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I think this applies to the BMS on our vehicles.

Interesting. Compared to my previous 2013 BMW X1, my early production 2021 BS BL battery is about a third the size and not AGM. Makes you wonder if Ford is saving space/money using lower capacity batteries and using this technique to compensate. My BMW always activated start stop even on short trips for over 7 years with original battery. Using chassis ground used to be standard way to jump start safely and way I use battery conditioner on BS. I'll see if I can post picture of what looks like this control module on my 2021 BS BL - similar location, but smaller than in video. Thanks Econonline for an informational post.

IMG_E4262[1].JPG
 

tennisbp

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I think this applies to the BMS on our vehicles.

Thanks for this. I've been wondering why my trickle charging has only been effectively "charging" my battery for a day's worth of charge.

If I'm understanding this correctly, I should be putting my negative clamp where the Green markers in the photo are? I've been putting them directly on the negative terminal up until now.

Inkedunnamed.jpg
 

Mark S.

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If I'm understanding this correctly, I should be putting my negative clamp where the Green markers in the photo are? I've been putting them directly on the negative terminal up until now.
Connect the positive cable first. Then follow the negative cable over to the bolt connecting the cable to vehicle chassis. That's the best place to connect the negative clamp. There are two reasons (I can think of) for this:
  1. It ensures the BMS is getting the data it needs.
  2. Sparks can ignite gas escaping from the battery. These are sealed batteries, but an unnoticed crack in the case can allow gas to escape. Connecting the negative away from the battery ensures any sparks you might generate by connecting the clamp will not ignite gasses near the battery.
 
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Major Kong

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Connect the positive cable first. Then follow the negative cable over to the bolt connecting the cable to vehicle chassis. That's the best place to connect it. There are two reasons (I can think of) for this:
  1. It ensures the BMS is getting the data it needs.
  2. Sparks can ignite gas escaping from the battery. These are sealed batteries, but an unnoticed crack in the case can allow gas to escape. Connecting the negative away from the battery ensures any sparks you might generate by connecting the clamp will not ignite gasses near the battery.
started to make this correction to ground chassis connection and the entire post/stud began to back out.
wondering if the post/stud is secured by a nut welded to the frame?
it would seem to make sense for grounding purposes.
just didn't care to proceed and have a nut fall and disappear into a frame cavity.
anyone with experience on this conundrum?
 

Mark S.

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started to make this correction to ground chassis connection and the entire post/stud began to back out.
Here's a photo of mine (Badlands). The stud for the ground connection to the chassis is rock solid. If yours is moving around you might need to tighten it up.

20221119_105843.jpg
 

Major Kong

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Here's a photo of mine (Badlands). The stud for the ground connection to the chassis is rock solid. If yours is moving around you might need to tighten it up.

20221119_105843.jpg
similar set up on the base
saw this thread regarding battery neg grounding
my current setup (pun) has maintainer ground on nut(green arrow)
opt to relocate maintainer ground wire
agreed to the rock solid
more than usual degree of cursing to loosen connection
went to back off the 13mm ground nut and the whole stud started to spin out (red arrow)
worried if nut securing post/stud was welded in place or not
concern was that potential for nut to drop inside inaccessible frame section
could try gripping post while backing off nut
seemed pretty snug on the post/stud

1668878619604.png
 

Mark S.

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more than usual degree of cursing to loosen connection
went to back off the 13mm ground nut and the whole stud started to spin out (red arrow)
Hmmm. That's odd. I would try getting a look on the other side of the fender to see what's what. Do you have an inspection mirror?
 

Major Kong

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Hmmm. That's odd. I would try getting a look on the other side of the fender to see what's what. Do you have an inspection mirror?
may just leave ground cable undisturbed "as is"
ground post above nut may just find new company
grounding lug
1668889890631.png


Tossing this vid in as an add-on
note mention of only 7k miles
 


Glamdring70

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Have always had my trickle charge hooked up to the terminals as detailed when I installed it:
https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/project-obronco.2688/post-47293

No issues. I charge with the vehicle off anyhow. I don't know why the video is charging koeo other than to demonstrate that the sensor operates. When you restart the car, it's going to recalculate the battery charge. Video admits the car recalculates state of charge every few hours regardless. If there was any other effect, there would be some complicated procedure to calibrate after a battery replacement. I think the point about not grabbing loads directly off the battery is the most important part.
 

Dude

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Have always had my trickle charge hooked up to the terminals as detailed when I installed it:
https://www.broncosportforum.com/forum/threads/project-obronco.2688/post-47293

No issues. I charge with the vehicle off anyhow. I don't know why the video is charging koeo other than to demonstrate that the sensor operates. When you restart the car, it's going to recalculate the battery charge. Video admits the car recalculates state of charge every few hours regardless. If there was any other effect, there would be some complicated procedure to calibrate after a battery replacement. I think the point about not grabbing loads directly off the battery is the most important part.
Battery Sensor Reset (Battery Management System (BMS) Reset):
When you install a new battery, reset the battery sensor by doing the following:
1. Switch ignition on, and leave the engine off.
Note: Complete Steps 2 & 3 within 10 seconds.
2. Flash the high beam headlamps five times, ending with the high beams off.
3. Press and release the brake pedal 3 times.
The battery warning lamp flashes 3 times to confirm that the reset is successful.
 

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Very interesting thread. My take from this.
I can peak charge my battery any way I want. It’s best to hook the ground clamp to a chassis ground, like I was taught decades ago.
The BMS will auto update the state of charge over night without me doing anything.
As for charge rate I am confused about over coming constant system drain.
I peaked my failing battery in my BS from 12.1 VDC to 12.7 VDC in three hours at 2 amps.
(I peaked my four year old interstate in my 2004 escape that was also at 12.1 VDC to 12.6 VDC also in just three hours also at 2amps.)
Note: the Escape gets driven one day a week, shows the difference in down time electrical drain load.
For example:
I was told by Ford to peak my 23 month old battery at 2 amps right before I brought it in so they could test it faster and get me out faster.
Was told that more than 2 amps would just heat up the battery and make me need to open the fill caps.
Auto stop start AND remote start were inoperative for five days.
This peak charge I did the day of service did not help because I did not reset anything or let it sit over night. But I did ground to the chassis ground so so much for the system knowing the battery charge level like in the OP’s video.
My battery tested 99% and the system showed no codes.
Ford said my battery was fine.
The service writer told me I already had an AGM. I walked his smart ass attitude over to the hood, opened it and pointed at the words ON the battery that said,
Lead Acid Battery.
I said I think I need the service manager, he said he’s out back and tied up all day. I answered no, he’s not. He’s right behind you listening to us. He walked away.
I persisted and had to threaten a call to corporate to get a new battery.
The service manager gave in and through some childish drama on his part tried to make me think he was buying me a new battery out of his pocket.
I managed not to laugh at him.
This is the first time in several decades of using Ford service centers that the situation was handled in such a poor unprofessional manor.
Anyways,
New battery goes in,
No idea if they reset the system.
At the stop sign leaving the dealer my auto stop start was functioning again and remote start worked the next morning.
Imagine that !
I must stress this !
Ford dealer diagnostics showed my 23 month old factory battery was at 99% what ever that was suppose to mean but my non critical systems were offline.
I told them this and the answer was, it showed no codes so there’s nothing we can do.
I replied No Sir, Not good enough.
The New off the shelf Motor craft Lead Acid made every thing go back to normal.
When this battery goes I’m putting in the biggest capacity AGM that will fit.
FWIW, my average round trip drive is about 35 miles, about 17 in then work all day then home say four or five days a week.
I need enough battery to keep me going through two days of no use.
I need a bigger capacity or,
A solar trickle charger wired in 24/7 to compensate the drain down somewhat. With a cut off diode of course, would that work ?
I am trying to find the time to meet with the dealer Owner and tell him about all this and how never in my multiple decades of dealing with Ford service centers have I been fed so much bullshit
And all this over a battery in a still under factory warranty vehicle I purchased new. And from his dealership.
Ok I’m done.
 
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Osco

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If I have to feed my Bronco Sport a new battery every two or three years that’s perfectly fine with me.
Operational costs like oil changes no big deal.
My next battery in likely less than two years will be the biggest capacity and best AGM I can find.
IDC if it’s $250
My BS is great, I will feed it well ;’P
 

Major Kong

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battery management
or
populace management
faint whiff of social engineering present under the hood
"we'll just get them used to the idea of plugging in a vehicle"
ICE gets iced
EV's will unknowingly become part of the consumer psyche

 

 
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