Rear License Plate Holes Stripped

[hf995]

So I decided to replace the lovely used and pre-rusted license plate fasteners the dealership used to install my rear plates. However, when I went to go tighten the new fasteners them down they both started slipping/skipping and are feeling a little loose/stripped. Anybody have any tip/idea on how to deal with this issue? I'd hate to loose a plate over what seem like such a flimsy design. Thanks!

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[magicbus]

You could try the old carpenter trick of breaking a wooden toothpick in a couple of pieces and sticking them into the holes and then inserting the screws. To toothpicks fill the gap and allow the screws to bite, and then they swell a bit and really hold.

 

[Mark S.]

So I decided to replace the lovely used and pre-rusted license plate fasteners the dealership used to install my rear plates. However, when I went to go tighten the new fasteners them down they both started slipping/skipping and are feeling a little loose/stripped. Anybody have any tip/idea on how to deal with this issue? I'd hate to loose a plate over what seem like such a flimsy design. Thanks!

Are the threads stripped, or is it hardware slipping inside the hole?

 

[hf995]

Are the threads stripped, or is it hardware slipping inside the hole?

I perhaps it started as the hardware slipping, but I think by now the female threads are stripped.

 

[seoden88]

its plastic. Its not going to be "tight" its just to hold plate on. doesnt need 500ft.lbs of force

 

[hf995]

its plastic. Its not going to be "tight" its just to hold plate on. doesnt need 500ft.lbs of force

Sure, I get that.... Let's change the adjective to "secure" and say it's not feeling particular secure in there.

 

[Barry S.]

Put a plastic anchor in the hole and screw the steel screw into the anchor. It should expand enough to give it a tight fit.

 

[Meanderthal]

You can get plastic inserts, but you would have to cut big holes in the bumper to fit them in. I would suggest getting a larger diameter screw, like going to a #10 screw over a #8. There are no threads in those holes from Ford, when the screws are put in they make their own threads. Someone probably used an electric drill/driver and over did it, which stripped the plastic.

 

[Major Kong]

one of the posters here offered up a tidbit
pop-rivet with a threaded nut
buried it in my bronco boomarked items somewhere
thoughts.........
proper sized washer on the backside of plastic contains the rivet spread
sandwiches plastic

 

[Mark S.]

one of the posters here offered up a tidbit
pop-rivet with a threaded nut
buried it in my bronco boomarked items somewhere
thoughts.........

The rivet nuts in the photo are corrosion proof, but the hole in the sheet metal isn't. I would look for a fastener with a seal to prevent water intrusion, such as these.

 

[Meanderthal]

The rivet nuts in the photo are corrosion proof, but the hole in the sheet metal isn't. I would look for a fastener with a seal to prevent water intrusion, such as these.

I don’t think there is any metal behind the license plate holder. Okay, I’m sure there is metal there somewhere, but what I mean is that the license plate is held on with only plastic.

 

[Mark S.]

I don’t think there is any metal behind the license plate holder. Okay, I’m sure there is metal there somewhere, but what I mean is that the license plate is held on with only plastic.

I thought you were suggesting replacing the plastic inserts with riv nuts. I don't believe you can install that kind of riv nut in plastic, but you can get riv nuts made for plastic.

https://www.mcmaster.com/rivets/rivet-nuts-for-plastic-and-composites/

 

[Glamdring70]

Your standard license plate mounting kit from any cheap hardware department in Kroger or Autozone has the nylon retaining inserts you need to do this repair. They're like drywall mollies, but for a car bumper. Or you can get fancier with the rivnuts and all sorts of hardware pieces. I bet you could easily spend $100's mounting a plate with security screws, nylock nuts, anti-rattle silicone rubber backer, frame and beauty caps in anything from stainless steel to gold plate!

I agree with the person above that said it is all plastic. The rear plate just goes through a plastic panel. No metal back there unless you add a backing plate. My dealer had the temp plate on with top two screws. I made it a full set of 4 when I put on the real plates.

 

[Meanderthal]

I thought you were suggesting replacing the plastic inserts with riv nuts. I don't believe you can install that kind of riv nut in plastic, but you can get riv nuts made for plastic.

https://www.mcmaster.com/rivets/rivet-nuts-for-plastic-and-composites/

Not me, that was @Major Kong.

 

[Mark S.]

Not me, that was @Major Kong.

Maybe I'm the one who needs a nap...

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