Badlands/ first edition/heritage limited PTU fluid change

Ksnau

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So I noticed there wasn't too much info on this for actually doing it. I actually was looking at a Maverick tremor forum just to make sure I had everything right. So I made a terrible YouTube video of changing my PTU fluid in my heritage limited which I'll post a link to below

Disclaimer: this is only what I did. I'm not recommending it for anyone else. Do your research first.

Tools:
19 mm socket to remove front passenger tire
13 mm socket to remove skid plate
T30 torx to remove four screws that hold skid plate to front bumper
Footlong 3/8 extension for ratchet
8 mm socket. (Deep wall)
Bucket to catch old fluid
Hand pump to put fluid in

Fluid type:
So Ford recommends a 75w85 synthetic hypoid gear lubricant by motorcraft.

The stuff's a pain to find you pretty much just have to order it or go to a dealer and pay too much. So what I used was mobile one 75w90 synthetic gear lubricant with the gl5 oil rating that you can get at AutoZone And I've used it in other PTUs fine. But you know, do your research and make your own decisions.

Also, especially if you do go off-road I would recommend wearing safety glasses so you don't get crap in your eyes and then just remember. Be safe, do your research, especially if you haven't done a process before and don't get in a hurry. If you get angry, walk away for a minute and then come back. It's too easy to strip bolts or mess things up when you're frustrated or angry or in a hurry.

Process:
1. So I jacked up my car behind the front passenger tire and took off the front passenger tire with a 19 mm remember to chalk your wheels and I always like to put the tire once I have it off under the car on the edge. Kind of like where the Jack would go right next to the Jack. So if God forbid the Jack fails, it's going to hit the tire first and help prevent other damage as well as squishing myself.
2. Using a 3/8 ratchet and 1-ft extension with a 8 mm hex drive. I removed the fill plug cuz you always want to make sure you can remove the fill plug before you take off the drain plug and drain the fluid.
3. Remove the skid plate by first taking off the four t30 torx screws on the front bumper
4. Remove the two front 13 mm bolts on the skid plate and just loosen the rear two to slide the skid plate out of the way
5. Using the 8 mm deep socket and 3/8 ratchet if you position the ratchet behind the coolant lines and wire loom that's in there horizontal to the bottom of the car. You can actually get it onto The nuts that are on the studs and you can only do about 1/8 of a turn but I got mine off and then you just slide out the coolant core and the oil will start coming out into your bucket.
6. Once it's either stopped dripping or basically stop dripping, I always put a little bit of fluid in through the fill plug. Just to push out the little bit that's left in there. And honestly just to make sure that I'm filling up through the correct fill Port. If it's something that I haven't done before or done in a while cuz that would suck to drain fluid out of somewhere. Think you're filling it up but you're actually putting in a different port and then it's empty.
7. And then I put the coolant core back on just with the same process reversed. Although when you put the coolant core back in, make sure it's fully seated against the face of the PTU before you start screwing the studs in do not use the studs to seat it in because it's attached to those coolant lines and it makes it one up kind of turn and not go all the way in so you have to mess with it a little
8. Using the hand pump you just fill the fill port until it's full and starts overflowing. Now when I do this I always after I see it start overflowing I stop wait like a minute and then I fill it up again cuz mine always takes more and I'll do that like three times to make sure it's actually full because it's hard to get your hose very far in that port and so you want to give it a minute to really fill up all of the PTU and drain down.
9. Now that you're thoroughly covered in oil, you can clean yourself up. Clean off the fill plug and then put it back in. Now before you start putting stuff back together triple check that you've got everything put back together right? And you're not missing any screws or anything
10. Once the coolant core and fill plug are back on and your and you double check that they're good, you can put the skid plate back on Rememberr those four screws that go through the bumper. So your skid plate is going to sit behind the bumper and it is a pain. If you don't have a second person, I recommend getting like a coffee can or something to hold up one end of the front of the skid plate. After you've wedged it into the two rear bolts, get a coffee can to hold up one corner of the front while you work on the other one and then once you have the bolt started on one corner you can go to the other side and do the other front corner or just have a second person. And then You just have to put your tire back on. I always snug my lug nuts down by hand so it's as tight as I can get with the wheel spinning off the ground and then I lower it to the ground and tighten them down.

And that about covers it. Just remember to be smart and be safe and do your research first, especially if you haven't done something before and don't get in a hurry.

Terrible video link:

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NMhunter

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Thanks! Your writeup reminds me of a Volkswagon repair guide for Idiots that I had it the '70's. It would tell you everything you needed to know. For example, "Lay on your left side with the 10mm socket on your ratchet and use your right hand and loosen the....". It was invaluable for a young kid learning how to work on cars.
 
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Ksnau

Ksnau

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Well I tried to do this one a lot better than my last ones. My last ones I would just voice dictate. Maybe make a few paragraphs done and I wouldn't even go back and edit.

And yeah I've done some really dumb stuff repairing cars so I hope It helps people not make the same mistake. especially with a car like this. You know you're going to get people who've probably never turned a wrench before especially with you know everything costing more and with Ford not quoting the right price and then changing it at the last minute. It's definitely worth it to do the stuff yourself and unfortunately Ford still hasn't admitted that you need to change this stuff or that you need to change it way more often because they do dumb stuff like not make the transmission filter replaceable without dropping everything and splitting the case, which is the dumbest thing I've ever heard of or saying that transfer case/ PTU fluid is lifetime or same with the rear diff every fluid on anything has to be changed. I still don't get how they made fuel filters lifetime that scares the s*** out of me still
 
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Ksnau

Ksnau

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I'm going to do the transmission one soon but my buddy who hasn't really worked on cars. He has a 23 Badlands and so I've been waiting so we can do his at the same time as mine so that one might be a couple weeks out even though I meant to do it months ago
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