- First Name
- Nelson
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- Jul 18, 2022
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- California
- Vehicle(s)
- 2022 Ford Bronco Sport
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This is a detailed write-up on how to retrofit ACC to Bronco Sport. The retrofit will work with both 1.5L and 2.0 Bronco Sport because the vehicle platform is the same (Ford C2).
Thank you for everyone's patience, I was dealing with a job relocation and moving for the past few months.
I have done a total of 20,000 miles of driving on both highways and the city. Apart from Lane centering not working as of right now, everything else should work. I will post more detailed photos under this thread.
First of all, thank you for the information from:
baaron from Mavericktruckclub forum
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/diy-how-to-install-adaptive-cruise-control-in-maverick-hybrid-xlt-with-luxury-package.14586/
360alaska from www.fordescape.org forum
https://www.fordescape.org/threads/how-to-adding-adaptive-cruise-non-stop-go-and-copilot-assist.117530/
Their information, wiring diagram, and steps are crucial for my retrofit.
**This modification requires some work, I will try to explain everything as detail as possible. And same as a lot of modification that requires hardware and software changes, please be in mind to do it at your own risk. (Especially later removing the Airbag, don't make it kaboom...)**
Something you need to prepare before starting:
MM wave Sensor Part #: LB5T-9G768-AB
MM wave Sensor Cover Part #: M1PZ17E810AA
MM wave Sensor Bracket Part #: M1PZ14C022A
Steering Wheel Control Part #: M1PZ9C888AA
20 AWG automotive wires
22AWG CANbus wires
Electrical tape
Automotive harness cloth tape
I will not include the price for each part because the price may vary from place to place. Especially the MM wave sensor, I am using one from a totaled Explorer. One suggestion I can give is to get most of the parts from fordparts.com. You can pick them up from your preferred dealer near you.
Taking apart the bumper is quite easy, you can follow this video to do that.
Overall it is quite straightforward. If you have a model with a camera cleaner, be careful with the water lines, don't pull too hard since you will rip apart the tubes.
First I acquired the system diagram for the Image Processing Module A (IPMA) The Millimeter-wave sensor directly communicates with the IPMA on CANbus. In the original factory harness for vehicles with ACC, the harness will have the MM wave sensor wires built-in, you can still buy the wire from Ford, but that need you to replace a lot of wire harness in the car, and basically, you need to take part the whole front end of the car.
According to the diagram, I need to establish a connection between the sensor and the IPMA.
Below is an electrical wiring diagram of the engine compartment.
Upon inspection, the wire that connects the millimeter wave radar sensor to the harness assembly is 14290A. However, with my visual inspection, my vehicle does not have the connector for 14290A on 12A522.
With some further wire tracing, in order to change Harness 12A522, I also need to take apart the front radiator to fully remove the harness. Since I don’t have the equipment to take apart the radiator assembly. I chose to make my own harness for the MM wave sensor.
I acquired a MM wave sensor from a wrecked Ford Explorer, the same MM wave sensor used on my vehicle. I also acquired a new sensor bracket and sensor cover. A new bracket will ensure a correct fit, which is essential for the sensor calibration later. Make sure to ask whoever you buy the sensor from if they will include the plug.
There are several different configurations of the sensor, but they can all be programmed
I purchased 20 AWG automotive wires, 22 AWG CANbus wires, automotive cloth tape, electrical tape, and protective wire tubes for making the harness.
You can pass through the wires from a hole at your driver's side door, there is a grommet that can be routed with cables to the inside of the cabin. I routed through my firewall which is very hard and time-consuming. So I advise you to use the hole at the driver's door. Make sure to properly seal the grommet after routing the wires.
According to this MM wave sensor pigtail diagram
I used CANbus Wire to connect #3 CAN High and #2 CAN low. Then I used a 20AWG wire to connect power on #1 and #4.
You can use a fuse tap to tap on fuse 5 (20A) which is lock/unlock. this will ensure you get power for the sensor. From other forums, it is advised you tap into the ignition, but currently, the ACC need 1-2 power cycle to activate them, if you put on the ignition, you need to start/stop the engine several times to make it work, putting on lock/unlock means you can turn the power of the vehicle on/off to set it. When it is working, you will see a grey box appearing on your cluster. That means it is working.
The two CANbus wires need to reach the IPMA on the windshield behind the rear mirror. I connected the CAN High and CAN Low by splicing them into the IPMA plug at #3 and #11.
For the power delivery, I tied in the sensor wire to the fuse panel.
With all the wiring done, I turned on the vehicle to check if the system detect the new unit. When the ignition is on, the cluster shows the message “Front Sensor Adjustment required.” That means the IPMA is able to establish a connection with the MM wave sensor at the front of the vehicle. The sensor now needs additional programming and physical calibration once everything is installed.
I cut out the front facia of the radiator bracket and exposed the mounting points for the sensor bracket. You need a shear to cut out the slots, but there are ridges on the original bumper, just follow the lines. The best way is to use a utility knife to mark the cutting and then use a shear to cut it. It will make sure your cuts are clean and avoid cracking the bracket.
Then I installed the MM wave sensor on the bracket and used a spirit level to calibrate the angle of the MM wave sensor.
After putting all the panels back, route the wire to the engine compartment. I moved to the steering wheel to replace the control switch.
I disconnected the battery again because, in order to change the steering wheel control switch, I need to take off the airbag. When the vehicle has power, there might be a risk to trigger the airbag to deploy.
Use a long small flat head screwdriver to release the pins. Again disconnect the battery when you do it, otherwise, you may have the risk of triggering the airbag.
I switched out the regular cruise control switch to the adaptive cruise control switch.
Upon putting back the steering wheel assembly, connect the battery. I checked if the vehicle can be turned on and closed up all the panels. After this step, all the physical modification of this project is done.
In order to make the Adaptive cruise control work, the Image Processing Unit (IPMA), Cruise Control Module (CCM), ABS, Steering Column Control Module (SCCM), Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC), Body Control Module (BCM), and Human Machine Interface Module(APIM) all need to be reprogrammed.
I used a test version of Forscan software provided by the Forscan team to do the reprogramming. But for now the official version support all of them.
First, on the High-Speed CANbus, I accessed the BCM to change the vehicle cruise control protocol to “Adaptive Cruise Control.”
Then in APIM, I added “Adaptive Cruise Control, Intelligent Adaptive Cruise Control, Traffic Sign Recognition, Evasive Steering, Pre-Collision Brake Mitigation” to the Driver Assist section.
After the BCM and APIM reprogramming, I switched to Mid Speed CANbus to program the rest of the modules.
Starting with IPC, The visualization of the adaptive cruise control is shown on the instrument cluster, So I enabled the traffic sign recognition and adaptive cruise control panel on the Cluster Screen.
Then I need to program the CCM. Since the MM wave sensor comes from a Ford Explorer, I need to change the vehicle VIN and Vehicle model to the CCM.
The VIN number on the vehicle is in ASCII but CANbus recognize hexadecimal codes. I converted my VIN number to hexadecimal. This will establish a correct connection with IPMA, IPC and ABS since all of these modules use VIN to cross-check the integrity of the system.
In IPMA, I reprogrammed the cruise control function, traffic sign recognition, lane centering, distance alert, and pre-collision mitigation.
I am doing it by the code since when I was doing it, a lot of stuff is not available for easy enable/disable.
My vehicle does not come with factory navigation, I used the camera + map choice on the IPMA for traffic sign recognition. The recognition data will be a reference for the intelligent adaptive cruise control to adjust the vehicle speed. I didn't choose to get a APIM with navigation because I am not using the factory map a lot.
Since I changed the steering wheel switch, the programming of SCCM needs to be altered in order to recognize the new switch. I wrote the new program to the SCCM to establish a connection with the new switch. The one you need to use must match the back sticker of the switch. But overall it should be something the same as your original part number but end with D rather than A.
ABS program detail
My vehicle does not come with Adaptive cruise control, so the ABS pump is a regular vacuum-boosted pump rather than an electric-boosted pump. The electric booster pump will initiate smoother braking when the vehicle is on adaptive cruise control in the city.
While the vacuum-boosted pump will have stepped braking applied at each stop. But it will only be noticeable when using Adaptive Cruise Control in Stop & Go traffic. Both pumps are able to function with the adaptive cruise control without any safety concerns.
The last step is to calibrate the front sensor.
The calibration will let the MM wave sensor and Camera collect data to establish its angle and sensitivity. There is a function in the forscan for calibration.
First, park your car on a flat surface, double check that! Then level the MM wave sensor to make it parallel to the ground. The adjustment is done by the screw at the bottom of the bracket. Do it slowly and triple-check it is correct.
I did the calibration early in the morning on a straight road where there is no excessive traffic.
The calibration will require the vehicle to move at a constant speed above 30 mph. And there will be minimum metal objects like metal billboards on the side of the road.
I finished the calibration in 15 minutes with both the sensor and camera calibrated.
After the calibration, the Adaptive Cruise Control is now in working condition.
Again, I will post more photos in the thread, probably this weekend since I need to wire the BRONCO LEDs to the bumper.
I will also share a more detailed Forscan setting in the thread (plus some other things you can enable in the vehicle), I don't have screenshots for the new version
Thank you for everyone's patience, please let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you for everyone's patience, I was dealing with a job relocation and moving for the past few months.
I have done a total of 20,000 miles of driving on both highways and the city. Apart from Lane centering not working as of right now, everything else should work. I will post more detailed photos under this thread.
First of all, thank you for the information from:
baaron from Mavericktruckclub forum
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/diy-how-to-install-adaptive-cruise-control-in-maverick-hybrid-xlt-with-luxury-package.14586/
360alaska from www.fordescape.org forum
https://www.fordescape.org/threads/how-to-adding-adaptive-cruise-non-stop-go-and-copilot-assist.117530/
Their information, wiring diagram, and steps are crucial for my retrofit.
**This modification requires some work, I will try to explain everything as detail as possible. And same as a lot of modification that requires hardware and software changes, please be in mind to do it at your own risk. (Especially later removing the Airbag, don't make it kaboom...)**
Something you need to prepare before starting:
MM wave Sensor Part #: LB5T-9G768-AB
MM wave Sensor Cover Part #: M1PZ17E810AA
MM wave Sensor Bracket Part #: M1PZ14C022A
Steering Wheel Control Part #: M1PZ9C888AA
20 AWG automotive wires
22AWG CANbus wires
Electrical tape
Automotive harness cloth tape
I will not include the price for each part because the price may vary from place to place. Especially the MM wave sensor, I am using one from a totaled Explorer. One suggestion I can give is to get most of the parts from fordparts.com. You can pick them up from your preferred dealer near you.
Taking apart the bumper is quite easy, you can follow this video to do that.
Overall it is quite straightforward. If you have a model with a camera cleaner, be careful with the water lines, don't pull too hard since you will rip apart the tubes.
First I acquired the system diagram for the Image Processing Module A (IPMA) The Millimeter-wave sensor directly communicates with the IPMA on CANbus. In the original factory harness for vehicles with ACC, the harness will have the MM wave sensor wires built-in, you can still buy the wire from Ford, but that need you to replace a lot of wire harness in the car, and basically, you need to take part the whole front end of the car.
According to the diagram, I need to establish a connection between the sensor and the IPMA.
Below is an electrical wiring diagram of the engine compartment.
Upon inspection, the wire that connects the millimeter wave radar sensor to the harness assembly is 14290A. However, with my visual inspection, my vehicle does not have the connector for 14290A on 12A522.
With some further wire tracing, in order to change Harness 12A522, I also need to take apart the front radiator to fully remove the harness. Since I don’t have the equipment to take apart the radiator assembly. I chose to make my own harness for the MM wave sensor.
I acquired a MM wave sensor from a wrecked Ford Explorer, the same MM wave sensor used on my vehicle. I also acquired a new sensor bracket and sensor cover. A new bracket will ensure a correct fit, which is essential for the sensor calibration later. Make sure to ask whoever you buy the sensor from if they will include the plug.
There are several different configurations of the sensor, but they can all be programmed
I purchased 20 AWG automotive wires, 22 AWG CANbus wires, automotive cloth tape, electrical tape, and protective wire tubes for making the harness.
You can pass through the wires from a hole at your driver's side door, there is a grommet that can be routed with cables to the inside of the cabin. I routed through my firewall which is very hard and time-consuming. So I advise you to use the hole at the driver's door. Make sure to properly seal the grommet after routing the wires.
According to this MM wave sensor pigtail diagram
I used CANbus Wire to connect #3 CAN High and #2 CAN low. Then I used a 20AWG wire to connect power on #1 and #4.
You can use a fuse tap to tap on fuse 5 (20A) which is lock/unlock. this will ensure you get power for the sensor. From other forums, it is advised you tap into the ignition, but currently, the ACC need 1-2 power cycle to activate them, if you put on the ignition, you need to start/stop the engine several times to make it work, putting on lock/unlock means you can turn the power of the vehicle on/off to set it. When it is working, you will see a grey box appearing on your cluster. That means it is working.
The two CANbus wires need to reach the IPMA on the windshield behind the rear mirror. I connected the CAN High and CAN Low by splicing them into the IPMA plug at #3 and #11.
For the power delivery, I tied in the sensor wire to the fuse panel.
With all the wiring done, I turned on the vehicle to check if the system detect the new unit. When the ignition is on, the cluster shows the message “Front Sensor Adjustment required.” That means the IPMA is able to establish a connection with the MM wave sensor at the front of the vehicle. The sensor now needs additional programming and physical calibration once everything is installed.
I cut out the front facia of the radiator bracket and exposed the mounting points for the sensor bracket. You need a shear to cut out the slots, but there are ridges on the original bumper, just follow the lines. The best way is to use a utility knife to mark the cutting and then use a shear to cut it. It will make sure your cuts are clean and avoid cracking the bracket.
Then I installed the MM wave sensor on the bracket and used a spirit level to calibrate the angle of the MM wave sensor.
After putting all the panels back, route the wire to the engine compartment. I moved to the steering wheel to replace the control switch.
I disconnected the battery again because, in order to change the steering wheel control switch, I need to take off the airbag. When the vehicle has power, there might be a risk to trigger the airbag to deploy.
Use a long small flat head screwdriver to release the pins. Again disconnect the battery when you do it, otherwise, you may have the risk of triggering the airbag.
I switched out the regular cruise control switch to the adaptive cruise control switch.
Upon putting back the steering wheel assembly, connect the battery. I checked if the vehicle can be turned on and closed up all the panels. After this step, all the physical modification of this project is done.
In order to make the Adaptive cruise control work, the Image Processing Unit (IPMA), Cruise Control Module (CCM), ABS, Steering Column Control Module (SCCM), Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC), Body Control Module (BCM), and Human Machine Interface Module(APIM) all need to be reprogrammed.
I used a test version of Forscan software provided by the Forscan team to do the reprogramming. But for now the official version support all of them.
First, on the High-Speed CANbus, I accessed the BCM to change the vehicle cruise control protocol to “Adaptive Cruise Control.”
Then in APIM, I added “Adaptive Cruise Control, Intelligent Adaptive Cruise Control, Traffic Sign Recognition, Evasive Steering, Pre-Collision Brake Mitigation” to the Driver Assist section.
After the BCM and APIM reprogramming, I switched to Mid Speed CANbus to program the rest of the modules.
Starting with IPC, The visualization of the adaptive cruise control is shown on the instrument cluster, So I enabled the traffic sign recognition and adaptive cruise control panel on the Cluster Screen.
Then I need to program the CCM. Since the MM wave sensor comes from a Ford Explorer, I need to change the vehicle VIN and Vehicle model to the CCM.
The VIN number on the vehicle is in ASCII but CANbus recognize hexadecimal codes. I converted my VIN number to hexadecimal. This will establish a correct connection with IPMA, IPC and ABS since all of these modules use VIN to cross-check the integrity of the system.
In IPMA, I reprogrammed the cruise control function, traffic sign recognition, lane centering, distance alert, and pre-collision mitigation.
I am doing it by the code since when I was doing it, a lot of stuff is not available for easy enable/disable.
My vehicle does not come with factory navigation, I used the camera + map choice on the IPMA for traffic sign recognition. The recognition data will be a reference for the intelligent adaptive cruise control to adjust the vehicle speed. I didn't choose to get a APIM with navigation because I am not using the factory map a lot.
Since I changed the steering wheel switch, the programming of SCCM needs to be altered in order to recognize the new switch. I wrote the new program to the SCCM to establish a connection with the new switch. The one you need to use must match the back sticker of the switch. But overall it should be something the same as your original part number but end with D rather than A.
ABS program detail
My vehicle does not come with Adaptive cruise control, so the ABS pump is a regular vacuum-boosted pump rather than an electric-boosted pump. The electric booster pump will initiate smoother braking when the vehicle is on adaptive cruise control in the city.
While the vacuum-boosted pump will have stepped braking applied at each stop. But it will only be noticeable when using Adaptive Cruise Control in Stop & Go traffic. Both pumps are able to function with the adaptive cruise control without any safety concerns.
The last step is to calibrate the front sensor.
The calibration will let the MM wave sensor and Camera collect data to establish its angle and sensitivity. There is a function in the forscan for calibration.
First, park your car on a flat surface, double check that! Then level the MM wave sensor to make it parallel to the ground. The adjustment is done by the screw at the bottom of the bracket. Do it slowly and triple-check it is correct.
I did the calibration early in the morning on a straight road where there is no excessive traffic.
The calibration will require the vehicle to move at a constant speed above 30 mph. And there will be minimum metal objects like metal billboards on the side of the road.
I finished the calibration in 15 minutes with both the sensor and camera calibrated.
After the calibration, the Adaptive Cruise Control is now in working condition.
Again, I will post more photos in the thread, probably this weekend since I need to wire the BRONCO LEDs to the bumper.
I will also share a more detailed Forscan setting in the thread (plus some other things you can enable in the vehicle), I don't have screenshots for the new version
Thank you for everyone's patience, please let me know if you have any questions.
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