glove but quality sucks for current day. I am looking for something small.

 

[tburner]

Slightly off topic question:
For those who have run wire/cord up and around the front pillar(s) around the windshield to the rear view mirror; How easy was it to get behind/or tuck the cord?
I am mounting my V1 G2 to the left of my rearview mirror and need to hide the cord

TIA

I also installed a V1 to the left of the mirror. Tucking the wire was easy. Stuffing it into the black plastic around the mirror was one of the harder parts, but I've since learned how easy it is to just pop the plastic off.

Wiring into the fuse panel was a different story. Turns out I don't have any empty fuse slots that are switched sources that don't cut power with the auto-start/stop. I spent a ton of time testing each and every one. Very annoying. Almost as annoying as listening to my V1 boot up at every stoplight....

I also learned if your RJ11 wire is too long it won't work correctly. I bought something like a 10' wire to make sure I had plenty, but decided to take the lazy route and not cut it down to size. After about an hour of troubleshooting I figured out it was just too long to work. Cut it down to just the length I needed and now it works.

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