SapphireCat

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Hello all,

With my previous cars, I have added dashcams and some kind soul for the most part had mapped the fuses for always on/switched on so you could use fuse taps to make those accessories work with pretty minimal work on your own. I've not seen a comprehensive list yet in this forum (although a general consensus of fuse 3 is out there), so because I'm going to be powering my dash cam for normal and parking modes and adding my GMRS radio via fuse taps, I spent some time Saturday testing all the fuses in the interior fuse box (not the box in the engine compartment) to see which fuses indicated power when the car was off, in accessory mode, and when running. I thought I would share what I discovered.

So, here are my caveats with this (based on internet and real world experience):
  • Always test your own fuses to confirm. Sometimes things change during build years.
  • I do not know how the auto-stop/start function impacts these fuses and the performance of the items you might connect to them.
  • I am not making any recommendations about what fuses to tap. My general common sense says don't use a fuse that controls a vehicle system if you can avoid it, and if you can't, either be absolutely sure you know what you're doing or pay someone who does know. The last thing you want is a vehicle system not responding or your airbags going off because you messed with the fuses and something happened.

    I am not responsible for how you use this information, so as the Knight warned in Indiana Jones - choose wisely.

  • I have a Big Bend trim. Build date of 6/2022.
  • I did not test the fuse labeled "25"
Fuse Number
Vehicle off - Passenger door open and waited 45 minutes after the interior lights went off to test. Key was in the house.
Then repeated - key was in the car but other variables the same.
Full accessory mode
Engine Running
4, 5, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24
Powered​
Powered​
Powered​
1, 2, 3, 6, 8, 9, 15, 16
No Power​
Powered​
Powered​

Fuse taps do have a direction to them - I found this video to be helpful in explaining that. In that vein, I pulled the Micro 2 fuses listed as "Not Used" or "Not used (spare)" in my Owners Manual and tested the sides to see which side was hot. This was the results of that test (red circles are the side showing power when the fuses are pulled. Sorry this picture is too dark to see the fuse numbers. I basically flipped the owners manual on it's side and the picture then matches the orientation in the car. There are labels for the fuses on the panel.):
Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Box Analysis: Switch vs. Always-On for Fuse Taps 20220815_011936992_iOS (2)


I did not test the Micro 3 "Not used" fuses as I do not plan to use a Micro 3 fuse tap.
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salasxchris

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First off, amazing write up! I was doing some research and was unable to find this information and I pondered doing this, but I wasn't too confident about doing so.

I installed a subwoofer in my BS using "Audio Signal Detection" as a means to turn on the amplifier, but this led to the amplifier staying on due to what I can only presume as there being a tiny amount of signal going through the speakers (maybe the door chime). I never had the amp stay on long enough for my battery to die but I feared that it was possible.

Fast forward and I found another post of someone using Fuse 3 (Micro 2) as a means for powering accessories. I used this for my amplifier and switch it to Remote turn on (powers on with 12V) and so far it's been working OK. I've noticed that while the engine cuts off at a stoplight (auto stop/start) my amplifier turns off and kicks back on when the engine turns on. This doesn't happen every time which is odd, but so far I haven't noticed a pattern that helps me rule out the issue. It's working better now compared to when I was using the audio signal only, but I'm trying to find a better solution to this.
 
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SapphireCat

SapphireCat

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Fast forward and I found another post of someone using Fuse 3 (Micro 2) as a means for powering accessories. I used this for my amplifier and switch it to Remote turn on (powers on with 12V) and so far it's been working OK. I've noticed that while the engine cuts off at a stoplight (auto stop/start) my amplifier turns off and kicks back on when the engine turns on. This doesn't happen every time which is odd, but so far I haven't noticed a pattern that helps me rule out the issue. It's working better now compared to when I was using the audio signal only, but I'm trying to find a better solution to this.
Thanks! It has been interesting doing projects on a new model car where there isn't a ton of information out there already. :cool: I figure I've gotten enough information out of various forums for previous car projects that I should make a concerted effort to contribute to this one when I can haha.

So, in researching the installation of my dashcam someone on one of the threads here mentioned that when they used Fuse 3 their dash cam also shut off when auto start/stop happened. I actually hooked my camera up to test that on Fuse 3, and I did not have the same experience. However, we had different dashcams. Someone on that same thread mentioned that they thought perhaps his camera had a higher power draw. I have a hypothesis, but can't think of a way to test this without having someone do a voltage read of Fuse 3 when the car has done the auto start/stop (or maybe I don't have the right tool haha), but I'm wondering if the power drops on that fuse from 12V to 6V (I've seen this mentioned on a Audi thread before - I had a VW previously) and accessories that require the higher voltage shut off while accessories with a lower draw can stay on.

If some one has the ability to test that, I for one would be interested in knowing that info!

In regards to your amp -this may be a dumb thought, but do amps draw variable voltage depending on music complexity/volume? I freely admit I know next to nothing about audio.
 

Mark S.

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I have a hypothesis, but can't think of a way to test this without having someone do a voltage read of Fuse 3 when the car has done the auto start/stop (or maybe I don't have the right tool haha), but I'm wondering if the power drops on that fuse from 12V to 6V (I've seen this mentioned on a Audi thread before - I had a VW previously) and accessories that require the higher voltage shut off while accessories with a lower draw can stay on.
With the engine running, the voltage regulator will keep system voltage at a bit higher than 14 VDC. When the engine is off the system drops to battery voltage of 12-13 VDC. I believe some dashcams sense the voltage drop from engine running to engine off to switch themselves into parking mode, which generally turns off the camera until a G-sensor in the camera registers an impact.
 

Froggy

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I used audio sound sense, instead of the voltage signal sense, on my amp. My battery did go low, because everytime my wife walked past the vehicle and she had the key, the amp would turn on. Without even being in the vehicle. I was going to change that and tap the fuse, but the auto stop feature, I stayed with audio signal sense. It seems to be alot better, because if there is no music, then it shuts off. I used audio control lc2 pro! I also recommend doing the big 3 too.
 


2013LIPK01

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@SapphireCat It's been a while, but do you happen to have a link for the fuse taps you used? I got a set, but can't get them to fit in any of the accessory power fuse slots.

A photo of the fuse box with the taps would also be super helpful!
 
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SapphireCat

SapphireCat

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@SapphireCat It's been a while, but do you happen to have a link for the fuse taps you used? I got a set, but can't get them to fit in any of the accessory power fuse slots.

A photo of the fuse box with the taps would also be super helpful!
I tried a few, but here's the ones I think fit best: https://www.autozone.com/starting-charging-and-miscellaneous-electrical/fuse-power-tap/p/bussmann-circuit-fuse-tap/547344_0_0

I did a write up of my GMRS radio/dashcam install here, but here's the relevant fuse tap picture:
Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Box Analysis: Switch vs. Always-On for Fuse Taps 1688597979361
 

Hat3

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SapphireCat, thanks for all the information! Used to install my Thinkware F200pro. All your hard work made the job easypeazy. Much appreciated!
 

Glamdring70

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Been doing my own fuse box probing. What's fairly annoying, is that most every single fuse in the footwell fuse box is constant power. The only fairly accessible switched fuse is venerable fuse #3. If anyone wants key-on, key-off power, this is your best bet.

But that isn't what I'm after. I want a fuse with RAP or extended power or whatever term you like for it. You know, the stuff that retains power until a door opens or an arbitrary time goes by. Like radio, windows, power ports. The only fuse I have found like that, is fuse #6 which is for the DC/AC inverter. But the thing is wedged in by components that physically make using a tap impossible! Or possibly a slide-over tap could be used instead. I'm just unmotivated to go buy a third type of tap to make my project happen.

If I ever meet the engineer that decided to make the fuses inaccessible without multiple contortions and tools, I'm going to test out all seven of my GOAT modes on them. The whole fuse box is criminal. Multiple types of fuses. Different directions for power feed. Components so close that even the special fuse tweezers don't work.

Here's my tip for you fuse box workers that also happen to have the decontented insulation panel. Once you rip out those stupid one-use barbed plugs they installed it with (right), get yourself a pair of regular plastic body pins to replace them (left). You still need a tool to pull them, but they are reusable and a bit easier to pull.
Ford Bronco Sport Interior Fuse Box Analysis: Switch vs. Always-On for Fuse Taps IMG_20230723_152144792
 


Bucko

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I'm with you on the barbed plugs, unless you buy the tool to remove them; it works, and the plugs are re-usable. Screwdrivers, plyers, or whatever destroy them.

As to fuses and wiring, auto manufacturers design them to protect the circuits installed by the factory. They were not designed or thought out to accommodate aftermarket accessories.

Folks add accessories to existing fuses, then question as to why they may blow. So they install a higher amp fuse. I would not! The fuse and existing wiring for that fuse rating was designed to handle the OEM circuit it was there for. Adding a higher rated fuse to handle the OEM circuit plus your accessory can lead to a wiring failure/fire if a short ever developed in that circuit.

Gotta remember, not everyone that does car wiring thinks it all out first. I've seen first hand quite a few shabby wiring projects done on vehicles I've bought used in the past. Even a few here that installed the side marker lights. Scarry.
 

Mark S.

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If I ever meet the engineer that decided to make the fuses inaccessible without multiple contortions and tools, I'm going to test out all seven of my GOAT modes on them.
Careful. That might be just what they want...
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