21' Badlands check engine light (codes 0456 & 0496)

Bluewatergirl

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Read all the prior threads but still a little frustrated as this appears to be common occurrence on a number of forums, reddit, etc. - my CIL came on the day after an oil change @ 36,400 miles and Ford was like sure bring it in for a $200 diagnostic. So I decided to hold off as the CIL went off, then it came on for about 4 days, then off, then came on and has stayed on. Got gas one day (no I do not overfill my tank) and when I attempted to start the car it would not start after the second time it finally started. Ford mobile came out for for recall stuff and looked into codes and no start issue - said it was the fuel neck/cover so he cleared the codes and they came back on after the second start the next day. Called tech who now said it is more than likely a "faulty purge valve" and that this is not covered under any warranty and will cost $600-1000. Any other suggestions?
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Google netted this:

If there was a P0456 and you cleaned the filler neck and now there is a P0496, usually these 2 codes are caused by the canister purge valve not sealing. Usually when the filler flap is not sealing it causes a P0457.Apr 15, 2024

The tech would be correct. You could try cleaning the filler neck; how this is done? See if a Google search nets you an answer.
 

Ford Motor Company

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Read all the prior threads but still a little frustrated as this appears to be common occurrence on a number of forums, reddit, etc. - my CIL came on the day after an oil change @ 36,400 miles and Ford was like sure bring it in for a $200 diagnostic. So I decided to hold off as the CIL went off, then it came on for about 4 days, then off, then came on and has stayed on. Got gas one day (no I do not overfill my tank) and when I attempted to start the car it would not start after the second time it finally started. Ford mobile came out for for recall stuff and looked into codes and no start issue - said it was the fuel neck/cover so he cleared the codes and they came back on after the second start the next day. Called tech who now said it is more than likely a "faulty purge valve" and that this is not covered under any warranty and will cost $600-1000. Any other suggestions?
Good afternoon. Can you please send over a message with your VIN and the name/location of the Ford dealer you have been working with? I would like to take a closer look at your engine concerns on my end.
 
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gatornek

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the purge valve is a $50 DIY easy replacement. You can also easily disconnect it at idle, to see if it is stuck open, to see if its actually the culprit of the CEL.

I had two fail on my Mustang. Thank God its easy and cheap, like I noted.
 

Mark S.

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EVAP system (which includes the purge valve) is covered for the first 24K/2yrs.
 


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Bluewatergirl

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Google netted this:

If there was a P0456 and you cleaned the filler neck and now there is a P0496, usually these 2 codes are caused by the canister purge valve not sealing. Usually when the filler flap is not sealing it causes a P0457.Apr 15, 2024

The tech would be correct. You could try cleaning the filler neck; how this is done? See if a Google search nets you an answer.
the purge valve is a $50 DIY easy replacement. You can also easily disconnect it at idle, to see if it is stuck open, to see if its actually the culprit of the CEL.

I had two fail on my Mustang. Thank God its easy and cheap, like I noted.
I don't think $600-1000 is cheap which is what the dealer quoted and online the cheapest is $400.
 

gatornek

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I don't think $600-1000 is cheap which is what the dealer quoted and online the cheapest is $400.
Mam, I'm not sure what this response is supposed to mean, but if you came here, I imagine you are looking for help and guidance, and are HOPEFULLY trying not to pay exorbitant service fees, which may or may NOT be the possible case for you right now.

The first thing you have to figure out is if this an EVAP purge valve being stuck open. This is an EASY check for anyone who has a remote clue. If you don't hae a remote clue, then you need to speak with someone that does personally, or pay very close attention to what we are telling you. Up to you. Now, here is a video on how to check your purge valve being stuck open. I don't know if its a Ford, and I'm sure it isn't a Bronco Sport, but the concept reminas the same. There is a hose that runs to the valve (usually coming from the gas tank). The engine uses gas tank fumes at ignition in order to get the engine cranked and going. They come in throught that hose. Aftr the engine is running, it no longer needs these fumes, and that's where the "valve" comes in. The valve is supposed to close at idle. Essentially, disconnect the hose while your engine is running and hold your finger over the valve to see if you feel a vaccuum. If you feel a vaccuum the valve is stuck open, and essentially "BROKEN"




If the valve is stuck open, I don't have the part number handy, but its an easy find. And I can assure you, you can find it for less than $100 with taxes and shipping and everything.

If there is NO vaccuum while you hold your finger over the valve at idle, then there is a deeper problem going on and I would suggest for you to go to at least TWO service facilities for quote nad diagnostic.

So again. Up to you on whether you want to make your post here a simple "venting" session where you're just going to end up ponying up the money and comlaining about it the whole way. Orrrrrr... you can be proactive. Up to you.
 
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gatornek

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EVAP system (which includes the purge valve) is covered for the first 24K/2yrs.
Is the purge valve not covered under the 3 year bumper to bumper?? 🤔
 

Milehifireguy

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I don't think $600-1000 is cheap which is what the dealer quoted and online the cheapest is $400.
He was saying a DIY fix is easy and cheap. I’ve done several small fixes like this for my daughter’s vehicle and saved $$$ every time. Try looking into how to do it yourself and you may be surprised at how simple it can be. If you have questions or need specific tools you don’t already have the folks at most auto parts stores are super helpful and usually have loaner tools to use and advise on the repair itself.
 

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gatornek

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Apparently not

Mark S said back in post #5
EVAP system (which includes the purge valve) is covered for the first 24K/2yrs.

https://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2022_Ford_Gas_Hybrid-WG_V7_10.31.22.pdf
Which is why I specifically responded with a question to him on that same post you are highlighting. Thanks for the link. See page 23.👇

The warranty coverage period for: • The emissions defects warranty coverage period for passenger cars and light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up through 8,500 pounds GVWR) is as follows: — 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic converters, electronic emissions control unit, and onboard emissions diagnostic devices, including the battery energy control module (BECM), and emission-related reprogramming of modules. — 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other covered parts. (Note: Ford’s 3-year, 36,000-mile bumper-to-bumper coverage, as described above, surpasses this mandatory federal coverage).

.I read this as the EVAP valve being covered for 3 years.
 

gatornek

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The EVAP valve I suppose is considered a DEFECT warranty, which has the superceding disclaimer. The PERFORMANCE warranty does not have the same superceding disclaimer about the factory bumper to bumper
Ford Bronco Sport 21' Badlands check engine light (codes 0456 & 0496) 1718125598537-p7



Ford Bronco Sport 21' Badlands check engine light (codes 0456 & 0496) 1718125863337-s0



Ford Bronco Sport 21' Badlands check engine light (codes 0456 & 0496) 1718125826251-pc
 

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Which is why I specifically responded with a question to him on that same post you are highlighting. Thanks for the link. See page 23.👇

The warranty coverage period for: • The emissions defects warranty coverage period for passenger cars and light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up through 8,500 pounds GVWR) is as follows: — 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic converters, electronic emissions control unit, and onboard emissions diagnostic devices, including the battery energy control module (BECM), and emission-related reprogramming of modules. — 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other covered parts. (Note: Ford’s 3-year, 36,000-mile bumper-to-bumper coverage, as described above, surpasses this mandatory federal coverage).

.I read this as the EVAP valve being covered for 3 years.
Have to look at the table later on in the warranty which lists the parts specifically covered and the others fall into that 2yr/24 months that mark stated

he has owned fords forever and maybe is stating from experience 😉
 

gatornek

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Have to look at the table later on in the warranty which lists the parts specifically covered and the others fall into that 2yr/24 months that mark stated

he has owned fords forever and maybe is stating from experience 😉
lol. I didn't know you were Mark's 'hype-man'. I posted the table in my previous post. I've owned Ford's too. If you've been following along to the rest of this thread, you should also know that I've replaced my EVAP purge valve TWICE on m Mustang. The first time it was on Ford's dime. Now, I can't say with absolute certainty that it was outside of 24K miles, but I feel like it was. So this is where "my experience" may have conflicted with "his experience" and I was asking him to clarify.

But again, I do appreciate the link and also the insight that Mark knows his stuff. 👍 I agree on that.
 
 




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