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It’s nice to have, and pretty convenient to use. It was 260 when i bought it. You could get more security for the money with a pistol box bolted or chained somewhere (cables are way too easy to chew through with pocket sized tools). More effort to figure out size and mounting though. It’s a nice...

Had a Jackery 300, it didn’t handle heat well. Been very happy with my EcoFlow river that replaced it. Better vented, allows you to monitor temps and change fan modes.

Mine are always within a psi of my digital gauge and compressor if I fill up in the shade and the car has been parked. Things vary a bit more when filling up hot or even warm tires.

Yeah, I do some bicycle and sled camping, where bulk matters more than weight. I’ve got a backpacking air pad with fiber fill. They weigh a bit more than foam, but pack down so tiny.

My only worry with the Rally skid plate and oil changes was losing the spacers. I epoxied them in place. Bolts roll in circles or curly cues, but spacers will keep rolling straight out of sight.

You can also get air mattresses with a bit of fiber fill in them. Less bulk and weight than foam, but enough to stop convection in the mattress. Pretty happy with this one for car camping. https://www.rei.com/product/136261/rei-co-op-kingdom-insulated-air-bed-queen. I’d probably put down a...

I can assure you two of those little tabs have a minimum breaking strength far lower than your tow rope or winch line. These are the main connection point for the nudge bars I’ve seen, with one more small bolt below.

The tow hitch is pulling on much larger bolts in shear, well equalized, bolted to a place on the frame meant to take towing loads. The bull bar is levering on much smaller bolts, in tension/bending on frame parts of unknown strength. Not an engineer, but have some idea of the forces and...

Yeah, all the nudge bars just use the bolt locations that stabilize the tow hooks from turning. Besides being at least 4x as strong as any one of those bolts, the tow hook is attached deeper in the frame in a presumably stronger location. The eight bolts would probably be strong enough, but...

Well, enough people have that their JD power ranking is lower than Jeep. Higher than Ford this year, but it was the reverse in 2020 and ‘21 when I got my BS.

Ford’s reliability rankings are back down lately, but Honda has been below average for a while. I had a 2017 CRV that was a lemon. My folks had a 2000 odyssey that needed major transmission work after 60k.

The aluminum recovery points rated to 9500 lbs are giving working load, so recovering a vehicle that weight. So you’re doubling the safety factor. In the case of the Factor 55 Hitchlink with an MBS of 51,000lbs, taking it over 10:1. There aren’t any big concerns with cycling loading or abrasion...

235/70/R16, same outer dimensions as the factory all terrain tire option. https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/steel-16%E2%80%9D-wheels.2262/

Yeah, if I had a longer rope with damage near an end, I’d do a figure eight until I could re-splice or replace. Depending on condition of the rest of the rope. Can’t really think of any other scenario.

I wouldn’t tie any knots. Bowline or not, you’re gonna have a hell of a time untying a rope that stretchy after those kind of loads. You’d also be losing probably 20-35% strength. You lose about 40% with a bowline, but that is compared to a perfect anchor like several wraps on a big bollard...

I can recommend against the covercraft one. It’s bulky and not reflective enough. Feels like it gets just as hot as a black dash. I just cut a piece of reflectix to replace it. If you want most compact, go fabric, if you want best thermal performance, go with the shiny bubble wrap ones.

Wow! That one looks even bigger for it’s nominal diameter than the Bubba or Yankum ropes. Maybe a puffy hollow braid? My 5/8” x20’ Bubba rope fits along side the full size spare. It feels at least as fat as a 7/8” of most normal ropes like yacht braid.

I had mine replaced by a local guy, ford glass was 685 installed, cash price, 360+, no wiper heaters. I forget the exact price, but aftermarket was something like 575. I don’t think he recalibrated anything, but haven’t had any issues with the sensors.

The 2.0L BS with 1100 pounds of payload only weighs 4800 lbs. Upper end of the 5/8” yankum rope’s rating, mid range of the 3/4”

I’d rather snap a rope than yank part of a vehicle off. I went 5/8”, and wouldn’t go over 3/4”. Too big of rope won’t stretch as much, and you’ll get higher shock loads over a shorter period. I’ve read size for the smaller vehicle either being recovered or doing the pull. Other thing to keep in...