In my mind, the other ways you are describing improving the bass involve more in depth work than getting at the stock subwoofer. Of course they also probably result in more improvement to the bass.
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Has anyone ever ran the Hertz X170s? Not looking to upgrade the amp, crutchfield is recommending those over Powerbass because of efficiency, just curious if anyone over here has had any experience with these compared to the B&O factory system. Thanks
What's the trick with this stuff? Make a stencil, cut it to size and slap it over everything? My concern would be covering up things that may need to be accessed in the future.....but it looks like people cover up just about everything but the speaker itself. Any tips??This takes care of the buzzing:
It is really easy to cut. Just have a snap knife handy. It also stretches pretty easily, so you can just slap it on and then form it over all the little things. If something ever needed getting to in the future, you can easily cut through the stuff to expose what you need. That plastic panel cannot be (easily) removed anyway, if the window mechanism or motor ever needs to be replaced.
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This might be a silly question, but do this apply to the base sound system? I agree it is pretty weak (I don't have the B&O either). Would these speaker recommendations work on the base sound system as replacements? Also I am pretty sure my driver dash speaker is blown 
There are a lot of things on the door panel that can rattle. I’m sure the base stereo would benefit from a speaker upgrade and while you are there, coating the door panel with the mastic is highly recommended. The standard stereo has the same speakers in the front/back doors, which happen to be the same speakers in the rear doors of the B&O. They really are the lowest quality speakers you can imagine. The PowerBass speakers are a direct fit, even the electrical connectors. Totally plug-n-play to install them.This might be a silly question, but do this apply to the base sound system? I agree it is pretty weak (I don't have the B&O either). Would these speaker recommendations work on the base sound system as replacements? Also I am pretty sure my driver dash speaker is blown
Excellent! Thank you ...put the new speakers in the front tonight but held off on the sound deadening. My new problem is the driver side door lock/unlock buttons aren't working. The plug is reconnected but the buttons themselves are still depressed and don't actually "push"/move. I'm almost positive the plug is inserted properly, and the passenger side works normally. I wonder if some gasket fell off that I didn't notice or maybe the plug isn't fully inserted(although I'm sure it is, the clips all snapped back in on the plug. Ran out of daylight and had to pull the plug. Will dig in tomorrow to figure out what's going on!
Oh and I broke 3 clips!
man is it a bitch to find plastic retainer clips online. There the ones that slide over top of the plastic pieces on the window/door lock piece. Wonder if my local dealer has a bunch on hand
I broke a clip on the door handle cables but when I put everything back together it still works.Oh and I broke 3 clips!
Having a plastic clip prying tool (the horseshoe shaped thing) is a must for the BS.
Figured out the problem, for some dumb reason I pulled the back of the switch out instead the actual plug....when I laid the panel down in the frass the silicone insert inside the plug fell out so when I reinstalled everything the buttons never depressed. Had to verify this on passenger side then I found the rubber insert in the grass. I'll pop it back in in the morning. Added the sound deadening material and installed the rear speakers, they sound great just need some break in time. There's 2 clips in the door/window switch, white ones and black ones. I'll post part #s in the morning. Ordered some through Ford to replace the ones I broke and keep a few on hand for the future
thanks again for all of your help
Well thank you all for the info! I just finished all 4 speakers, sound deadener in all 4 doors and a Rockford Punch 300-10 in the rear. All in all not bad for around $600 (I did the labor). Started at 9am this morning and just finished. What made it easier was taking the driver side rear panel off and getting the front speaker wires off of the B&O amp. I used the fronts for the high level input into the sub. Very happy with the upgrade, not sounds like what the B&O system should be!
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