As soon as I can find one to rip out of a crashed 2025 or something I’ve done a lot of looking at the diagrams, these should bolt right up to the previous generation
Those are snazzy! Pro tip for the front tie down (until I get my hands on the new fold out parts): get some kayak tie down hood straps, there’s a nice bolt under the hood on each side that’s perfect for it. You can fold them out when you need them and tie down without rubbing on the front bumper...
Unfortunately even with the new crash bar I think it will still totally depend on if the 2025’s ALL have the welded tow hook support bracket or not since that’s where it’s getting its strength
also unfortunately the crash bar is a pain in the butt to remove it looks like, I’m pretty sure the...
Interesting! A few notes, I went down a rabbit hole the other month looking at possibilities for winch mounting so I’m very familiar with the front end geometry
On the previous gen that entire front crash bar (blue large piece) is/was aluminum. Obviously not strong enough on its own. It bolts...
I feel like if they’d made rigidity improvements to the body they’d have included it in the highlighted changes, as far as I’m aware it’s the same frame/unibody
Yep, that’s what I’m working with. Like like it’s up to 2700 now; still not a ton, but in the smaller boat segment it’s just enough for me to care
Anyone happen to know what gives the 25 SAS its higher than normal tow rating compared to the first gen? I feel like I remember reading about an upgraded cooler but I can’t seem to find a source on that
It’s a pretty similar engine and the transmission is mostly the same; is it the suspension...
I’d agree with the potential range justification except after cutting literally everything that could possibly be cut in the electronics department it still only has a pathetic 150 miles of range. Would it have killed them to keep in speakers? Again, 20 thousand dollars
I might be missing something…..but why are like 90% of the accessories shown tailored towards “offroad” when this thing is only offered in FWD with literally nothing else that that would equip this thing go off the pavement?
Does it not also seem stupid expensive to anyone else? Even if it hit...
Oh yea I’m with you! I just wish they would replace that damn hose so we could tell if it’s the problem, they already have the bumper off and it’s a like 30$ part
lol, they replaced basically everything except Washer Hose - Ford (M1PZ-17A605-D) it looks like, unless 605 is a sub code of one of those. I’m 99% certain that line where the problem is, and why a 2$ part fixed this in my write up
Something like the Winch2Go could be an interesting alternative; set an Anderson connector in the front bumper, hook it to the front tow hooks, and bobs your uncle. This particular one is only rated for 4000lbs so you’d need a snatch block, but I don’t don’t see why making your own would be that...
I know if you get a nice brand they’re a great tool that almost certainly won’t have any issues, and there are tons of upsides for being able to recover from multiple directions, but standing next to a line under tension makes me itchy. Especially if it’s ME adding the tension
That one is just slapped on the bull bar if I recall them talking another the build; even if it was functional that bar is not even close to structurally rated for where it bolts up. The only bull bar I’ve seen actually recovery rated is the FordRangerLifts one