Charge System Service NOW

[grand_larseny]

My 2021 Outer Banks was just in to the dealership due to overheating. They thought it would be the water pump but turned out to be something else, thermal panel or something of the likes? A week later my “Charging System Service Now” light came on. Dealership ran for codes and nothing popped up so I was told to continue to drive it. Coming off the freeway later in the day a ton of warnings started popping up and my car died. Towed back to the dealership. After almost a week and a new battery the problem was supposedly fixed. I went back to pick it up tonight and the light came right back on. I’m wondering if it’s the alternator or if they didn’t perform a reset after the new battery install. Seems like they would have checked the alternator already but what else should I have the dealership take a look for? I was hoping it was an easy fix like something was knocked loose the week prior when the other repair took place.

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[Chiefthepup]

I know it’s said all the time but check your grounds. These newer vehicles are extremely touchy and if even a slightly loose ground alters what the computer deems normal it’ll throw codes

 

[grand_larseny]

I know it’s said all the time but check your grounds. These newer vehicles are extremely touchy and if even a slightly loose ground alters what the computer deems normal it’ll throw codes

Sorry, that was a vague answer. When they removed the water pump it was in good shape and it was the thermostat that needed replacing. So they removed the pump to access the thermostat housing. Tbh I'm kind of pissed thinking that they knocked something loose when they were replacing the part a few weeks back and that's led to whatever is going on currently. The battery was under a recall warranty a few months back but tested fine so was not replaced. When I got my $800 bill last night I refused to pay for the battery because it would have been covered a few months ago yet their shop told me it was in tip top shape. I was able to get him to take the battery cost off and bring me to $480. I'm just hoping it isn't the alternator. As a parent of young kids going into the holidays I'm not going to have $2,500 to fix that but at the same time I need the car because I've got kids to drive around.

I'll mention the grounds when I call back, I also found an article specific to 2021 models mentioning condensation in the C202 will throw this code. The dealership guy is a jerk and hasn't apologized once. I'd expect a sorry for telling me my car was safe to drive on Halloween knowing I was taking my kids out, then it dies on the side of the road that same day. Hopefully it's a quick and cheap (free) fix. Thanks for your advice!

 

[Dude]

Sorry, that was a vague answer. When they removed the water pump it was in good shape and it was the thermostat that needed replacing. So they removed the pump to access the thermostat housing. Tbh I'm kind of pissed thinking that they knocked something loose when they were replacing the part a few weeks back and that's led to whatever is going on currently. The battery was under a recall warranty a few months back but tested fine so was not replaced. When I got my $800 bill last night I refused to pay for the battery because it would have been covered a few months ago yet their shop told me it was in tip top shape. I was able to get him to take the battery cost off and bring me to $480. I'm just hoping it isn't the alternator. As a parent of young kids going into the holidays I'm not going to have $2,500 to fix that but at the same time I need the car because I've got kids to drive around.

I'll mention the grounds when I call back, I also found an article specific to 2021 models mentioning condensation in the C202 will throw this code. The dealership guy is a jerk and hasn't apologized once. I'd expect a sorry for telling me my car was safe to drive on Halloween knowing I was taking my kids out, then it dies on the side of the road that same day. Hopefully it's a quick and cheap (free) fix. Thanks for your advice!

Specifically have the dealership properly tighten:

1. Red/positive 12V battery terminal
2. Black/negative 12V battery terminal
3. battery ground connection on the drivers side fender bolt mount which is a known issue for some ‘21-‘24 Bronco Sports - this is the ground that goes from the fender point directly to the 12V battery (I haven’t looked yet at 2025s)

 

[grand_larseny]

Specifically have the dealership properly tighten:

1. Red/positive 12V battery terminal
2. Black/negative 12V battery terminal
3. battery ground connection on the drivers side fender bolt mount which is a known issue for some ‘21-‘24 Bronco Sports - this the ground that goes from the fender point directly to the 12V battery (I haven’t looked yet at 2025s)

Thanks for the tips. I called an left a list of recommendations I'd gotten for fixes to common issues with the 2021 models. Apparently now it's the alternator which I was dreading. Guess it'll be sitting at the dealership until I can come up with the cash to fix it.

Are we just going to continually have issues and recalls with these 2021 Bronco Sports? If I'd have known how unreliable this car was going to be after less than a year and a half of ownership then I never would have gone this route.

Thinking I should just trade it in for something more reliable at this point.

 

[rugedraw]

$2,500 for an alternator? I think it is time you have an independent shop look at it. You can get a non-OEM alternator on ebay for $250. The alternator on the 1.5L is very easy to get to and swap out.

 

[RSH]

Unfortunately if the Op's Sport is at Ford to be repaired, you end up paying full retail for parts.​

If the Op's Sport has the speacial alternator with the 110 volt output they cost more than the standard type, at one time the retail price was over $1100 dollars.​

​

For dealer labor, cost is based on book time.​

For example if the book says 4 hours to R&R the alternator that's what you'll pay even if the mechanic can get it done in an hour.​

It will be interesting if the Op updates this thread.​

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