Curt Trailer Wiring vs Ford OEM

TNFurb

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My BS did not come with the factory installed trailer package. So I’ve done the research on what hitch I want to install. Now I’m trying to decide whether to buy the Ford OEM trailer wiring kit or the Curt trailer wiring kit. Any opinions on the pros and cons of each? The Curt looks much easier to install to me but am I giving up anything vs using the Ford OEM kit? eTrailer also has a Tekonsha kit in case anyone thinks that is a better choice for some reason too.
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wireman

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Both Curt & Tekonsha are quality products. As long as they are plug & play, either should do.

Not familiar with the Ford kit. my BL had the factory hitch.
 

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I’ve used the Curt kits over the years. You still will need to route a wire to the front to power the converter box. The lights are easy. Just make sure the ground is to a true chassis ground. Not sure which Ford kit you are looking at. Some will provide all the benefits of the OEM installation including sway control and shutting off blis when a trailer is connected.
 
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So you think the trailer sway control is also tied to the Ford OEM wiring? On my infotainment screen I see the setting to be able to turn sway control on and off. So I was hoping that meant it is truly a software+sensor thing and it would still work even with the Curt wiring.
 

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Just FYI -- I used to be a fan of E-Trailer, until...

A few years ago, we purchased a Curt wiring harness from them to connect our '97 RAV4 to a landscaping trailer that we bought at Tractor Supply. It is the type of harness that converts from separate (amber) turn signals to the common combination brake/tail lights on the trailer.

It was intermittent. I did some troubleshooting with my Fluke meter and a 12 volt power supply. The lights on the trailer were good. However, the output of the wiring harness for L/R turn signals was weak.

E-Trailer was no help. In fact, they were argumentative -- like I was ruining their day. They tried to blame the trailer wiring and/or lamps -- even after I explained that when 12V is applied to each pin they light up steady and bright. Then they tried to blame the RAV. I told them the battery was good (12.7V.) and the alternator was putting out ~14.2V

Out of excuses they told me to pound sand.

The true test of a company is how they respond when a customer has a legitimate concern/question/complaint.

I'm not necessarily saying no one should do business with E-Trailer -- other companies may be the same or worse -- but buyer beware.

If it isn't much more, I'd be inclined to get the Ford harness.
 


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Just FYI -- I used to be a fan of E-Trailer, until...

A few years ago, we purchased a Curt wiring harness from them to connect our '97 RAV4 to a landscaping trailer that we bought at Tractor Supply. It is the type of harness that converts from separate (amber) turn signals to the common combination brake/tail lights on the trailer.

It was intermittent. I did some troubleshooting with my Fluke meter and a 12 volt power supply. The lights on the trailer were good. However, the output of the wiring harness for L/R turn signals was weak.

E-Trailer was no help. In fact, they were argumentative -- like I was ruining their day. They tried to blame the trailer wiring and/or lamps -- even after I explained that when 12V is applied to each pin they light up steady and bright. Then they tried to blame the RAV. I told them the battery was good (12.7V.) and the alternator was putting out ~14.2V

Out of excuses they told me to pound sand.

The true test of a company is how they respond when a customer has a legitimate concern/question/complaint.

I'm not necessarily saying no one should do business with E-Trailer -- other companies may be the same or worse -- but buyer beware.

If it isn't much more, I'd be inclined to get the Ford harness.
thanks for the response. The instructions I’ve seen for the ford harness looks much more involved. Including taking all kinds of interior trim pieces off to route wires to the back of the vehicle. That’s my main reason for considering Curt. Do you recall the brand of wiring harness you bought from eTrailer?
 

sajohnson

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thanks for the response. The instructions I’ve seen for the ford harness looks much more involved. Including taking all kinds of interior trim pieces off to route wires to the back of the vehicle. That’s my main reason for considering Curt. Do you recall the brand of wiring harness you bought from eTrailer?
The harness was made by Curt (or made for them in China...).

I suspect the fault was in the 'black box' that detects the vehicle's separate (amber) turn signal.

Good point about the Ford harness. I'm not a fan of removing interior panels either.

How much would it cost to have it installed by a shop that routinely removes interior panels, like an aftermarket stereo/camera place?
 
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The harness was made by Curt (or made for them in China...).

I suspect the fault was in the 'black box' that detects the vehicle's separate (amber) turn signal.

Good point about the Ford harness. I'm not a fan of removing interior panels either.

How much would it cost to have it installed by a shop that routinely removes interior panels, like an aftermarket stereo/camera place?
Good question. I haven’t looked into having a shop install the Ford harness
 

sajohnson

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Good question. I haven’t looked into having a shop install the Ford harness
It might be worth checking -- it's all but guarantied they will be less than a dealership.

Also, the Ford harness might be better quality -- have larger gauge wires, etc.
 

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Had my Curt hitch and wiring done at a shop. I forget which harness my guy used but he preferred the other one than what I had originally ordered. We were able to switch it out and he told me it was a plug and play style to make it faster install. I wouldn’t think OEM would make much difference. IMO
 


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These boxes are the Achilles heels of the add on wiring. That being said, keep them dry and grounded well and it will be fine. They will not allow you to turn on sway control.
 

sajohnson

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Had my Curt hitch and wiring done at a shop. I forget which harness my guy used but he preferred the other one than what I had originally ordered. We were able to switch it out and he told me it was a plug and play style to make it faster install. I wouldn’t think OEM would make much difference. IMO
The Curt harness for our RAV4 used OEM style connectors also, which made the installation easier, and electrically fool-proof.

We did have to remove a couple panels in the rear, and the space to work was very tight. That was the difficult part, and made it more aggravating when it did not work properly. If the connectors were exposed (which obviously they wouldn't be) and it was a simple matter of unplugging and inserting terminals, that would be no big deal.

My advice to anyone installing hitch wiring is to confirm it works before reinstalling all of the interior panels and pieces.
 

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These boxes are the Achilles heels of the add on wiring. That being said, keep them dry and grounded well and it will be fine. They will not allow you to turn on sway control.
Do you happen to know if using the oem wiring kit will allow for the sway control to be turned on?
 

Escape2Bronco

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Do you happen to know if using the oem wiring kit will allow for the sway control to be turned on?
That has to be done by your dealer or forscan but yes, I believe having the factory installed wiring harness will give you the option for sway control and blis disable one enable by forscan or your dealer.
 

sonarman726

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I put a aftermarket hitch but haven't wired it yet. I'll have U-Haul install their wiring harness when I'm ready. I've done that on several other cars I own and they do a great job. There are several threads related to the factory wiring. it's too bad Ford doesn't do what Nissan and others do where the wiring is present and you just plug an adapter in. From what I saw it's a nightmare to install their wiring- it's been posted on here and reddit so search around and you'll find others that have attempted it.
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